Seeking 56 Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 So, I'm close to completing my 16'' jointed Depthraider. All the parts have been cut and shaped. Now, the question remains, what do I use for a line tie? Would a .092'' eye screw hold in a 1/4'' lexan bill? I would like to make it as close as the original as possible without having to go thru wire. I was thinking about screwing it in at an angle to get more bite since the eye screws are not threaded all the way. If it's feasible, what drill bit size would you recommend? Thoughts? Thx s56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 I would love to see some pics posted here, also maybe a sketch of what you have in mind. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted August 31, 2015 Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 1/8th drill bit. as long as the threads are into the lexan theresNO way they will ever ever pull out.. the screws will bend or break first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seeking 56 Posted August 31, 2015 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2015 Hope this gives you a better idea compared to the original Dave. Essentially the eye screw would be positioned between the 2 marks if I go that route. I found some 3/4'' eye screws that are almost threaded to the top that may work if screwed in straight. The bottom of the 1/4'' lip has been shaved to match the one on the other lure. Woodie thanks for the input I gathered you tried it before? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 (edited) I would be using 1/16" diameter twisted brass. Because the eye passes through the lip, there is no pull-out forces on the eye wire, so the wire does not need to insert any deeper than the lip. All the eye forces are taken by the glued contact of the lip to the body. This is going to be an interesting study on proportions. You have accurately re-sized everything in proportion, but not everything is directly proportional. For example, everything that relates to volume, such as the final weight, ballast weight etc. The ratio will increase by the length proportion cubed. In this case the length proportion is from 8" to 16" = 2. The ballast = original x 2 cubed = 8x. Anything to do with area, the ratio is squared, so the amount of paint and top coat required will be 4x the original. The big question is, what about the lip, is it an area thing or is it a length thing. If it is area, then you have increased the area by 4x instead of the required 2x. Personally, I believe it is a lip length thing so you are good to go. Dave Edited September 1, 2015 by Vodkaman 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benton B Posted September 1, 2015 Report Share Posted September 1, 2015 I would use 18ga ss wire for the line tie, anchored in the bait under the lip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 (edited) I would go with an "Omega"-shaped , self centering line tie made of thick and rigid stainless wire ,....a "T"-shaped piece of sheet metal(brass , stainless steel) would do as well . I'm most confident , that the 1/4" polycarbonate would not snap nor would the groove through the lip fray to break open , ........needless to say ,that the lip requires not only to be glued in but also anchored by crosswise running wood screws or wire pins . Since straight linking does not work for me for some reason , please go to YouTube and enter video title "Self Centering Line Ties" into the search bar on top of entry page , .......my user name there is "61diemai" , ........sorry for inconvinience . For your 1/4" lip you might have to extend the upper portion of the slot through the lip somewhat like a funnel to achieve enough sideward play of the omega clip ,....... you might also place some kind of a "washer strip" of thin sheet metal underneath the lip for the omega clip to run through as well ,....this way you'd achieve even more stability of the line tie . In the video I'm mentioning little concerns about 3 mm polycarbonate , but 1/4" is twice as thick , so it should work out , ...at least I have far more confidence in an omega clip rather than a screw eye ancored into the polycarbonate . Good luck , Dieter Edited September 4, 2015 by diemai Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 ....one more thing , ......please also read my replies to comments to that video , some more info in there . Greetz , Dieter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
woodieb8 Posted September 4, 2015 Report Share Posted September 4, 2015 the major perceived issue is lip torque. the lip would have to be pinned/screwed for anchor. the 0.92 screws will hold,yes its been done before lol.. you could also . drill the lexan 1/16 bit use s/steel wire to the first hook hanga. pocket drill with a forstner bit . push wire thru lip into pocket. needle nose in the pocket a bend. pour lead into the hole. it will never move along with 2 s/s pins in the underside of the lip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seeking 56 Posted September 5, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 Very informative video Diemai thank you. You have inspired me to supersize a pikie minnow now that I've seen how you attach the twisted line tie to the bent lip. I decided to use .062'' wire for the line tie and notched a W at the back of the lip so it holds better. I will probably pin it with round head brass screws prior to clearing. I will be painting the lure soon. Notice how it's still rough? I will rattle can it and then wet sand it so that all the valleys and pits dissapear, then I will apply my pattern. No more sanding the wood body smooth lol! I used white cedar for this lure. I sealed it with West Sytem epoxy and went as far as thickening it with microfibers on the areas where it's going to be prone to hook rash. Overkill for cedar but what the heck! I'm not doubting the eye screw through the lexan or omega clip guys, but unless a stress test is conducted on these methods, I will continue to use the thru wire method as shown in the picture. Thank you all for your input. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
diemai Posted September 5, 2015 Report Share Posted September 5, 2015 @ Seeking 56 I'm quite fond of such Pikie-style lures , though I do not make accurate copies , I just find that distinctive "Z"-lip to have advantages in terms of casting distance(less air resistance compared to a lip protruding over he chin of a lure) and also reliability for such lures to swim well . Just recently I've put out another video containing two of such lures , but wired through for heavy duty , ...the underwater sequences clearly show the differences in swimming action between an elongated and a more compact lure body , both equipped with such "Pikie" lip . The video is titled "Underwater Lure Test August 2015" . I might try that tow eye anchoring method with that notched "W" as well , sounds appropriate to me for local pike , ........good luck , Dieter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
