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joelhains

Dipping Tubes

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I think I've finally figured out how to dip tubes. These are my first tubes that look decent!. I'm dipping on aluminum arrow shafts cut down to about 5-6 inches in length. I bent a price of wire put it inside the shaft and poured lead down inside to hold the wire in place and close off the open end. I also made my own tail splitter using utility knife blades with prices of cardboard between each blade epoxied together.

20160114_110106_zpsqrw76btt.jpg

20160114_105524_HDR_zpsvflyfp5q.jpg

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Thanks guys. I still have to tweak a few things. I might need to increase the spacing between the blades. It takes a lot of pressure to cut thought the tails. I need to figure out the hardness I want out of the plastic and number of dips relative to the tempature of the plastic too. These are triple dipped but I want a thinner tube with a firmer plastic I think.

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You can make a cutter similar to the lurecraft cutter with a block of 1 1/2" thick X 2 1/2" wide X 2" long hardwood and single edge razor blades.

Cut a channel in the 2 1/2" face of the block, in 3/4" from each edge and deep enough to bury most of the razor blade, so 1/4" is still exposed.

That should give you a 1" wide channel.  If you want more blades, make both the block and the channel wider.

Fill the channel with razor blades, and drill a pilot hole through one side for a screw, to be able to push the blades against the other side of the channel.

Seal the finished block with epoxy, so you can spray the blades with PAM as a lubricant without saturating the wood.

You can space the blades with cardboard if you want wider tails.

If you want longer tails, make the block longer, and use longer blades.  I suggest the razor blades because they're cheap and easily replaced when they dull.  

If you can get one of the self-healing cutting boards to lay your tubes on, you can use an arbor press to push the blades through the bait and do a bunch pretty quickly.

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On 1/16/2016 at 1:27 PM, mark poulson said:

You can make a cutter similar to the lurecraft cutter with a block of 1 1/2" thick X 2 1/2" wide X 2" long hardwood and single edge razor blades.

Cut a channel in the 2 1/2" face of the block, in 3/4" from each edge and deep enough to bury most of the razor blade, so 1/4" is still exposed.

That should give you a 1" wide channel.  If you want more blades, make both the block and the channel wider.

Fill the channel with razor blades, and drill a pilot hole through one side for a screw, to be able to push the blades against the other side of the channel.

Seal the finished block with epoxy, so you can spray the blades with PAM as a lubricant without saturating the wood.

You can space the blades with cardboard if you want wider tails.

If you want longer tails, make the block longer, and use longer blades.  I suggest the razor blades because they're cheap and easily replaced when they dull.  

If you can get one of the self-healing cutting boards to lay your tubes on, you can use an arbor press to push the blades through the bait and do a bunch pretty quickly.

 

Mark have you made this. if so would you mind posting a pic please. thanks for the response

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5 hours ago, Rustyfawcett said:

 

Mark have you made this. if so would you mind posting a pic please. thanks for the response

 

Sorry.  I left that back in SoCal when I moved north.

It's just a block of wood with a channel down the center.  

I made it just to see if I could.   It was more fun to make than to use, since I don't like to dip tubes.  I'm lazy, and it's too much work!

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 I have been using £.16 nails in dipping them or use a magnetic bar and hang them upside down works terrific you could use different size nails for different sized tubes are also made a homemade Carter like the original above post tried to post pictures later.

 

 I am also working with a mold maker to make tubes  these will be either a 10 or 20 cavity mold I will keep you guys updated sometime in August before we can get this done.

Edited by crazy bait
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I have been using spikes to dip tubes for a long time.   I round the point off on the bench grinder first.

 You can dip them really quick and once you get the hang of it no drips and nice smooth tubes like the ones in the photo.   With a little practice you get a feel for the plastic temp and spike temperature and can adjust  on the fly to get consistent tubes very quickly.  

 I hang my dipped spikes on a piece of modified egg crate.  They slide into place and the nail head keeps it from falling through.  When I was doing this a lot I would dip out a cup of plastic out in one heating.  One can really knock out a lot of tubes.  

I used a the spaced stack of razor blades to cut my tubes and just pressed with a hardwood backer.  I have a lot of rotary blades now but just haven't made the cutter yet.   A decent rotary set up you can really knock out some cut tails quickly and at a very cheap price in regards to materials.

I used one similar to the one Bonjon used in a clip he sent me and think a little over  a second was need to cut a tail.  

tube_zps089cc5ab.JPG

Edited by Travis
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 just got  home  and gone for two days  I need to post pictures here to show you what we have been doing  and I think it may even help you out  if you have a method that works for you and with it  we are starting to make tubes  for the smallmouth bass fishermen here  in the Columbia River  in Oregon  we are working with a bunch of new plastic are quite don't like what I have  and I need to get the person to make it a little bit harder I'm not real happy because  some of my plastic Beach are tearing real easy  may be good enough for 10 or so fish  will try to get back on here to talk more about my method and show some pictures when I get some time here.

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