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Skimpy

Making A Jig Mold

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i havnt tried it, so i cant say yay or nay... but silicone is a sure shot

 

however, im interested to find out......!

 

first issue is weather or not plaster can take the heat... id make a simple slab with a small hole in it, fill the hole with hot lead and see how it reacts... warping wont be an issue, but cracking might

 

if all is well there, then youre on a hunt for a sealer that can take the heat.... there was talk a while back about high temp floor wax for sealing plaster.. that might be worth a shot..... also worth trying, high temp spray paint, like the kind for bbq grills

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Silicone would be best.. Ive heard of guys doing it with bondo, but since bondo is a resin, warping is an issue.... And since plaster is held together with water, evaporation from the heat could lead to cracking over time.......... I was just hoping you would try it for me

Edited by JRammit
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Lol oh I'm still gonna try it !!!!!!!!!

Awesome!

Keep me posted!... Ive made quite a few DWP molds and prefer it over pop any day! (except for the price).... But im new to pouring lead... If yours works, ill have to try it too... I have a new bait in mind that i havnt had the courage to try making yet, cause its lead

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There is a high temperature RTV that suits the purpose I believe.

 

I have only used a bondo type material. It worked well, but it does soften after a few pours. This is not necessarily a huge disadvantage. If the mold halves are backed with plywood, you could carry on pouring. Alternatively, make lots of molds and cycle to allow cooling time.

 

I haven't tried plaster, but the temperature will have a reaction with the contact surface and cause it to crumble, so the life of the mold will be relatively short.

 

Which ever method or material you use, if you plan on thousands of pours, then you need to have a way of making more molds. Aluminium is the only mold material that is going to give long life.

 

Dave

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There is a high temperature RTV that suits the purpose I believe.

 

I have only used a bondo type material. It worked well, but it does soften after a few pours. This is not necessarily a huge disadvantage. If the mold halves are backed with plywood, you could carry on pouring. Alternatively, make lots of molds and cycle to allow cooling time.

 

I haven't tried plaster, but the temperature will have a reaction with the contact surface and cause it to crumble, so the life of the mold will be relatively short.

 

Which ever method or material you use, if you plan on thousands of pours, then you need to have a way of making more molds. Aluminium is the only mold material that is going to give long life.

 

Dave

 

I Dont plan on making 1000's but will def make a few of the molds to cycle. 

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Believe it or not, I sealed with Elmer's carpenter glue. 50/50 mix of water and glue.

guess that could work.. since most of it soaks in the plaster...... did you add any glue to the plaster mixture itself??...... just a thought, since the glue would not evaporate like the water

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Ive refered to DWP (durhams water puddy) as plaster many times before... Not to cause confusion, but they are both quite similar

Main differences are:

DWP mixes thicker and has more working time in its "thick state" before hardening.. And is a bit stronger once cured

Pop is cheaper, easier to find and less prone to bubbles.... But for me, it mixes too thin, then turns from "milk" to "rock" in seconds

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