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Cuttem Jack

Centering Ballast Holes

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Im having issues with getting my ballast holes drilled dead center. I'm using a vise and a drill press with Forster bits but it seems one or more will not be dead center. I'm using a micrometer to measure each one and it seems at least one will be off. Just wondering if anyone had any tricks to help.

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If you are marking dead center then the issue has to be just not getting the blank secured and centered.  Good lighting will help make sure you are hitting the mark.  I would also make sure your forstner bit is sharp as it is important for it to be cutting good.   If you are having to apply pressure with the press you may cause the blank to deflect slightly.  Never had it happen on a crank but have on similar thickness stock at times.  If the vise jaws don't support the crank vertically can help to make wood cauls that are tall enough.  Add some recessed magnets on the backside and they will stay put on your jaws.

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Just after I cut out the basic lure shape, I measure the center of the blank and run a compass all around the blank to establish center for all of the hardware.  Run it from both sides of the bait to insure it's really on the center line.

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I agree with Travis and Bob. I will assume that you are using a awl to help you start on center. Another thing that I can think of is to take your time with this. Some times I get in a hurry and find myself not doing what I'm working on properly. Either I have to start over or just realize that I need to slow down. I have found a good speed now, but it took some time. :)

Dale

Edited by DaleSW
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Yes a use a compass and scribe my centerline and an awl to mark my weight holes. I'm using a 1/2 forstner bit in 3/4 stock. I'm making musky lures so I have multiple ballast holes in each one. I'm sure my forstner bit is a bit dull as I've drilled hundreds of holes with it and my vise is probably not the best. I'm going to get another bit and see if that helps.

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I drill pilot holes in my potential ballast locations after I've cut out the lure shape, but still have flat sides.

A 1/2" bit is really hard to keep centered.  Have you considered more, smaller, deeper holes, to make centering easier?

And a dull bit is almost impossible to keep centered, because it is hacking at against the harder material instead of cutting it.

Edited by mark poulson
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I also make muskie lures, I always center all my blanks when they are still square top an bottom. I center all the holes and make sure that some time the wood rings have a tendency to push your punch to one side or the other, I also I keep the center line facing me when drilling the holes and I lower the bit slowly and you can easily see when the bit is to one side. As other mentioned good lighting it is a must

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Sometimes even sharp drill bits will grab and tear out especially in soft woods like balsa or woods that have funky grain patterns. I drill my holes by hand and have found that if you'll run the bit in reverse until you get the hole started it will stay on center and not cause tear out. Once you have the hole at least 1/16" deep you can switch the drill into forward and drill the remainder of the hole. This works well in the softer woods like balsa and paulownia which I use for bass lures. Not sure how it will work in harder woods as I haven't tried it.

 

Ben

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Sometimes even sharp drill bits will grab and tear out especially in soft woods like balsa or woods that have funky grain patterns. I drill my holes by hand and have found that if you'll run the bit in reverse until you get the hole started it will stay on center and not cause tear out. Once you have the hole at least 1/16" deep you can switch the drill into forward and drill the remainder of the hole. This works well in the softer woods like balsa and paulownia which I use for bass lures. Not sure how it will work in harder woods as I haven't tried it.

Ben

Again, that's exactly how you do it. Ben, Poplar and Pine don't seem to splinter out with a low speed setting on the drill press for me. I use my fingers to reverse drill all balsa baits as well. I still use my fingers to drill the hole for hinge wires in jointed baits, but doing so will wear your skin out quickly. The skin on my thumb will peel off in a few days if I'm doing several baits at once. I fumble the bit to much in gloves.

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Again, that's exactly how you do it. Ben, Poplar and Pine don't seem to splinter out with a low speed setting on the drill press for me. I use my fingers to reverse drill all balsa baits as well. I still use my fingers to drill the hole for hinge wires in jointed baits, but doing so will wear your skin out quickly. The skin on my thumb will peel off in a few days if I'm doing several baits at once. I fumble the bit to much in gloves.

 

I figured it would probably be the same with other woods Mountain Man, but I don't like to recommend things with which I have no experience.

 

Ben

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I have had bits wander on me and it can be very frustrating. Like others, I drill the holes when the lure still has flat sides. Also, I have started putting the bit right on the mark for the center line and applying a bit of downward pressure before turning on the drill press (I have the piece firmly in the vise at the time). This has eliminated any wandering. This also works with my forstner bits as well.

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