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Shane D

Foil Tape

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Hi everybody,

thanks JRammit for your kind quote.

Here you are the link to my Flash Pin Tail http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/gallery/image/14259-soft-reflections-mylar-insert/

As explicated in such 3D, it is really simple to obtain this effect: cut a pc. of holographic fly tying mylar pipe with a length of lure body, after that cut this pc. per its length  in two parts and glue each one inside each mould valve using a paper glue stick. In such way you will obtain a texture on the surface of lure sides similar to the fish scale. This is due the fact the mylar pipe is a net of mylar wires. Best thing is a second dipping in clear plastisol to give a little skin over mylar net and encapsulate the eyes.

After the realisation of my "creations" I discovered that exist a commercial soft shad made with same characteristic: Imakatsu Flash Needle Shad. The difference between it and the other mylar inserted soft lures is about the fact the net is immediately behind a thin layer of plastisol and not inside the body. Moreover you can use matt colours and not only transparent ones.

I realised another kind of flash shad, using holographic fly tying sheets with same technique:

2coo3z6.jpg

In this case I really copied the "bertox_natural_sardine" idea.  :P 

Bye.

 

Cami

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Dear All,

first of all thank you for your interest and ... I apologise for my poor English: now I understood that it is better to change the "mould valve" expression in "cavity".

 

Mark, the Pin Tail Shads come out from an aluminium two pieces mould per 4 different cavities, side injection. The Paddle Tail Shad is a "clone" of a commercial bait that I pour with an open one piece RTV silicone mould, which I realised in past. In such case I glue the pieces of mylar sheets inside the two vertical inner sides of mould. I make same thing with 3D eyes. The fixing of mylar sheet is stronger than eyes one and you could avoid the 2nd dip, instead for the 3D eyes is necessary: their fixing does not resist to hook.

 

Walleyeking, with paper glue stick I mean a paper glue like the Pritt Stick. I gently rub the pieces of mylar pipe or sheet over the glue stick and fix them on each body cavity of mould. With a 2 pieces mould this operation is quite simple; with a one piece open mould you can use little pliers.

Bye.

 

Cami

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My experience with mylar tubing (a friend tried some inside a tube he dipped in my garage) is that it makes the bait very tough, but still flexible.

I can see how adding it to the top of a swimbait might give the bait a much longer lifespan.

 

Cami, I really like the pearl bait at the bottom of your photo.  Which one is that?

Edited by mark poulson
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Dear All, it is a pleasure for me to share with you these little things.

 

Painter, this is the most important issue to have the right width to cover the body cavity height. For my moulds I use a mylar pipe Ø5 mm and FYI the biggest bait is 4' (10 cm), but for the little ones I will use mylar pipes Ø4 mm and Ø3 mm.

 

Shane D, I think that Mark is right when he says that a mylar pipe makes a tough bait, especially if it is round, yet. Two separated pieces of mylar net, positioned on the external sides of bait, permit to hook the bait without problem. I tried commercial Chinese little shad with an inner round mylar pipe and they are not reusable.

Perhaps for a thin tail the mylar sheet is more flexible.

 

Mark, the white pearl bait has been realised with mica powder. I think that you can find it in an Artist Store. Talking about insert, a friend of mine reinforces his poured Javalon including a pc. of box packaging plastic strip per its length. I have to suggest him to try with a strip of mylar net.

 

Bye.

 

Cami

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