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Happy

Wood Crankbaits

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I was wondering about Balsa wood is it strong enough to put screw eyes in? Or do you need to put a thru wire in them they are about 2 1/2" and 3" long. Is it better to split the lure to do this or force feed it thru?

Its for Bass. Thanks for any info. Its nice to have a place to ask questions B)

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Thanks Big Splash, Do most crankbaits need a belly weight? And how do you know how much weight to add? I have a million questions I am new to this stuff. There are some things I dont understand , Like how a crankbait hunts, Is it just one out of hundred that does that or is it something that you did and just didnt know it. DO you keep a log book on your baits? Thanks again for the info. B)

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Yes, most cranks need weight to run true. I make minnow shaped plugs more than true crankbaits, and tend to use pine or cedar, but the basics are the same. Weight, and the shape and angle of the lip are critical to make your crankbait do what you want, floater/diver, for example.

You will need to experiment to find the right weight for your particular design. You can get in the right ballpark by attaching weights with a rubber band to the outside of a fully rigged bait and float testing. Then drill and epoxy in the weight, and finish the lure. As for a searching action...I'm guessing it has to do with the location of the center of balance in the bait.

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Hi Happy,

I like to use a through wire in balsa cranks. Don't use screw-ins, the just don't hold well enough in balsa, though they are fine in some harder timbers. I cut a slot in the blank using a tenon saw, bandsaw or tablesaw before I start shaping the crank body. After shaping I glue the through wire in place with a good quality epoxy.

Some weight in the belly does help many cranks swim better, but lots of the ones I make don't have this. Using no weight does give the lure a crisper action, but some just won't dive properly without a bit of lead. Experimentation is the key.

Cheers

Greg

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