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My Duplicator & Shop

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Yes Glider, it is very important that the holding board does not move and everything is square. I did turn the end around once. You just see the original rectangle shape. Didn't do it again.

You can do one side in a minute or two, flip it over and your finish. Lay it to the side, after you get through cutting/shaping the baits out you just trim off the ends and clean them up. If I go back to using it for baits again I'll put spacers in there to shorten up the wood. Also I may tack glue sand paper to hold a little bit better. I haven't had trouble with movement, just to make sure.

That master was the first bait I made. Once I got the bib/lip and balance right it turned out to be a great lure.

:tipsy:

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4 hours ago, DaleSW said:

Thank you Azsouth. I have very little time to enjoy working in it now a days. When I do I make it worth it. Someday I may have more time?

Thanks again,

:ph34r:

Dale, sorry you don't have the time, but you have to get your priorities straight......fishing and equipment first....second who cares:D

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Yep I saw that one Mark actually a different but similar when I started making mine. The one I made is very similar to another one. This one can do detail and semi flat profiles plus baits. If I remove the clamping system for baits, I can set up for other work with different (monted) type of clamps.

It's not limited other then size. I can reproduce unique round or oval picture frames for example, in one piece. I have another tool plate that I can put in a high speed router.

Dale

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Jigginpig – you made me laugh. My explaining skills are not good, I know that as well as everyone else does.

Stylus or follower – just like the needle on a vinyl record, the stylus follows the contour of the master shape to be copied.

The stylus is connected to the cutter, so if the stylus lifts then so does the cutter. This applies to both types of copy machine.

Type 1, copy carver - The master shape and the wood blank are fixed. The stylus is dragged across the master shape manually, just like colouring in with a 3D pen. As the stylus moves over the master shape, the cutter makes the same moves over the wood blank and cuts an exact copy.

Type 2, duplicator - The master shape and the wood blank rotate at the same speed. The stylus rests on the master shape. As the master shape rotates, the stylus is lifted and lowered by the uneven shape. This in turn lifts and lowers the cutter, which cuts into the rotating wood blank making the same shape. The stylus and cutter are mounted on a threaded rod. The thread slowly drives the stylus along the length of the master and the cutter follows the stylus.

That is the best I can do to describe the two copy methods. If anyone would like to step in and simplify my descriptions, please do, I have absolutely no objections.

Dave

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For the life of me I couldn't remember stylus!! As much as I have said it in the past. I have different shapes that matches the different bits/cutters I have. Some I made, some a friend did in his machine shop.

What you can do is get the general shape then switch bits and stylus to a more detail cut inside the work piece or around the piece. This includes baits. You must get more light handed and slow down while doing this.

Dale

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Dale - I have designed a copy carver (your style of machine) but I I had to give up my house just as I was about to build it. The idea was to rough out the blanks on my duplicator and then cut the detail on the copy carver.

I also have another m/c design for cutting lips using the copy carver method.

I like your thinking. It is similar to mine and a few others on this site, Hazmail springs to mind, but there are others. There is much satisfaction when a m/c idea comes to life, even better than catching your first fish on a home-made.

Dave

Edited by Vodkaman
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Dale - I think there is a possible hybrid design possibility between the two copy machines; if the master and the blank block are connected and can be rotated, then your copy carver method can be used without having to cook one side and then turn over. This might be the way that I go with the new design - see, you inspired me :)

Dave

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2 hours ago, Vodkaman said:

Dale - I think there is a possible hybrid design possibility between the two copy machines; if the master and the blank block are connected and can be rotated, then your copy carver method can be used without having to cook one side and then turn over. This might be the way that I go with the new design - see, you inspired me :)

Dave

Dave,

The beauty of your idea of using both is that the saw removes a lot of material quickly and roughly,  but doesn't dull quickly.  The router is slower and smoother, but the bits dull more quickly.  Theoretically, because the router is removing far less material,  it should stay sharp longer.

Having to change between two machines might increase build time, but the more finished results that require less sanding might make up for it.

The video of the original lure duplicator from years ago, where the stock is fed into one end as a long piece, and router-smooth blanks come out of the other on a continuous basis, is the holy grail.

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2 hours ago, Vodkaman said:

Dale - I have designed a copy carver (your style of machine) but I I had to give up my house just as I was about to build it. The idea was to rough out the blanks on my duplicator and then cut the detail on the copy carver.

I also have another m/c design for cutting lips using the copy carver method.

I like your thinking. It is similar to mine and a few others on this site, Hazmail springs to mind, but there are others. There is much satisfaction when a m/c idea comes to life, even better than catching your first fish on a home-made.

Dave

 

From my perspective I really DO appreciate your efforts Dale, been there and done that.

After 2 years, what I thought Was good is crap, I am up to about Mk 4 version and now  getting acceptable blanks,  BUT still ''tweaking' this thing .  

I'm now trying to make the wiring look a bit more organized as only I can follow it :huh::D. If you are thinking of getting into this, go for all 12 or 18 Volt, which makes it safe and very easy to procure powerful / reversible motors etc - steer clear of 100v (or 240V ) ---------to get the power and versatility with 100V (or 240V) will  cost you a fortune-----------AND  12-18V  is  a lot quieter.

Finally I can slide a  6' OR  8' stick of wood in and stand back and wait for 10  or 15 blanks @ 120 mm, 80mm or 60mm OR any size in between, blanks to pop out---I've now got it down to  about 3 to 3.5 mins to get a good  blank.

It's taken over my life, BUT gee it's been a learning curve.

Pete

Edited by hazmail
Miss spelling
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Pete - good job on solving the feed, I haven't even looked at that yet. Good advice on the power issue, I second that; cheap, simple and safe.

Mark - exactly right regarding the cutters. Shifting a lot of material with the router, you soon lose the edge, and the bits are very expensive. With a saw, you can get at least 100 blanks cut, and buy the disks in five packs and very cheap. I bet it is even possible to hone up the cutter teeth, but it is just not worth the effort.

Dave

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Thanks all, Dave it was fun to make it...but brother when it came to catching the first really good size fish last year from a bait that I designed, shaped, got the depth I wanted. WOW, there wasn't to many times I got that wound up. There has been times that I was worst tho.....:flame:

Pete, the tweaking the design got me interested. This has the original bit in it that I started with. It is still ok after about 20 baits. I have a cone shape that seems to be better then this one. Interesting to make something better.  Y'all are right about the blades compared to the bits in cost.

LOL JR, I was thinking about doing the lights. But I was getting at it with those jigs and never got around to it. Needed have all of them painted. Hmmm, think I'll do that next year. With other baits around it. It would make a interesting Christmas Card. American tradition, don't know if other areas of the world do this.

Dave, them bearing came from the skate board. Some of those boards have some quality bearings. :)

It just to bad some of us that like things like this couldn't set around together and put our ideas together. It's fun to do, for sure!

Thanks again,

Dale :ph34r:

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