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spoonpluggergino

Brace For The Dispensing Can

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Here is a diagram to install a brace in the can, so the wall will not collapse if to much pressure is applied

In this scenario I would use an old can do the installation with the brace, than pour your S81 in to the can with the dispensing valve

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Only one problem Gino. When you pour the DN from one can to the other your exposing it to moisture in the air. This moisture is what starts the DN to curing. All you really have to do is take the lid off the can to expose it to moisture. The whole purpose of the "tapping the can" method of extraction is to avoid exposing DN to this moisture.

 

Another way to strengthen the wall of the can is to epoxy a piece of Lexan to the side of the can where it will be pierced to install your valve. Just use sandpaper to roughen up the surface of the can where the Lexan stiffener will be placed. Cut a piece of Lexan to fit and then use a heat gun to soften it enough to make it conform to the contour of the can. Roughen the Lexan with sandpaper and epoxy it to the can. You can hold the Lexan in place with a rubber band until the epoxy dries. Drill hole and install valve. Hope this helps.

 

Ben

 

p.s. Great idea on the use of the valve you posted earlier.

Edited by RayburnGuy

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Thanks Ben

The can I installed the valve did not need the brace as long as not too much pressure is applied tested and holds water with no problem That is why I drill the hole through the valve and that is done with the can full of liquid, if you try to pierce the hole with the piercing valve than the wall will push in a little

 

Question how the DN comes out of the can with out some kind vent from the top, with out a vent a vacuum would form and liquid would not come out, that is the law of physic, I am baffled on that part

 

For example if you have a straw full of water and you block the straw with your finger at the top water will not come out from the bottom until you move your finger causing a vent and atmospheric pressure will push the water out from the bottom

 

Maybe I am missing something . Any way I am going to try some Dick Nite and compare to other clear coats that I have been using, Thanks again for the input on reinforcing the wall with lexan if needed

 

Gino

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Gino,

 

Someone here at TU (can't remember who) suggested putting a screw in the top of the can the same way that is done to the side of the can to draw the DN through. The screw in the top is loosened, or removed, so a vacuum isn't created while drawing DN from the can.

 

Here's a step by step how I do mine and you can alter the process to use with your piercing valve. When I get a new can I epoxy the Lexan stiffener (talked about above) where I want the valve to be. I then turn the can upside down and make a small hole in the side of the can and through the Lexan where the valve is to be placed that is just large enough a self tapping sheet metal screw will start. You would be placing your piercing valve here. Once I have the hole through the Lexan and the side of the can I spray some Bloxygen into the can and install my valve. My reasoning for using the Bloxygen is that when the can is turned right side up the Bloxygen will settle on the surface of the DN and provide a protective barrier between the DN and any moisture laden air that makes it's way inside the can by way of the vent. Once the can is turned right side up I repeat the "tapping" process in the top of the can using another sheet metal screw as another valve. This way you can loosen the "valve" in the top of the can so no vacuum is formed. Since the Bloxygen (argon gas) you sprayed in the can earlier is heavier than air it will lay on the surface of the DN and protect it from any moisture.

 

The can of DN I'm using right now is almost empty and it's been "tapped" for well over a year. Maybe closer to two years, and I just used it to top coat a bait a couple days ago so "tapping the can" does work. One more thing. Not sure how much difference it makes, but I try to keep the can level and upright so as not to disturb the layer of Bloxygen resting on top of the DN inside the can.

 

If there's anything I can help with just holler back and I'll do my best. Good luck and let us know how it goes with the DN.

 

Ben

 

p.s. The can in the picture below was taken before I added the Lexan stiffener. I later added a second "tap" using the Lexan stiffener because the original hole had stripped out and the screw got loose letting the liquid slowly leak. The leaking liquid was allowed to harden which sealed the original hole and then the second "tap" was made using the Lexan. There has been no problem with the Lexan stripping out and the screw has been in and out countless times.

DN Tap the Can.jpg

DN Tap the Can.jpg

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DN Tap the Can.jpg

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DN Tap the Can.jpg

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Edited by RayburnGuy
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