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Making A Line Through Swimbait Help

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I am thinking on the same lines as Mark, molding in a sleeve. I recently did this on one of my molds and it worked well.

 

Another possible method is to pull line through with a baiting needle. Line without a sleeve will easily tear out. A sleeve could be inserted down the line if pulled tight. Even two short lengths of sleeve at the entry and exit would probably work.

 

The sleeve material that I use is from cotton buds.

 

Dave

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I'd use egg sinkers, and drill out the center hole so the sleeve rod goes through it.

I think someone (Spike-it?) sells a bonding coating so the plastic will stick to the lead.

Yes, Spike-it bond coat

I have some, ive only used it to glue plastic to plastic, but its designed to glue plastic to anything

Takes almost an hour to dry (will not stick until completely dry) so do several weights ahead of time

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If it was me, I would use a teflon tube, groove it up, and pour the lead to the tube. Insert into the bait. All done. But this would require a mold to be made for it.

 

I did some baits recently with Teflon tube inserts.  It worked ok, but Teflon tube is not very stiff compared to metal tube.  It also did not bond to the plastic very well.  I wound up just using it as a guide to pull the line thru, and then pulled out the tube.  I also tried casting some ballast weights with Teflon tube inserts, but the Teflon tubes didn't stick to the lead any better, and because its flexible the lead weight tended to pull the tube out of shape in the mold.  There are some good ideas in there, but I haven't figured out the exact application yet. 

 

 

If you are going to mold the sleeve in the body, then a metal sleeve would be better.

Dave

 

 

What about line cut on the tube ends?  Brass tube is nice, but even if you de-burr it really well the ends are pretty thin.  Maybe if you round the ends over like a rivet, but then fitting it to the mold is an issue.   

 

I have played with the idea of a complete cast lead insert and line thru tube, but the ends sticking out of the bait might be too undesirable for some folks (same with other tubes except you can cut Teflon off smooth with a sharp razor after the fact) 

 

To be honest I've been kept busy with custom work and have only thought about that last one. 

 

Lead (and chrome plated brass) line thru ballast weights are in use in many line thru swimbaits.  For most of them just the weight is used.  Any "tube" or rod is just used to leave a path for the line later.  Its easier to design for in an open pour mold.  Predator Swimbaits are made that way.  In an injection mold you have to plan all the details before you start.  FYI: Predator puts a thin wire thru the bait to help with packaging, but also to make it easier to get the line thru the bait for the angler. 

 

Another thought I had was to make a weight and a tool designed to install weights and thread lines after the bait is complete.  The weight is designed as a stack of over lapping cones.  (like the bait keeper on some jigs and swimbaits) The tool is a stiff straight fat needle with a hole on the pointy end, a washer (stop of some kind) welded (afixed somehow) in the middle, and a handle on the other end.  You place the weight on the tool, push the weight in from the bottom, and pull the line back thru with the needle.  If you are making baits for sale you could pull a thin stainless wire thru, and print instructions on the labeling to use it to pull line thru. 

Edited by Bob La Londe
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I had a very early version of a bottom hook/line thru swimbait, and it used a washer on a wire harness to keep the hook from pulling back into the belly.  It worked, and I still have the original harness somewhere.

It got me thinking that one (you or me) could use buzzbait rivets at each end of the line thru, to protect against the line cutting through the plastic.

I envision making my rivet/ballast/rivet assembly being mounted on my thru wire, sprayed with the Spik-It plastic bonder, removed after drying, and then rethreaded onto my guide wire as it is inserted into my silicone mold.

I'm sure I'll have to tinker around with the length of the ballast lead, so there isn't any bare wire in the pour, but that's just a matter of playing around with the ballast length.

I'm thinking of using Darkman's Mojo/type sinkers as ballast, or egg sinkers.

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