Spire Point Jig Question

[Nightjack]

Hello all, great site.  Glad I found it, it's been very informative.

 

 

I recently picked up a Spire Point Do-it Mold , 16oz.  The way the jig works is that the hook eye is inside the mold when the lead is poured and becomes part of the jig.  I would like the hook to swing freely at the end of the jig.  I looked for some type of underspin and bought the only ones available that I have seen from Do-it, however, they are not the proper size. 

 

What's the best method to make one? I would imagine I should make some type of loop and get both ends that passed through the hook eye back into the mold?  Will this be strong enough to stop a big fish? (or bottom snag )  Anyone know what size wire is recommended, or have a link to a product that is specific to this mold?

 

If you haven't been able to tell, first timer.  Just learning to pour my own lead weights and jigs.  Super helpful info here, I read a lot of threads already and picked up a bunch of safety advice.  Thanks, John

[LimpNoodle]

Best bet would be to use some .062 wire.  Put a loop on each end.  The end going into the jig I would also bend the loop at say a 45° angle for additional holding power.

[LimpNoodle]

Should add one thing.  You're going to want that outside loop almost buried in the body of the jig.  If you've got the wire shaft sticking outside the body of the jig then you've got a failure point due to the wire bending back and forth on a big fish.

 

This means you're going to have to modify the mold so there's room for the loop.

 

You really might want to look at Shawn Collins' molds.  He may have what you're looking for.  In fact his Bel Mojo could be exactly what you're looking for.

 

http://shawncollinscustoms.net/jigs2.htm#BelJig

[Kasilofchrisn]

You really have 2 options.

An expensive custom mold such as a Shawn Collins mold that limpnoodle linked.

Or modifying your do-it mold.

The custom mold will run you over $100 for a single cavity or $200+ for a multicavity depending on sizes and number of cavities.

I have several of Shawn's molds and they are worth the money.

Modifying your do-it mold is best done with a dremel tool.

Buy some #3 long stainless steel eyes from Barlows for the 16oz mold.

I have gotten great service from Barlows.

Put an eyelet at the top and one where the hook normally comes out.

I've had people land 200#+ fish on jigs with just the #3 eyes in them.

Edited January 10, 2016 by Kasilofchrisn

[Nightjack]

Thanks for info from both posts.  Limpnoodle, I see what your saying by burying that wire into the mold.  Kasilofchrisn I have the #3 eyes and looked at that as an option but didn't think it would have the power to hold that much fish.  I'll have to look into this modification.

 

Follow up question,  can this mold be poured from a bottom pour unit? Or is 16oz just too much lead.  Better off with a ladel for faster pour?

[LimpNoodle]

The mold uses a #3 eye for the line tie.  

 

Can't say on the bottom pour as I've never gone that heavy.  

 

You'll need a HOT mold and a good pot to even attempt it.

 

No Lee pot would pour fast enough.

[Kasilofchrisn]

I make jigs up to 48oz and 16oz-24oz are pretty common for me.

The largest I would use a bottom pour on is ~3oz.

You need a ladle and pot that will allow you to do it all in one pour.

I like the Rowell brand of ladles from Rotometals.

Make sure your using the long eyes for maximum hold.

I prefer the stainless ones as I broke too many brass ones on small 15#-20# fish.

The fish just twisted the hook on the brass eyes till they broke.

[Nightjack]

I see now they sell the stainless in a long version, thanks for pointing me in the right direction.

[Nightjack]

I poured up some of the Spire Point Jigs.  I just used the mold as is for now and stuck the hook inside. I was actually pretty happy with them considering it was my first time pouring.  In addition I did a bunch of the Banana jigs I mentioned in the other thread and some bank sinkers.  Really fun. 

 

In terms of these Spire Point Jigs,  I'm now trying to identify the hair to use on them.  I would like something similar to what is used on a parachute jig.  Often times I have seen them tied on backward so the hairs open up.  This may not be necessary because I primarily will troll these as oppose to "jigging" or snapping them.  Either way can anyone point me towards an inexpensive product?  I have been checking the sights, but not sure on what I'm actually looking for.  I'm guessing the stuff used now a days is nylon?  Any recommendations appreciated, 

 

Thanks John

[LimpNoodle]

Fishair would be my guess.

[AKFerzy7]

Crimped nylon hair is what youre looking for.

http://www.whitestackle.com/terminal-tackle/rigging-materials/nylon-hair-crimped-8.html

[Nightjack]

I'll look into it thanks

[Nightjack]

I'm going to try and modify this spire point mold in the next couple of days to fit the #3 long stainless eye at the spot where the hook normally comes out.  I'll want to bury the eye into the mold as mentioned above.  If I use a dremel tool, should I only take away material from one side of the mold to fit the eye?  I'm thinking the same side as the line attachment eye? Will it be offset if I do this? I figured this would be an easier modification of the mold.

 

I did notice on another thread someone mentioned placing a wire in a vise and squeezing to modify a mold, would this work here if I was to squeeze the mold on the eye? or stick with the dremel?

 

Trying to avoid messing up the mold, so I figured I would ask first, 

 

Thanks  John

[Kasilofchrisn]

You definitely want to do 1/2 on each side. At least I would on this style jig.

Now I do have some slab jigs with off set line tie eyes but on that particular jig that is part of what gives the jig it's unique wobble.

Since your line tie eye is centered on this spire point I would center the swing hook eye as well.

I've never moded a mold this way but the vice idea is likely a very good way to get pretty precise markings of where to use your dremel.

When that is done you could cut a pocket for the hook eye. Then you could load a hook in the rear jig eye before casting.

But personally I prefer to use a split ring as then I can change out hooks as desired.

Good luck and good fishing!