MuskieTamer Posted January 13, 2016 Report Share Posted January 13, 2016 I dipped and also tried brushing on.....both resulted in wavy finishes.....i put them on a turner for 30 min prior to curing.... any suggestions? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 This sounds very similar to an effect that I got when experimenting with polyester resin. The problem was that the resin went from a liquid to a plastic phase in only seconds. As the fluid rolled around the body on the wheel, it kinda froze in position rather than gradually leveling out. As soon as you stop turning and go to the curing lamp, the fluid is drawn by gravity. The lamp cures one part of the surface, but the fluid is still moving and backs up, causing the wave. I suggest that you allow the body to drip longer to achieve a thinner coat. This removes the excess which is rolling about on the body. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muskie Tamer Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Does it look wavy before you cure it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I am talking about regular resin, not UV cure. The cause and effect are similar, the rapid cure. one part of the surface cures, the rest is still moving and a wave forms. Regular epoxy thickens slowly, so no wave forms. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Musky, I brush the Solarez on the lure and let it rotate for a few minutes before curing it in sunlight or with a UV nail light. If you dipped, it may have gotten too thick a coating on it. I think you either need to let the excess drip off the lure for a longer period, or brush it on in a thinner coating before you rotate or cure the lure. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I've spent allot of time messing with solarez. I only use it for a sealer now but the same rules apply. If your finish is wavy it's because it's too thick. If your dipping it let more product run off the plug before turning it. The baits in the picture below were dipped and hung until they stopped dripping then rotated for probably an hour before I kicked the light on. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Barr5150 - WOA!! that is some serious setup, love it. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianB Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Which Solarez product are you guys using (there seems to be quite a few on their website) Gary @ Solarez suggested this one for wood. http://solarez.com/products/duro-finish-doming-resin/ has anyone tried it? sealer? topcoat? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I originally bought the dual cure polyester gloss resin to try as a topcoat. I wasn't happy with the shine but found it works awesome as a sealer for balsa. http://solarez.com/products/solarez-polyester-gloss-resin/ When that quart ran out I bought the newer low voc version. It acts a little different then the original stuff but smells just as bad. I couldn't say how it looks as a topcoat, I don't use it for that. As a sealer I'm pretty happy with it. http://solarez.com/products/low-voc-dual-cure-polyester-resin/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianB Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Barr5150. Gary said you had to polish the polyester gloss resin at this link to get the shine you speak of. http://solarez.com/products/solarez-polyester-gloss-resin/ This stuff he said dip and done!! But it comes with a price $179/gal.. http://solarez.com/products/duro-finish-doming-resin/ disclaimer I haven't tried it "YET" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Just a note when using it as a sealer. I'm not sure what wood your using but on balsa the first dip is going to bubble pretty bad. I think as it soaks into the wood it pushes air out. Being patient here is the key. If you wait long enough the bubbles will stop coming to the surface, then you can cure it. If you cure the plug before the bubbles subside you'll have a ton of sanding to do. The second coat won't bubble near as bad, basically you can dip, hang, rotate and cure pretty quick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I wouldn't take the time to polish every plug but that's just me. I have heard it does work though. I like dip, hang and forget products. I've been stuck on KBS for awhile now. There's a few tricks you gotta know to use it but it's definitely a dip and forget product. The shine is very good too. That doming resin looks promising...I wouldn't be scared of the price if it does what he says. I don't mind paying up for products if they save me time and give good results. If you try it let us know how it works, I'm curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Barr5150 - have you tried heating your blanks before dipping. Ten minutes in an open door low heat oven. If it worked, you could make a lamp heated box for production. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Barr5150 - have you tried heating your blanks before dipping. Ten minutes in an open door low heat oven. If it worked, you could make a lamp heated box for production. Dave No. What would heating the blanks do? I'm curious. I never saw that come up anywhere before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Barr5150 - the lamp is heating the body, causing the air within to expand. If the body is already warm, then the air will contract as the body cools. This should stop the bubbles and may even give slightly better adhesion, as the fluid gets drawn into the pores. As usual with my ideas, it is theoretical, but it has to be worth a try, not much effort required. Dave 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianB Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I'm with you Barr, Time is money and that is exactly what I told Gary I don't have the time and that is when he suggested the other stuff.. If it works it's worth it I just haven't pulled the trigger yet. I like the fact that it cures quickly over the KBS product.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Barr5150 - the lamp is heating the body, causing the air within to expand. If the body is already warm, then the air will contract as the body cools. This should stop the bubbles and may even give slightly better adhesion, as the fluid gets drawn into the pores. As usual with my ideas, it is theoretical, but it has to be worth a try, not much effort required. Dave The theory sounds good and your correct, it would't take hardly any time and cost nothing to try it. I'll test it out on a few and see if it works. It could really be helpful if it does! Thanks. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I'm with you Barr, Time is money and that is exactly what I told Gary I don't have the time and that is when he suggested the other stuff.. If it works it's worth it I just haven't pulled the trigger yet. I like the fact that it cures quickly over the KBS product.. Trying to find the perfect clear coat is fun right? I really am curious about this stuff, I you end up trying it let us know. I have too much going on right now to experiment. On a side note, KBS isn't like the concrete sealers. After the first dip you can handle the plug within 24hrs. Not trying to sell you on it just giving you my experience with it. From what I read some guys hate it so take it for what it's worth. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Don't know if it matters but being a UV cured product, any Solarez sucked into the wood deep enough to avoid the UV light would not cure. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BrianB Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Another advantage of Solarez (untested of course) is you don't have to turn it and invest in a turner?? I guess I'm gonna have to be the test dummy.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barr5150 Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 Not sure how deep solarez soaks into the wood? Guess I'll cut a blank up and check it out. Definitely something to think about. BrianB, you don't have to turn it but I do. As a sealer not really a big deal on the 1st coat because allot soaks. I like it on the second though because it lets me keep more product on the bait when I cure it. Helps hide imperfections and raised grain hairs from the first dip. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Vodkaman Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I doubt that the viscosity would allow it to 'soak in', but the heat the blank thing just might improve the keying. Slicing one is a good idea, to see what is going on. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 14, 2016 Report Share Posted January 14, 2016 I heat my PVC baits with a hair dryer before I dip, and that helps the resin flow off more evenly when I hang them to drip off, before I put them under the UV light. I read on the Solarez site that you can heat the resin in a microwave for a short time, and that will make it flow more evenly. I haven't tried that yet. If it's cold when I'm dipping, I will use the hair dryer to warm the bait again after I've dipped it, while it is hanging and dripping. The warmer resin still adheres to the bait, but it flows more. Letting it drip longer doesn't hurt anything. I still get a thick enough coat with one dip. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskieTamer Posted January 15, 2016 Author Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 has anyone dipped twice? worried that the wax particles are then trapped and cannot be buffed out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 15, 2016 Report Share Posted January 15, 2016 I have not dipped twice, but I often make 3D eyes by dripping Solarez into drilled holes, until it actually domes up because it has great surface tension. I cure out the eyes, and then dip the whole bait in Solarez, with no problems. I've also changed the ballasting on already dipped baits, by drilling new ballast holes through the Solarez resin into the bait's body. Once I've gotten the bait to swim the way I want it to, I glue in the new ballast, fill the hole with bondo and sand it flush. I then touch up the paint, and brush on some Solarez to protect the new paint, lapping it onto the old Solarez around the hole. It bonds just fine. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
