D.harper603 Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Hey guys I'm new here and I have been turning some baits on my lathe that are of the slammer/pats/ tsunami style and I'm just curious what my best options are for sealers that I can paint over? I've read about sanding sealer but I'm not sure if that's my best route to go. Any and all info is appreciated. If this question has already been asked please point me in the proper direction. Thanks derek Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffbossn Posted January 17, 2017 Report Share Posted January 17, 2017 Welcome Derek, I am very new here and unfortunatly wont be able to help much but Id say google theres tons of info onthis subject, I am also looking for a good seal/prime/paint/topcoat combo myself! may i ask how you got such nice cuts on your lures? i am heavily struggling with this right now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigginpig Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 I'm thinking I might know what he used. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordanlures Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 I use a mix of polyurethane and mineral spirits 50/50 that i dip for 10 minutes let dry then coat with a rust oleum base coat, airbrush acrylic then top with etex lite and have had good results but here are almost as many methods as there are builders , you just have to find what works for you hope this helps and welcome David 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.harper603 Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 5 hours ago, jigginpig said: I'm thinking I might know what he used. Haha I've been reading some posts on here and you know exactly what I did man! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 44 minutes ago, D.harper603 said: Haha I've been reading some posts on here and you know exactly what I did man! So share your method...don't leave us hanging. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffbossn Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 1 hour ago, mark poulson said: So share your method...don't leave us hanging. this Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordanlures Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 looks like you left the end square blocks on and run it through the tables saw with the blade set at an angle. Just guessing David J 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jigginpig Posted January 18, 2017 Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 yep. Left the ends square and run it through the table saw. You can see the tooth marks splayed left and right in the slot for the bill. The teeth in the blade are set like that. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.harper603 Posted January 18, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 18, 2017 Yes leave the ends square on each end of your turning then set your desired angle on the table saw. It's easier if you have a locking fence on the saw. I try not to cut the joints completely through before I drill holes for eyes. Once I get the joint cut close I finish it up on the band saw. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordanlures Posted January 19, 2017 Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 I make this cut on a sled , just feels safer to me , kinda partial to the 10 digits i have and the blank seems more stable and I get a more accurate cut. David J. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ravenlures Posted January 19, 2017 Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 One thing that I did I went to the local saw sharpening place and had a square blade tip saw made and made it to the width I needed for the lip thickness, and made it a few thousands wider for play in putting in the lip. It left the bottom of the lip area square which helps in keeping the lip also square with lure. At the time the blade cost $60.00 and I am still using it. One other thing measure from the lip to the back of the lure for accuracy, when you turn down a lure unless it is perfect center to center it will be off. One other I was cutting cedar so I put tape over the area that I was cutting, kept from chipping out. Hope this helps in one way or another. Wayne 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffbossn Posted January 19, 2017 Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 23 hours ago, jigginpig said: yep. Left the ends square and run it through the table saw. You can see the tooth marks splayed left and right in the slot for the bill. The teeth in the blade are set like that. forensic evidence.. I like it lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffbossn Posted January 19, 2017 Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 Now that I have a lathe I can try this method, I saw a vid of a guy cutting a glide like bait on a bandsaw like it was warm butter with dental floss. good luck with the rest of your project as for sealer im gonna try this method asap and see how it works Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.harper603 Posted January 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 8 hours ago, Jordanlures said: I make this cut on a sled , just feels safer to me , kinda partial to the 10 digits i have and the blank seems more stable and I get a more accurate cut. David J. I just make sure to keep my fingers on the square sections and go very slow and do not rush my cuts. The joints I take a few passes on each so I don't go to deeper than I need to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.harper603 Posted January 19, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 14 minutes ago, hoffbossn said: Now that I have a lathe I can try this method, I saw a vid of a guy cutting a glide like bait on a bandsaw like it was warm butter with dental floss. good luck with the rest of your project as for sealer im gonna try this method asap and see how it works The band saw is a great tool to have. