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dog1660

Airbrush problems

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I have just recently run into a problem with my Paasche LV air brush having a cyclic sputtering problem. The paint passages are all clear and clean and I have even changed the nozzle, tip, and needle. All the paint passages are in good shape but it continues to shoot, choke, shoot, choke in a cycle. The more trigger you give it the faster it will cycle. I pulled a bunch of garbage out of it the first time it came apart and have gone through it completely about 10 times, tore it down to just the body and rebuilt it over and over but the problem continues. It seems like an internal air passage problem within the body of the gun. Any ideas ???? 

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Use createx airbrush restorer for end of day cleanup. Do not thin your paint in the bottle - it forms clumps after a while. If you save any thinned paint for later use, use a separate airtight container - like a test strip or drug bottle.  Use airbrush paint. thoroughly rinse before cleaning - including backwash - with water. Back wash your brush - spray airbrush restorer through, put the cap on the front and blow crud out backward. Sputtering is usually caused by paint supply, not air supply. 

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There are only so many variables that could be the cause.

1.  Air brush itself...bad nozzle/needle, interior crack (very unlikly)

2. Dirty air brush

3. Bad/thick paint

4. Bad air pressure

Of course, I left off the one that continues to plague me...operator error.  Hahaha

Seriously, something's causing it, so just go step-by-step and check each variable.  You'll find it eventually, unless, of course, it is the other sock.

 

 

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A cheap way to filter airbrush paint is to cut small squares out of a pair of your wife/girlfriends old pantyhose. Get them to give you an old pair because they don't like having little squares cut out of the ones they're currently wearing. Women are funny like that.

Cit the squares large enough that they will fit over the neck of the paint bottle and screw the lid back on. When you tighten the lid it will hold the filter in place.

Ben

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Some clogs can be hard to remove.  I've thought my brush was clean and just to make sure, soaked it in airbrush cleaning solution for 24 hrs to be sure.  I was shocked to see the amount of junk the cleaner found.

I'd also check the air supply to make sure it isn't pulsing.  If you trigger the brush without paint in it you should be able to tell if the air supply is constant by listening to it.

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Bob brings up a good point. If your still having issues after installing a new needle and nozzle then your problems may not be clog related. What type of compressor are you using? Does it have an air reservoir or is it an on demand type compressor that only turns on when you start painting? If it's the latter then it probably means the compressor your using isn't keeping up with the demands your putting on it. 

If it were me I would first invest in a bottle of Createx Airbrush Restorer (it's much cheaper than a new compressor)and soak the airbrush in it for at least a few hours. Overnight is even better. The restorer will loosen dried paint that regular cleaners won't dissolve. If the restorer doesn't remove anything then your airbrush is indeed clean and it's time to think about buying a new compressor that will put out enough air to meet your needs. Preferably one with a holding tank so you never encounter this "pulsing" problem again.

Ben

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Thank you guys for your replies and ideas. I really like the idea of using the panty hose to screen the paint right from the bottle. For the longest time I have been just straining the paint at the cup. The wife keeps me in good supply of paint strainers...lol. The compressor I have been using is a tank style and runs up to 80lbs, air supply is never a problem. I did finally get mad enough and decided its time for an upgrade and purchased a Paasche Talon gravity feed gun. Wow what a difference, that is one hell of an airbrush. I plugged it  into my current setup and it worked very nice. Absolutely a fine tool to use. Sometimes it pays, just to pay a little more. I should have done this years ago. Thanks again for all the input. 

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I have two single action Badger 200 that pulse just like Dog's does. With out paint hooked up the air won't pulse any, but as soon as I connect the bottom feed paint it starts pulsing. The more air I give the faster the pulsing. I got one of them to work again correctly by soaking in Lacquer thinner. Hasn't worked so far on the other one. It's not the air supply as it is running from a storage tank. It is in the airbrush.  Even does it with clean water instead of paint. I have replaced the needle and two head parts that the needle goes through. Does anyone know what chemical the restorer is? Does it cut better than lacquer thinner. I always thought Lacquer thinner was the strongest cleaner available. This is a real problem within the airbrush and not related equipment. Thanks for any ideas on removing the paint. I am not worried about the outside look of the airbrush from problems with lacquer thinner. 

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The ab cleaner I use is water based, not a volatile solvent.  I presume it contains detergent and emulsifiers to soften any hardened paint rather than only a solvent to dissolve them.  You have to answer a couple of questions if the problem persists.  Have you used a modified acrylic finish like Future floor polish?  It dries to a really hard durable mass that might require specialized chemicals to remove.  Also, if your brush is a syphon type, have you also cleaned the part that fits on the paint jar?  Disassemble the brush and start from where the paint begins and through the brush to the tip.  If it's all clean, there's a different problem.  Maybe the ab trigger valve is fluttering.  Maybe you mixed up the tips and needles and have a mismatch.  Maybe your new needle and tip are damaged or bent.  Airbrushes are pretty simple machines really and there are a limited number of areas that can cause problems.

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BobP Thanks for your reply. I have not sprayed Future through the AB. I have removed the head and run a pipe cleaner through the passage from pickup to head end. I also ran it through the plastic tube in the paint bottle. Any one know of a schematic showing how paint runs through a head of a Badger AB. Although both of my AB's are 200 Badger the heads are totally different. One is actually a 200nh and the other is just a 200. They look the same from the out side but don't interchange for head parts. I know how air passes over a ventura and raises the paint but there is a lot more than that going on in a head, a lot of passages. Thank you

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Try breaking down your air brush and soaking it overnight in  Createx Air Brush Restorer.

http://www.coastairbrush.com/products.asp?cat=59

Scroll down four items and it's on the left.

Put it in a glass jar, and it will last forever.  The paint and crap that's cleaned out will just settle to the bottom and the restorer is still good to reuse.  I've been using the same restorer for years.

It's amazing the amount of old paint it will loosen, even after I think I've done a good job cleaning.

I soak my brush whenever it gets difficult to paint with, usually every three months+-.

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I keep a jar of lacquer thinner on the bench to clean paint brushes.  It has a hardened crust of paint at the bottom, which makes me wonder if soaking an airbrush in lacquer thinner is enough to get it really clean.  I know airbrush restorer/cleaner works.  

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