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Vac-Master 5O Http://www.makelure.com/store/p/1056-Vac-Master-50.aspx

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Well I pick-up the vac-50, here is my quick report

 

1 pain in the ass to get mixed well and get clump's out, before mixing the parts together..

2. mixing together was easy

3. poured into mold box let set for two hours, demolded back side, mixed another batch and pored into the second part..

4. after waithing overnight I opened up mold, WOW worked great, few little flaws in in the pour, but this stuff is sandable , and seems like soft aluminium.. drilled out my pour hole , and poured my fist 8 inch Muskie lure, all I can say is very impressed with my first effort..

5, does as advertised, cannot beat the price,, I will be using again,

6, I am using soft plastics , plastisol..heat was fine!!!

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I have actually used Solarez to make molds of ribbed plastics that are out of production.  Resin flows really well, and you can see the details being filled, since it is clear.  It is great for duplicating elaborate details.

Plus, because it is clear, you can drill vent holes after the resin is hard, because you can actually see the appendages through the resin.

Edited by mark poulson
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I have learned how to make 2-part injection molds with Resin. It is tedioues, but results are good (as good as your master) and much cheaper than this product.

Would you give a tutorial on how you made your two piece resin molds? Also which kind of resin, bondo?

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Thats pure genius Mark. never thought of using solarez for molds. I wonder if it could be used to make molds for Smooth on resins?

Do you just paint it over the soft plastic original?

Can a two part mold be made?

 

Jdeee,

I glued the soft plastic masters down onto a piece of plexiglass, coated the plexi around the masters with vaseline as a release agent, painted the resin into the details as much as I could without moving them, and then poured the rest over them, until I had 1/8" over the highest spots.  The resin is strong enough so the thinner parts aren't weak.

I let it sit in the sunshine for an hour, and it was hard.  How fast it sets depends on the UV rating that day, and how thick the pour is.

After it set, I removed it from the plexi with a putty knife, slowly, so I didn't damage the resin.  I wasn't sure how strong it was at that point, but, it turned out, it was plenty strong.

The soft plastic masters came out mostly, except some flippers which were fully embedded broke off.  After I used some tweezers to remove as much as I could, I drilled 1/16" vent holes down from the top into the flipper cavities, and used my compressed air hose to blow out the rest of the plastic.

Before I tried pouring the mold, I sprayed PAM into it as a release agent.  It poured fine, and the baits came out in one piece, as long as I took my time.

I decided to make it an injection mold, so I drilled and tapped holes through the original plexi and the mold itself, and attached the plexi as a mold top.  

I drilled injection holes down through the plexi over the fattest part of the mold, glued some 1/2" nuts I had onto the injection hole, to act as sprue extenders, and it injects just fine.

Edited by mark poulson
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Thanks Mark

I am going to give a 2 part mold a try using solarez. I will try to see if I can do one half in plaster of Pari s and then solarez and after it hardens chip away the plaster from the master and then cover with Vaseline and do the other side with with solarez. If that works I want to try using it also on foams and other hard curing resins as I find that molds made of silicone expand with foams and doesn't give exact copies every time.

Edited by Jdeee
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