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffbossn Posted January 19, 2017 Report Share Posted January 19, 2017 I think im gonna get a little compound miter saw for cute like this, is that a good idea? and for your seal and top coat you can try envirotex i have just seen its name everywhere if you gget your proportions down its gonnabe good stuff for whatever application... idk if the light stuff means anything or not though,... sorry about hijaking the thread a bit lol 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.harper603 Posted January 20, 2017 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 (edited) Did some harder searching on google and you tube and found that some salt water plug builders use a mixture of spar urethane and mineral spirits like jordanlures suggested as well. Seems like a lot of guys use this method. Edited January 20, 2017 by D.harper603 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffbossn Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 I heard alot about waterlox marine stuff. spendy but it has good penetration and is trusted. if i splurge ill let you know how it works. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 On 1/19/2017 at 8:18 AM, hoffbossn said: I think im gonna get a little compound miter saw for cute like this, is that a good idea? and for your seal and top coat you can try envirotex i have just seen its name everywhere if you gget your proportions down its gonnabe good stuff for whatever application... idk if the light stuff means anything or not though,... sorry about hijaking the thread a bit lol First of all, use a sharp blade and go slow. Any skil saw (that's all a compound miter saw is) can grab and jam the work piece, which puts your hands in the danger zone real fast. Just be sure and leave enough wood uncut in the joints so you don't get any sag, which will cause binding and throw back. Not a good thing. When I made multijointed swimbaits, I cut the joints on the table saw while the bland was still rectangular, so it was fully supported by the saw table. I use a band saw to cut joints now, or just a dovetail saw in a wooden miter box. In jointed baits, close counts. It doesn't have to be perfectly symmetrical to work. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 20, 2017 Report Share Posted January 20, 2017 On 1/19/2017 at 8:18 AM, hoffbossn said: I think im gonna get a little compound miter saw for cute like this, is that a good idea? and for your seal and top coat you can try envirotex i have just seen its name everywhere if you gget your proportions down its gonnabe good stuff for whatever application... idk if the light stuff means anything or not though,... sorry about hijaking the thread a bit lol First of all, use a sharp blade and go slow. Any skil saw (that's all a compound miter saw is) can grab and jam the work piece, which puts your hands in the danger zone real fast. Just be sure and leave enough wood uncut in the joints so you don't get any sag, which will cause binding and throw back. Not a good thing. When I made multijointed swimbaits, I cut the joints on the table saw while the bland was still rectangular, so it was fully supported by the saw table. I use a band saw to cut joints now, or just a dovetail saw in a wooden miter box. In jointed baits, close counts. It doesn't have to be perfectly symmetrical to work. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jordanlures Posted January 21, 2017 Report Share Posted January 21, 2017 On 1/19/2017 at 10:18 AM, hoffbossn said: I think im gonna get a little compound miter saw for cute like this, is that a good idea? and for your seal and top coat you can try envirotex i have just seen its name everywhere if you gget your proportions down its gonnabe good stuff for whatever application... idk if the light stuff means anything or not though,... sorry about hijaking the thread a bit lol With the E-Tex light pay close attention to the mixing instructions, where most people have problems with bad results is due to improper mixing , it is critical to get it well mixed , and a bait turner is almost essential, although some of the folks on here have enough commitment to turn there baits every 30 min or so for the first couple of hrs with reported success (I am not one of those guys) I would forget or get distracted, but good luck and show us your results in the gallery, everyone here loves to see hand crafted wood baits. Let the shavings fly and tight lines. David J. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hoffbossn Posted January 23, 2017 Report Share Posted January 23, 2017 On 1/20/2017 at 8:26 AM, mark poulson said: In jointed baits, close counts. It doesn't have to be perfectly symmetrical to work. my gawd I have tried telling myself this many times but I do not want to believe myself lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 7 hours ago, hoffbossn said: my gawd I have tried telling myself this many times but I do not want to believe myself lol The thing to keep in mind is freely moving hinges, as centered, from side to side, as you can get them. I use (2) sst screw eyes and bicycle spokes for hinge pins, and that lets me adjust the joint after the bait has been tested. I've found that, in a multi-joint bait, the tail joint is the only one that wants to be really loose. The others need to be somewhat limited, or they will jam when the bait hits the water on the cast. Being able to adjust the joints while I'm test swimming the baits is critical for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishon-son Posted January 24, 2017 Report Share Posted January 24, 2017 On 1/17/2017 at 0:37 PM, D.harper603 said: Hey guys I'm new here and I have been turning some baits on my lathe that are of the slammer/pats/ tsunami style and I'm just curious what my best options are for sealers that I can paint over? I've read about sanding sealer but I'm not sure if that's my best route to go. Any and all info is appreciated. If this question has already been asked please point me in the proper direction. Thanks derek where do you get your tails Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
