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LaPala

Trash an idea out with U guys?

13 posts in this topic

Hi guy,

I was so inspired by all the fantastic lures you guys produce and I just have to try out some ideas and make a lure as realistic as possible.

I was thinking about what u guys did with decal paper and printed real image. I've always wanted fins on my lures and I can't cast soft-plastic plus it's not durable enough for me. :idea: Now if I print my fins on tranparencies (the plastics sheets used on over-head projectors) glue it on the crankbait then coat it with Devcon or E-tex; you guy think it'll outlast soft plastic? Or are there any other hard coats I can try?

And what do you think of the lure design below? It's suppose to be 8cm X 1.9cm (without tail fin), 1cm on the fattest part. I'd like to make 2 versions, 1) 5-6 ft swimming depth; 2) 10ft swimming depth. Any advice on where to put the line ties; lip shape & placement? Hope to get it to swim like a Rapala Shadrap type tight action. Getting it snag proof would be a bonus :) .

Thanks guys.

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Hey LaPala,

Here's a link to plasti-dip:

http://www.plastidip.com/consumer/index.html

I've not thought of using it for molded fins. Good idear TM ;)

I'm not sure how you could attach them to the lure body and keep the finish water proof. Perhaps have wires protrude from the pectoral mounts... after you have the lure finished and topcoated you could superglue the fin on the wire. Avoid getting glue on the finbase to keep it from scortching the epoxy.

I wouldn't recommend a tall verticle dorsal fin unless you make the lure jointed.

A one piece mold might be the best way to cast the fins. The plastic cures as the ethyl in it evaporates.

Tight lines,

Shawn

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I suggest pouring a thin layer of the plasticote and letting it dry then just cutting out the shapes you want. Also I think the lure would be cooler jointed, not sure though mabey it would be too hard?

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That's cool Shawn, TM.

I'll look around and see if I can find a supplier in my part of the world. I notice from the link to plastidip there's a spray-can type, perhaps I can print the fins out in tranperancies, spray coat it, then cut/drill slots to insert the fins. :)

TM: I'll try jointed after I've got the 1 piece to work.

Thanks guys.

PS: Was just reading the product FAQ and it seem this stuff dries to a satin finish... would this be clear enough for printing to show thru? BTW The brochure recommends 3-4 spay coats; maybe more if I want a little more bulk to the fins.

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If you want to make it snag proof just cut the bottom hook off the trebel hook so it only a double thats what I do it will get alot less snags. Other than that it will be hard because tight actions get snagged very easy I would suggest a square lip like the bagleys Balsa B's.

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TM:

Thanks for suggestion. or maybe straightening & shorten the bottom hook like the attached (concept) pic might make it act like a weed/snag-bouncing guard? Or even use those jewelery magnets as little weights at the bottom to hold the hooks to the body. Anyone tried it b4? Will it work? How much does a dangling/swing hook below a crankbait affect its action?

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TM: Oh I meant "swinging" - a treble that is free-moving (within the confines of it's attachment point); compared to one which is temperarily held in-place by a magnet to the crankbait's body (thus immobile until a fish strikes it - at least theoratically for now :) ).

I was thinking:

1. treble "free-moving" - normal attachment method

2. treble "magneted" to lure body.

1 & 2 would have different centre of gravity - all other variable assumed to be the same.

So case 1:

a. Lure stationnary, treble hanging down - lowered centre of gravity because of weigth of treble is lower.

b. Lure while being retrived, treble will swing backward and move side to side too - maybe help in creating lure action by varying centre of gravity?

And for case 2:

treble is "magneted" to body of lure so centre of gravity is more or less "fixed" - will this make the lure action more "dampened"/less effective?

:oops: I sure talk a lot to make a simple point. :oops:

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Sounds cool but i think you would need an aful strong magnet to hold the hook when reeling the bait fast underwater :? Not really sure :huh:

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Neodymium are the most powerful magnets available. They are quite pricey however you can find them in old hard drives.

Shawn

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Guys, I'm thinking of going cheap :wink: . Seen some itsy bitsy magnets from China sold as clasps for bead necklesses. I can maybe fit 3 in-line to a hook (gotta make sure the polarity is right though). I'll go get some & try it out on my "pirated" SFR, these magnets are so small I don't think the extra weight will make a diff in a SFR (could just make it rise slower). I'll let you guys know once I've tried it out.

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