ACarrell Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 I decided to try an idea I had for using cotter pins as screw eyes. They're super rugged, so they seem to lend themselves to lure making. Plus Home Depot carries an assortment of sizes and lengths in stainless steel for cheap. Anyway, I wanted to make them hold more firmly than just epoxying them in, so I bend the longer tab out at a 90 degree angle in my vice. Then I used a 1/8" spiral cut bit in my drill press and free-handed channels for the pins. Do this for both sides of the lure. Then you just epoxy them in place when you join the halves of the lure. The tabs being at 90 degrees adds protection against the pins pulling out, as they can't slip down the channel. Anyway, a picture is worth a thousand words, so ...... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
socal cranker Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Why not just build a thru-wire harness? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Because I wanted to try this .... It's more a "stronger alternative to screw eyes" than a "replacement for thru wire". Quite strong, and good for long baits that are more difficult to drill through if you don't have a lathe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 That will work very nicely - I like it. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Cotter pin usage comes up off an on over the years for crank construction. I think most don't use it based on the non traditional look. In regards to strength....for bass cranks the typical twisted wire never fail so hard to be a selling point. I never had a cotter pin (without bend) pull out a crank either but didn't make too many of them. If you build your baits in halves, as pictured, I would much rather use your set up for sure than twisting and bending an internal harness. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 It looks like it will work. I like it. Cost wise even at HD for cheap prices a wire form would still be a lot cheaper, but I'ld bet that it will take a lot more force for a total failure than a screw eye. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Yeah, it's easy to do, and for me is better in certain situations ... However, I'm new to making lures (though I've made guitars, furniture, etc for a long time), so maybe I'm just finding possible alternatives for "non-problems" ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
benton B Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 I've been using cotter pins for yrs without any problems. I use them in my ballast weight and for line tie in the bill. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 I'm new to making lures (though I've made guitars, furniture, etc for a long time), so maybe I'm just finding possible alternatives for "non-problems" ! I say keep searching. Being new to the game gives you an advantage, your mind is not bogged down with 'the way things are'. DAve Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 Benton - Great info, thanks! It's cool to know that maybe my Idea isn't too far off base! Vodkaman - thanks for the encouragement, I appreciate it! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seeking 56 Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 They are also used in Reef Hawgs and Suicks musky lures. I haven't heard of any that have failed as of yet. I'd be curious as to the action though, seems like they will add a lot of weight. s56 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 They do add weight, but you just account for it with wood and weight choice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 21, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 I've been looking around and it seems like any builders that use them just epoxy them in ... They aren't bending the pin and routing the "L" channel like I did. Perhaps I was making more work for myself than necessary? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted September 21, 2015 Report Share Posted September 21, 2015 I've been looking around and it seems like any builders that use them just epoxy them in ... They aren't bending the pin and routing the "L" channel like I did. Perhaps I was making more work for myself than necessary? When I used them for swimbait hook hangers and hinges, I would always spread the ends, to give the epoxy something to lock in. I was afraid the pins were too smooth and would work their way out eventually. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted September 22, 2015 Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 Most don't bend the ends, some may scuff the cotter pin with sandpaper but rarely bend. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 Thanks for the info, fellas ! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted September 22, 2015 Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 ACarrell - if you are looking for simpler; If I was using cotter pins, instead of bending 90 degrees, I would continue to almost 180 degrees, say 165. Drill a hole that was tight and push the pin into the hole full of epoxy. The bend would act as a non-return valve, preventing withdrawal. The stronger the withdrawal force, the more the valve would 'dig in'. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
no_connectivity Posted September 22, 2015 Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 I lock two of them together and use them as hinges for my swimbaits. They are strong, move freely, and smooth. Never had an issue 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 22, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 22, 2015 Vodkaman - great idea ! No Connectivity- interesting, I may have to look into that Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Musky Glenn Posted September 23, 2015 Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Suicks, which are great musky lures, runs the cotter pins all the way through from the bottom out the top and bends them over on the back of the lure. You can see half an inch of the ends of the on top of the lure. Paint right over them. They have sold a bunch of them like that. Musky Glenn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ACarrell Posted September 23, 2015 Author Report Share Posted September 23, 2015 Interesting.... I had just found out that Suick use cotter a, but wasn't sure how they implemented tgem Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
