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Kbs Diamond Clear

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I like this for my small bass lures but I can't seem to get rid of the little bubbles, I serched but can't find anything about the bubbles other than its a problem. I was going to try hitting the lure with a airbrush after dipping to get rid of the bubbles. They seem to come up over night.  If anyone has done this before, otherwise I will try it later today.

Wayne

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If the bubbles come up after initial application, I suspect the KBS is either reacting with one of your other finish coatings or, in the case of a wood lure, that air is migrating through your underlying finish into the clearcoat because the lure is heating.

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I found you can't mix this product before dipping. Open the can or the jar you have it in and start using it. If you think it needs to be mixed or you just added a little xylene to cut it you'll need to let it sit to give the air bubbles time to dissipate before dipping. Also, you can't let the plugs drip back into the can. Every drip causes bubbles in the mix that the next lure will grab. If the container you have it in is wide enough you can dip the plug on one side and let it drip off on the other. The bubbles will stay in an isolated area for awhile. For me it's easier to just dip and hang. I don't bother letting the product drip back in the can. I tried letting the plugs drip over another container so I could save the product but it really isn't worth it, your hardly left with enough to save. 

 

If you sure your mix is clean and not "aerated" make sure the sealer your using is doing it's job. If a wood plug isn't sealed correctly it will bubble like crazy when it's dipped in this stuff. 

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The thinner the mix the quicker it dries. If it's not extremely humid and you have a fairly thin mix you can handle the plugs in a few hours. I've fished plugs that had their final coat just 24hrs earlier. For customer lures I try to let them sit for a good few days before tuning/shipping.

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Has anyone contacted the company in regards to curing conditions?  Specifically wonder if any ideal humidity for optimal product performance.  Sounds like as close to zero percent would be best for application then transfer to or increase humidity to a given level for curing.    

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I haven't tried KBS but have used several other MCU's. In my experience two things can cause bubbles in the finish to form after application. First is bubbles driven out of a wood bait by heating it during the cure process, The second is the MCU sitting in liquid form too long on a bait. That gives the active solvents in the MCU enough time to begin reacting with the paint to form bubbles and begin lifting paint off the bait. To eliminate this, baits can be hung up to dry and off-gas the solvent to allow excess MCU to drip off the tail of the bait. If you put the bait on a lure turner, you're asking for trouble since the rotation can prevent the excess MCU from dripping off the bait. Instead it can collect under the drying skin of the MCU in liquid form and cause bubbling. So simply hanging a bait up to dry is the way to go. Jmho

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Wayne, as to how many coats - I use one coat of MCU and think that's fine for bass baits, especially plastic ones.  After a few days of curing, MCU gets very tough and very slick.  I think it's the equal of just about any factory coating I've seen on plastic baits.  I know some TU'ers use multiple coats, so it's really player's choice.  Like a lot of solvent based finishes, you need to recoat within a specified period or wait at least 24 hrs lest you get wrinkling and bubbling.  Maybe barr5150 can give you tips on how he times recoating.

 

I haven't had wear problems with single coat MCU on lures used for casting for bass.  However, the MCU wore through faster from hook rash than a single coat of Devcon Two Ton epoxy on lures I use for trolling.  Not that the epoxy is tougher than MCU, it's just much thicker.

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