SW Lures Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 Etex is a two part. I've used about all clear coates mentioned so far in this thread, plus some others. There are several posting here that has many years of experience and are giving you good answers. I used D2T for years, but it has issues with some lures I make. To me it's a hassle to use, similar to Etex...IMO. I just started using DN and KBS (months). I thin mine less then most I think. I have no problems with either, even when I fish shallow mountain rivers. I tested each coating in the driveway off of rocks, asphalt and toothy hammers (framing). Each did fine but not as well D2T. I'm still using the two and I'm ok with the fishing life time right now. I wonder how long did y'all let the bait set between painting and clear coating? I also wonder what type of sealer was used if the bait was wooden? These questions are for the chipping off of the clear coatings. @ Reallison, remember D2T is a heavy clear coat. The weight even thinned will build up and change the action of the bait. If enough is applied any of them will do this. What I go by for paints and coatings, "keep layers as light as possible". I rather put a thicker coat on then two thinner coats, if the two would weigh more then the one, which is normal I believe. JMHO Take care, Dale 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 I just received a E-Mail from KBS and they now have it in a aerosol 15oz can special price $17.95 plus shipping. I will be ordering some this week, has anyone tried it it the aerosol can yet. Will let you know how it works when I get it. Wayne Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 Dale brings up a good point about durability depending on the "whole enchilada" of the finish coatings used on a crankbait. Sealer/waterproofer, paint, and topcoat all work together to determine how well the layers will adhere to each other and how durable the finish will be, so you have to develop a regimen of coatings that adhere well to each other and are chemically compatible, or are at least not chemically incompatible. Finding a set of coatings like that isn't always easy. I think Vodkaman pointed out that epoxy has a density of 1.1 compared to water density of 1.0. In practical terms, that means epoxy is almost neutrally buoyant and so doesn't affect the performance of a bait as much as you might expect. Another good quality of epoxy is that it is chemically neutral and will not react badly with any other coating you might choose to slap on a crankbait. Those are two of the reasons it is so popular. Its downside is that its adhesion is mechanical instead of via chemical bonding, so if it is damaged water will infiltrate the finish layer under it, which is usually water based acrylic paint. The paint reabsorbs water and pushes the epoxy off the bait. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 Wow I never would have thought epoxy was that close to water density BobP. My bad on that one! Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gliders Posted November 6, 2016 Report Share Posted November 6, 2016 Yip,some think adding say 2 grams topcoat is like adding 2 grams lead !,it ain't. If you were to take say a metal spoon or lead jig and keep adding layers of epoxy ,it would gradually make its sink slower due to decreasing weight to volume. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
