Swimbait Joints

[Jon P.]

Hey folks, my current swimbait project is coming along nicely, I have a few bodies ready for carving and I have a paint plan set out and a I'm just about ready for making moulds. However, there is a small road bump. I have very few power tools and cutting joints I proving a problem. My tools of choice are as follows; chop saw, handheld jigsaw, woodworking vice, handheld drill, belt sander and a dremel. I was hoping some one could tell me how to make a joint with those meager tools. Note: Hardware is not a problem.

[RayburnGuy]

Solarfall has a video of how he does his swimbait joints using only simple hand tools. Don't remember offhand exactly which one it is, but a quick search should bring it up for you.

 

Ben

[SW Lures]

This is what I do. I do a layout of my design (drawing), I scan it to my computer. This gives me two denomination of the bait. In the drawing for a certain location ballast, lip angle and joint location drawn in also. I put center lines on the sides of the wood, I use wood glue to attach the drawing. Make sure that both drawing are pointing in the same direction. Lol I've done the no no. Oops, I forgot I cut the lip slot and drill the ballast holes.

My joints are facing the head, the V point. At this point I can cut the joint by following the lines with any type of saw. This can be any soft cutting saw, small tooth. I just started making swimbaits but I like 45° joints.

I then use wood glue lightly to put them back together. I shape the bait, then I seperate the joints. I then drill the hole for a wire hinge in the piece furthest from the head. The wire eyes can be reset into the wood a little if needed. I made a spike that fits this hole. I put the two pieces together which gives a witness mark on the other side of the joint for a straight alignment. Once ready to join up the bait, I ease the edges, which I like.

Now if you want a pin/screw eye joint, I can't help. Never done that yet. However I got a good idea.

Hope this helps,

Dale

Edited October 16, 2016 by DaleSW

[mark poulson]

If you have a fine toothed handsaw, like a backsaw or a dovetail saw, that will give you the most controllable amd safest way to cut joints.

[Vodkaman]

DaleSW - I like the spike idea.

Dave

[Jon P.]

If you have a fine toothed handsaw, like a backsaw or a dovetail saw, that will give you the most controllable amd safest way to cut joints.

How about a fine bladed hacksaw? The smaller blade may make control easier.

[DingerBaits]

Japanese flush cut saw is a great hand tool for doing the joints. 

[Jon P.]

my current plan for the joints is to take my unshaped blanks, mark out the guidelines on which I would like to cut the bait, cut it with a coping saw, glue it back together, and shape it.

[SW Lures]

Dave thanks, the craft of making furniture uses this technique for dowels. I thought it would work here. One evening not long after that, I saw Solar Baits do the same thing. It helps big time with alignment. All you have to do is to pick the right location for the hinge.

I made mine out of old drill bits.

Dale

[Vodkaman]

my current plan for the joints is to take my unshaped blanks, mark out the guidelines on which I would like to cut the bait, cut it with a coping saw, glue it back together, and shape it.

If you are cutting a round shaped hinge then fine, the coping saw is the tool to use. But if you are cutting straight lines, something with more depth to the blade will be much better and easier to control. The depth of blade makes the cut self-guiding.

 

Dave

[Jon P.]

If you are cutting a round shaped hinge then fine, the coping saw is the tool to use. But if you are cutting straight lines, something with more depth to the blade will be much better and easier to control. The depth of blade makes the cut self-guiding.

 

Dave

Ok, I see how that would be helpful, thank you.

[mark poulson]

You might think of using a long fine toothed sawzall blade, with some duct tape on one end as an handle.  It will be more rigid and stronger than a hacksaw blade, and will be easier to control.

I use one to make some of my cuts in my PVC frog baits.

Using it on the pull stroke, like a Japanese hand saw, works really well.

[jonister]

If you do go with a hand saw, get your measurements where you want them, and draw your joints on. Then when you go to cut, you can lightly, then a little harder, score the marks with a Stanley knife. Thus will allow for a bit easier free cut, as you will have a visual guide, and it will help the blade cut a little straighter. It won't get it absolutely perfect, but if we were building perfect lures, it wouldn't be fun anymore. :haha:

[Chuck Young]

I cut out and sand the profile to shape. My paper has the joint lines on it. Apply a reverse copy to the other side. The first cut to the center is made with a coping saw on those lines. I cut toward the front to achieve a double V joint. Then I sand to even with a belt sander and files. The front of each section has a steeper angle. That is done with a belt sander as well. Next I put in the hinges and  finish the shaping. Wraps around the hinges can be used to hamper movement.