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Problems With Silicone Mold?

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Well there may be some air introduced when mixing too. It can be somewhat stiff at time and if mixed without regard to introducing air you could make it worse. Like Dave said a thin coat on the master and let it cure them fill the rest of the mold. When you make another one take some time and cut the bad one apart and look at it to see if bubbles are there. I would bet there are.

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I have started looking for a vacuum setup, as I have a few applications for one; vacuum forming, vacuum molding experiments, plaster and RTV mixes, resins for casting and probably a few more that I cannot think of at the moment.

 

I have just designed all the panels for an electric vehicle to be vacuum formed. The customer wanted fiberglass, but I convinced them to go for the vacuum forming. The aluminium tools have been cut and the first panels have been formed and looking very good. Having convinced my customer to go vacuum, I should at least have a set-up myself.

 

Dave

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I haven't used silicone to create molds but I have read about /seen a few videos that say if silicone is not degassed before pouring it can be poured in a small stream from a slightly greater height to allow some volume of air to escape the silicon before it enters the mold.  Just beware of cross-winds.

 

On the other hand, the "bumpy" texture on the lure surface isn't necessarily a bad thing...

Who knows - the fish may even like it!

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The viscosity of the bad molds silicone was extreme compared to the good molds silicone. The good molds si cured hard but poured amazingly and visa versa for lure crafts. I need the extra flexibility so I bought more of the bad molds si ang have made me a vacuum chamber out of a 5 gallon bucket, lid, my vacuum, and a small sealed plexiglass window to watch my silicone to keep it from overflowing. Its pretty air tight. Can't wait to try it with my si.

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The viscosity of the bad molds silicone was extreme compared to the good molds silicone. The good molds si cured hard but poured amazingly and visa versa for lure crafts. I need the extra flexibility so I bought more of the bad molds si ang have made me a vacuum chamber out of a 5 gallon bucket, lid, my vacuum, and a small sealed plexiglass window to watch my silicone to keep it from overflowing. Its pretty air tight. Can't wait to try it with my si.

If you are saying you made your own chamber from a plastic bucket and it has a window made of sealed plexiglass please don't try it. If you are actually able to get a vacuum going you will probably have a catastrophic failure and you could be badly injured. Your home vacuum won't give you enough suction to do the job anyway, but if it does somehow you be seriously hurt. You can use a steel or aluminum pot with a thick (3/4") lid. Check out Best Value Vacs. Just be careful with making your own chamber. A failure can be live threatening.

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It seems to work okay without a sample of silicone inside. It sucks the lid down and the sides in a little bit. Seems to be just a little more than normal atmosphere. The lil window is only 2 inches and is bolted down with 8 bolts. It's thin and flexible plexiglass so I don't foresee it breaking. Just figured it'd help some with the bubbles better thannnnothing.

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A tad bit-o research revealed to me some stuff. I'll be getting a pressure cooker, some thick polycarbonate, and trinkets. Found a pump on harbor freight that supposedly pulls 28mg mercury so I'll be set up soon

Get one that goes above 29.4 and you will be set. For a vessel get a commercial cooking pot. Winco is one you should find a lot, in the three gallon range you will get a ten inch pot. These are the same ones from best value vacs would send you. Resturant supply houses have them. These pots are about 1/4 inch thick.

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Here is a parograph right from smooth on. It pretty clear how much vacumn is needed.

"For vacuuming silicone and urethane mold rubber or resins (urethane, epoxy, etc.) we can suggest the following minimum vacuum pump specifications; Rotary vane vacuum pump with a minimum airflow of 8 CFM (ft3/min) or 13.6 Cubic Meters/hour (m3/h).

Pump must pull 29 inches of mercury. If the pump does not pull 29 inches of mercury, you are wasting your money and time. "

I know these cost more.

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Now I remember, I built a vacuum box out of ply wood. It was only evacuated with my shop vac, but the effect/improvement was astonishing on my plaster test piece.

 

I say go ahead and do a test block; without vacuum and one with vacuum. Cut it up and see the difference. With the viscosity of liquid RTV, it won't be as dramatic as my plaster test, but it may be enough to clear the bubbles from the cavity surface.

 

Yes, the tanks are propane. They come in two sizes; 5Ltr and 15Ltr. The 15Ltr would be best, but I have a spare 5Ltr for testing first.

 

For your tests, implosion is a real danger. Shards of plastic can be very dangerous. So take all precautions and be aware of the power that you are playing with; heavy clothing,at least eye protection, full face would be better. Operate from behind a shield would be a very good cautionary measure.

 

DAve

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