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mark poulson

Modifying Molds With A Dremel

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I'd use a carbide endmill with a decent light cutting oil like Tap Magic for Aluminum or Tap Magic for All Metals., but they tend to grab and go when used in a hand tool.  

 

Depending on how large the cutter is slow may be the correct speed.  The smaller it is the faster you want to spin it, and the slower you want to feed it.  The rule of thumb is crank up the feed rate until you break some cutters, and then slow down.  At 10-15 for cheap 1/8 shank endmills and 15-30 for good ones you want to learn the right speed pretty quick.  Also, not the approach I would want to take with my hands near that cutter.  

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Thanks.

I was thinking more along the lines of the abrasive cut off wheels, but I am nervous about something that wide, thin, and brittle spinning that fast.

If I wind up doing it that way, I can see leather gloves and a face shield in my process.

 

The face shield or safety glasses a must for sure.  Several years ago I shattered one of those discs and put a shard in my cheek.  I was wearing safety glasses as they always during use pelt you with fines as the wheel wears.

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mark use wd-40 and spray it on the mold it wont let any aluminum stick to it/ or spary the cutting tool  ...a carbide burr and dermel  will work to by hand but your finish will be jumpy

 

I'd like to grind off some aluminum in a couple of my molds.

I tried the metal cutting bits, but they are very slow.

What bits would you guys recommend I use?

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