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Lathe Lures Will Not Wobble And Walk Straight

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I'm trying to make some lures with my lathe. The lures have a fixed bill also turned.

The problem is that theywill not walk straight even not after tuning the screweyes

The wobble is almost null

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Did you add ballast weight?  Do you have any finished lures that you tested so that we can see the line tie and hook hangers?  There could be several things going on but you didn't offer enough information.

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I see that you either sanded or cut the bills, make sure that they are straight with the rest of the body, if not they will go all over the place, also I would put in some belly weight. You must do one move at a time or you will not learn anything.

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I see that you either sanded or cut the bills, make sure that they are straight with the rest of the body, if not they will go all over the place, also I would put in some belly weight. You must do one move at a time or you will not learn anything.

i used a lathe, so everything is straight.

i tried bellyweight but that didn't do the trick

i will use heaver wood next time

tow eye position would need to be 1/2 inch from beginning of lip .

beginning of the lip.is that the side attached to the body or the other site?

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Two things I wonder about are , is the difference between the lip size and the body size too big, those shoulders look like they would be very stable moving through the water, and the lips seem very shallow.

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I was looking at the short one and maybe bigest one. Then looking at the longer one I started thinking about what Dave has drove into my head and what I read about what hydrodynamic force happens with a lure traveling through the water.

The lure is most likely very true to the center line (X line). With this being said the water traveling around the lure will be exactly equal or at least extremely close. Therefore there is no force making the lure to move in any direction. Example a arrow with out quills (feathers).

The only part of the lure that tries at all is the bill/lip. Think of how the Zara Spook lure acts as it moves straight, other then the "walking the dog" technique.

You need to give the bait some flat on the sides near the tail. As the water comes around the shoulders it creates a swirl that pushes the tail from left to right then visa versa. Equal pressure creates nothing but stress. Hey I know what that's like? :(

Ok if I'm not right.....I will punt. (American football humor) :) or :(

Dale

Edited by DaleSW

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Also I agree with Aulrich about the bill, after thinking about the lure running true. As far as being shallow and its width and the height compared to the body. The water is rushing over the body from the bill. This could be your problem of not running true and action.

You have a very interesting lure design, I would like to see it work for you.

Good luck,

Dale

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I recently had a problem with my line tie in a few lures, I mistakenly moved it up a half cm and my lure had zero action, then I moved it down to under half the lure height and I had great action.

 

I think moving your line tie should work. Look at your lure from the side profile, make sure that the line tie exits at or below the midpoint of the height. From the front of the lures the line tie looks like it will be about halfway back on the lip.

 

Good luck!

 

Harrison

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It's hard to determine how long or wide the diving bills are.But I'm with Woodieb8....I'd put my tow point about a third of the way up from the bottom of the lip...Nathan

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tried a new one tonight.

slimmer body and a bigger bib

towline will be in the middle or just below the middle

tn_gallery_49475_8_86038.jpg i can't get more pictures in the replay, so the rest is on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/pescabaits/

 

will this bodyshape ever wobble and walk straight? i saw that diemai makes his lures with a body that has the larges part in the middle between bib and tail?

Edited by pescabaits

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I'm no expert when it comes to hydrodynamics, but it seems to me the angle of the lip is intersecting the bait much too high on the body. This, along with the size of the lip radius where the lip joins the body, leaves very little of the lure body for the flow of water to interact with. If the flow of water has nothing to push against you won't get the desired loading and unloading which drives the action.

 

Just my :twocents: .

 

Ben

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I was looking at the short one and maybe bigest one. Then looking at the longer one I started thinking about what Dave has drove into my head and what I read about what hydrodynamic force happens with a lure traveling through the water.

The lure is most likely very true to the center line (X line). With this being said the water traveling around the lure will be exactly equal or at least extremely close. Therefore there is no force making the lure to move in any direction. Example a arrow with out quills (feathers).

The only part of the lure that tries at all is the bill/lip. Think of how the Zara Spook lure acts as it moves straight, other then the "walking the dog" technique.

You need to give the bait some flat on the sides near the tail. As the water comes around the shoulders it creates a swirl that pushes the tail from left to right then visa versa. Equal pressure creates nothing but stress. Hey I know what that's like? :(

Ok if I'm not right.....I will punt. (American football humor) :) or :(

Dale

Along the same lines... While reading up on vortex shedding (thanks to Dave), i remember that oscillation will not occur around a streamline object... If it did, airplane wings would vibrate into pieces

I think your designs are too "aerodynamic" (or hydrodynamic if that's the propper term)... Maybe you need to create some turbulance

Ive noticed i get more agressive action on a crank bait if i extend the point of the nose over the lip a bit.. This makes a "dam" of sorts, between the nose lip, where pressure can build...... Idk if this is possible on a lathe, cause ive never used one

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Consider a concave face to the lip rather than flat. Yes it is a lot more work, and difficult to get symmetrical, but it will generate more wiggle power.

 

You need to experiment with tow eye position on first prototype. There are no formulae, all we can offer is best guesses for a testing start point.

 

Dave

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Quite simple - It is the standard lathe turned part. But instead of cutting a plane, you cut a right-angle. for the corner radius, you drill a hole through first.

 

Dave

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Quite simple - It is the standard lathe turned part. But instead of cutting a plane, you cut a right-angle. for the corner radius, you drill a hole through first.

 

Dave

ok thanks.

i will try that later. first some testing with the new body shapes and larger bib

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The theory is that the 'hook' forces the water out the sides, preventing flow over the top. This generates more power for the wiggle. This is why regular lipped lures work so well, as the water is hooked by the intersection of the lip with the body.

 

Early on, I prototyped some lipped lures with the lip on the front face. The action was very poor.

 

Dave

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