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Tm Customs

Stencils?

19 posts in this topic

Hello guy's,

I am going to start painting crankbaits asap! I was wondering on many of the craw and shad patterns gills ect. are you using a stencil? What can I make stencils from?

Thanks

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B) T.M. ,they hold up well, with the playing cards lasting longer due to the plastic like film on them!, and a deck of cards is really cheap!,and the plastic milk jug is an amazing idea!!! B) nice one Coley!! as for the worms they work great, ,can you make something smaller ? totally rounded with the same colour combos? if so e-mail me ! B) Rob

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:D

A good swivel knife will help with cutting the precise patterns out. I used to use a normal exacto knife, but recently changed over to a swivel knife and its alot better on the small stuff. You can also get plastic sheets at Wally World in the craft dept. that are supposed to be used for quilt patterns but they work great for stencils as well.

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I agree with the plastic sheets. The reason being is you can see exactly where the stencil will be in regards to the bait by seeing through it. I have had problems with the cardboard, beings I cant see through it. I had the dickens of a time getting the correct placement of a gill on one lure. It was too high, too low, too right too left! With the plastic I can see right where I want to place it! Cody

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Ok guy's I here you talking about it But could someone post a picture of it being done? I've tried to do it but it just seems I'm not getting the jist of it!

Like for instance, do you hold it right on the lure or just slightly off of it?

Or do you wrap it around the lure, what about a second coat if your first was a FUBAR?

I wolud really like to see a pic of this being done, chalk it up as me being a beginner.

:huh:

Thanks Rob.

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Again remember the plastic will be better since you can see where your application will be on the lure. I take a sharpie and outline the lure onto the plastic. Then draw my design for the stencil on the plastic and cut it with an Exacto knife. When I want to shoot paint through the stencil, I line the outline up with the lure, and shoot away. I then flip the lure over on the holder, flip the stencil over as well, line it up with the outline, and shoot the other side. Be careful of the runoff blocked paint on the stencil when you flip it over. The run off could show up on the lure if you paint too thick. But I use Createx, I wait a minute for it to set and it is pretty well dry, not completely dry, but enough to not cause me an issue. This is great for the stripes or gills or anything for your lure that you will need a fine line on that you cant do freehand with the airbrush. Or in my case.. dont want to mess up by doing it freehand. Plus the added feature is that it makes it easier to control and learn the airbrush for the newbies. Plus you know what... it is a consistencey paint job from one lure to the other. As far as holding the stencil close or away.. You can do it either way! If you hold it close to the lure, without moving you will get a nice fine sharp edge. Further away the edge will soften up a little. Sometimes I shake a little, (too much caffeine!) so that softens the edge up slightly as well. I think sometimes a soft edge is where its at. So dont get too complicated and distressed with it at first. I have been only making a heavy pass or two on the stencils with out moving it, and it seems to work out ok and the colors hold up well. Usually I am doing a Dark color amidst a light color so building up is not so much of a problem for me. Practice it! Play around with it. Sometime soon I will try to post a tutorial on it... but I have seen it used on another Tackle Making website. Cant remember the address though. Cody

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I think I will go with plastic when I start, I would greatly appricate it if you were to post a tutorial Bass Nator 1 :D

Thanks

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BassNator 1:

Right on buddy, that's good stencil works. We need a tutorial like that in our knowledge base. If you can get some photos to go with the verbage it would make a fine addition to our tutorials.

Taylor:

Another technique I've been experimenting with is plasti-dip stencils. I take a blank and put on 3 heavy coats of devcon and allowed to cure. Then the blank is dipped 2 times in plasti-dip. When the plastic has cured mark where you want the stripes or details with a ball point pen. The ink will wipe off with a cotton swab and water if you need to erase anything before cutting. The 3 thick coats of epoxy is applied to build the lure up fatter as the plasti dip WILL shrink. The concept is to get a glove like fit. I've had success doing it this way however it doesn't allow you the options of soft edges.

I posted a photo of Lil' Wigglers in the gallery that I used the top 2 stencils on.

Tight lines,

Shawn

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That is a great idea Artbrush! Something I have been considering is shrink tubing for a stencil, if they make it in a large enough size. Slide the lure in apply heat and the stuff will shrink down tightly around the lure and it is a tuff material which should last.

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KcDano,

Let us know when you find a supplier. I heard you could get it at Radioshack but the radioshack in my area only has the smaller diameters.

Shawn

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Art Brush,

very good idea won't really work for me yet since I am planning on doing a bunch of different types of lures. You can find teh shrink tubing in larger sizes at automotive store.

Taylor

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You can buy a big sheet of acetate at your local art supply store.A sheet about 2.5 x 3 ft. for 1.59 where I live,have not tried it.Tried the heat shrink last week.You will have to line the inside if the tube or the adhesive sticks to the lure.Have discovered the use of rubber cement to make a neat masking effect.I recently have started to look at everthing as having a use as a stencil,panty hose(there are all different styles)old cast nets,material,fine wire screen,ect..I wait for the paint to dry pin it in place with some wire clips and shoot the scales.Come back with 1 or two passes of other colors at different angles gives some nice shading possibilities.

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