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7 replies to this topic
Posted 24 August 2004 - 03:38 PM
I have been making some flat crankbaits. I have tried 2-ton epoxy and envirotex lite, but I believe that the topcoat that dee's puts on his baits is better, it seems to be flexible somewhat like envirotex lite but is very thin. The envirotex cracks on me if I don't put on a very thick coat. Does anyone know what coating that Dee's uses on his baits?
Posted 24 August 2004 - 08:19 PM
Have you tried warming up the E Tex or Devcon before mixing? That should thin the viscosity a bit.
Posted 25 August 2004 - 12:08 AM
It could be Flex Coat that is used for fishing rods. It is flexible and many baitmakers still use it for clearcoating.
Posted 25 August 2004 - 10:07 AM
I don't beleive I would want to thin my envirotex any, as a matter of fact I have to let it set and thicken up before applying, because if I put it on before it gets somewhat thicker it will leave bare spots on the bait. Has anyone here used Flexlite, what are the pros and cons of this product?
Does anyone here prefer it to enviro or devicon, and if they do, why?
Posted 25 August 2004 - 11:49 AM
Something is not being done correctly with ETEX. You must be hanging the bait rather than putting it on a drying wheel. With 3 coats of ETEX on a drying wheel,I can make any bait look like Glass. Gary Dees topcoats are extremely thin and to be honest I wonder....if that is a good thing?..I personally dont think so.
Posted 25 August 2004 - 02:01 PM
I am spinning my baits for approx. 8 hours. I apply one coat of etex to the bait, paint then apply another coat of etex. Are you applying 3 topcoats, could it be that I need to apply more to avoid the cracking problems? With 3 topcoats it seems that I would have more etex that wood. I know that Dee's baits do seem to have a very thin coat, but thats why I would like to know what he is using, because I have used many of them and it is very durable for being so thin.
Posted 26 August 2004 - 12:34 PM
I have a different opinion...on Etex. Never had it crack ever nor have I had it not completely cover. I am not sure.. Yes, I am talking about 3 topcoats after all painting is complete. Just not sure....why dont you just ask Gary? He fishes alot of tournys close by....I am sure he wont tell you, even if he were using ETEX. The Wee Bait is was the original out of SWest Ohio and it still is. His finish is alot thicker than Gary's finish. I am pretty sure that the Weebait is finished in something similar to flexcoat. Ask Richoc he may be able to tell you....he is very familiar with this product.
Posted 26 August 2004 - 01:29 PM
It sounds as though you would like a thinner clear coat than any of the 2 parts will give you.
I am on the right path?
My vote would be clear Laquer.
Get it at Home depot, rustoleum brand.(rattle can)
Use it very lightly , and build 3-4 light coats.
Paint under coats must be fully cured, and this stuff sets fast, like 5 mins.
The thinner in it will bubble paints under it , so you must work with it.
This is what I use on my rapala custom paint jobs.
Very clear and thin, with not to much weight added to the balsa baits.
Holds up to hook wear just as good as the factory finish.
If I were the Etex the shad raps , I think it would effect the buoyancy of the bait and change the action, some what.
I can spray them very thin with Etex, but do not think the Etex is as good untill a good mil. coating is in place.
All though it would make then very tough.
I have tried a number of water based clears and have not been very happy with them.
Trolled them for a while and they have to much hook ware on them the first day.( to the point of needing repainting)
Finding out what some one else is using can be figured out, but easiest to ask them.