Clear Coating A Multiple Jointed Swim Bait

[wickedmega]

I have these 4 inch multiple jointed swim bait blanks(see pic).

 

I custom paint them.That's the easy part.But when it's time to apply my 2 part epoxy(even with a very small brush)the clear gets in between the joints rendering the bait useless even before it's dry!

 

I was looking for any techniques i could use to make the clearing part(the most important part)be 100 % successful.I need my lures to be "flawless"!

 

Any help on this would be of Great Appreciation!!!!!

 

Thank You!  : )

[Anglinarcher]

I sure don't have a foolproof method, but ...... I clear coat the sections individually and join it once cured.  I then touch up the joints with any paint and clear coat.

 

I know of no other way to get a foolproof result, and I have sure tried everything I could think of.  Good luck.

[wickedmega]

I sure don't have a foolproof method, but ...... I clear coat the sections individually and join it once cured.  I then touch up the joints with any paint and clear coat.

 

I know of no other way to get a foolproof result, and I have sure tried everything I could think of.  Good luck.

Thank You,that would be great,but i don't make the blanks,they come already put together

[21xdc]

I wrap rubber bands around the joint until I get the coverage I want. Then still try and minimize the clear up to the rubber bands. Cut them off when dry. You may have a small amount of trimming clear off... Not bad though.

[wickedmega]

I wrap rubber bands around the joint until I get the coverage I want. Then still try and minimize the clear up to the rubber bands. Cut them off when dry. You may have a small amount of trimming clear off... Not bad though.

Not a bad idea,could be a possibility.Thank You for your suggestion.Going to hold off until i get more responses & ideas.

[BobP]

Frankly, I wouldn't topcoat a lure that has sharp edges with epoxy because it draws away from and thins out over any sharp edge while curing, leaving the edge very prone to quick wear and chipping.  I'd probably go with moisture cured urethane instead, but any clearcoat other than epoxy would be preferable in this case.  That said, if you are unable to disassemble the lure to topcoat every segment separately, I'd also recommend the rubber bands.  They will hold the segments immobile during topcoating and then can be easily removed afterward.  If any topcoat seeps past the bands, you can usually remove it with a Dremel tool with a micro drill bit or a piece of ss wire mounted in it.

[21xdc]

I'd buy a bag of white rubber bands at Walmart ... They are cheap and the size is perfect.

[MuskyGary]

Clearcoat the joints first with a brush, then dip the blank. Once they start to chip, from use, you may have to clearcoat again.

[mark poulson]

If I were only doing one, I'd tie it so it was bent in one direction.  Using an artists bristle brush, I'd brush my urethane or AC1315 onto the faces of the opened joints and a wider brush to coat the face of the lure toward me, let it dry/cure, and then bend it the other way and repeat the process.

That way I would have the most control over where the top coat goes.

[RiverMan]

Put rubber bands around it, spray with an auto clear. Done deal.

RM

[mohawkman]

Stay far away from auto clears.

[woodieb8]

automotive clear blowers system priceless.

[Seeking 56]

You don't mention the drying process, are you using a wheel or just hanging them?  I would put a very thin coat of clear and position it horizontally to dry, you may not even any drippings.

[old1ncal]

Here is what I do...takes some time to get it ready, but for me it works flawlessly.  Get some silicone mold making putty.  This is what I use. https://www.michaels.com/easymold-silicone-putty/10184918.html%C2'> You can work it with your fingers and it sheds clear coats once cured.   Mix well with your fingers, and press it lightly into the joints. You do have to reasonably careful not to get it past the center of the body.  I had a hard time with this at first.  What I ended up doing was using several tiny rubber bands (dental for braces) to "mask" the hinges. Then I pressed the compound into the joint and let it harden.  After cure, it pops out.  When clear coating, I place these "plugs" into the joint and hold them in place with 1 or 2 of the tiny rubber bands.  Like I said, it sheds any clear coat that I have used; they simply will not stick to it.  They are reusable and last for years.

[mark poulson]

Here is what I do...takes some time to get it ready, but for me it works flawlessly.  Get some silicone mold making putty.  This is what I use. You can work it with your fingers and it sheds clear coats once cured.   Mix well with your fingers, and press it lightly into the joints. You do have to reasonably careful not to get it past the center of the body.  I had a hard time with this at first.  What I ended up doing was using several tiny rubber bands (dental for braces) to "mask" the hinges. Then I pressed the compound into the joint and let it harden.  After cure, it pops out.  When clear coating, I place these "plugs" into the joint and hold them in place with 1 or 2 of the tiny rubber bands.  Like I said, it sheds any clear coat that I have used; they simply will not stick to it.  They are reusable and last for years.

 

What is the brand name of that silicone mold making putty, and where can I find some? 

[Vodkaman]

I think this is a great idea. Any type of rubber fill would do the job, even that bathroom sealant stuff. Possibly even a hard filler might work with suitable care.

 

Dave

[Mountain Man 26]

Mark, I use Alumiputty by Alumilite. You can get it from Hobbylobby. It's as simple a process as it gets. Roll 2 equal parts together till the white streaks are gone. It'll firm up in about 15 min.

[mark poulson]

Mark, I use Alumiputty by Alumilite. You can get it from Hobbylobby. It's as simple a process as it gets. Roll 2 equal parts together till the white streaks are gone. It'll firm up in about 15 min.

 

Thanks.

[old1ncal]

I use this: Amazing Mold Putty Kit, 2/3 lb.Item# 10410575   from Micheals

[Offshore G]

So as I understand it. You make a "solid" bait by filling the jointed sections with putty, rubber bands or even silicone. Then apply epoxy topcoat as normal? 

[old1ncal]

By inserting the silicone plugs into the joint, it makes them more or less rigid and unable to bend at the joint.  Plus the silicone that I use acts as a mask if you will to stop the clear coat from going into the joint and not "gumming up" the hinges.  The silicone in held in place by the orthodontic rubber bands over the top of the silicone.  They are reusable and since the are "molded" off an unpainted bait, the are a perfect fit for the same model time and time again.

[O'l Robzilla]

Just a thought. ... I haven't read all the replies, sorry. But have you thought to use the rubber bands to hold it open on the drying wheel yes.... but only do one side at a time. I know it's a longer process, but you can do the one side and when it's done clean up the excess waste off the joint and then do the second half. And when that side is done clean up the excess waste. I'd got lighter on the car coat if using appoxy in the middle section. Maybe use a little vasiline so it won't bond to the hardware in the middle. Hope this might be some help. Good luck and post pics! Zilla.

[RayburnGuy]

Apply liquid frisket (latex) to the joints and let it dry. Top coat your bait. Rub the liquid frisket off after the top coat cures.

 

Ben

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[wireslinger]

Where can I find the above swimbaits?