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jbrandon47

Help with re-paint!!

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I've been painting my own crankbaits using Createx Paint (transparent white as primer coat) and DN-S81 as a clear coat and have noticed that as I'm fishing them and as the finish chips off from hit rocks or whatever that the original color show through. What I mean is the primer coat I put on and all comes off as the finish but the original color does not. How do I solve this? Should I clear coat after I prime the bait? Is there a way to completely remove the original color?

 

Thanks for the help! What a great site.

Edited by jbrandon47

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If you're painting wooden baits, the original paint is still protecting the bait, even after your paint job chips, so that's a good indicator of when you need to stop fishing that bait and repair it.

If it's a plastic bait, there's no such worries.

Either way, if you want to prevent/minimize chipping, you need to find a way to toughen up your top coat.  I have never used DN-S81, so I don't know how to advise you with that.

I don't think it's possible to make a bullet/rock-proof bait that actually catches fish, so maybe just figure you'll have to do some touchup after each trip out.

I find clear nail polish is an effective patch repair, until I finally have to repaint the lure.

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It sounds like you are reprinting your old lures?  If so, you might need to scuff up or remove the original paint. Or use a adhesion promoter prior to your primer coat.  I' m sure one of the painter's will chime in soon.

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hi . you need a primer that bites into a factory finish. .a solvent based primer will solve this issue. we do re-paints here on wood and plastic baits. that should solve your issue.

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4 hours ago, jbrandon47 said:

Woodieb8 - What solvent based primer do you recommend? I have read a lot of people use white spray can Rustoleum as a primer. Is this solvent based?

Their X2 white primer is great, and is solvent based.  You need a respirator when you spray it, or do it outside downwind.  

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The can says 24 hours at room temperature, but it says you can recoat anytime in the first 30+- minutes.

I spray a bait lightly outside in front of my garage, wait 10 minutes, and then recoat.  If another coat is needed, I wait another 10 and then hit it again.  Generally two coats is plenty, because it is really high in solids, so it covers really well.

I usually paint mid day or early afternoon, when it's the warmest part of the day.  

Once I've got my coats on it, I let it hang in my garage to off gas most of the solvent, and then take the bait upstairs and hang it next to my computer overnight .  

It is ready to paint the next day, but I hit the primed bait with my hair dryer before I start my painting, just in cast there's any solvent left.

I've begun using the X2 Gloss as a top coat, and it works really well.  I follow the same procedures as with the solvent, including hanging the finished lure inside overnight.  I let the bait sit another day before I fish it, just to be sure that it has really cured.

I've made quite a few baits with that as a top coat now, and it has held up to a close to 20" striper that bit right at the boat, and bit so hard it bent one of the tines on my #4 KVD short shank treble to the side, like I had T'd the treble.

I still use Solarez for my balsa baits, because I think it is a harder finish that protects the soft wood better.

Edited by mark poulson

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To remove all the paint on a PLASTIC bait . I put it in a solvent proof container and I put in Denatured alcohol. Stop just before the bill. If it goes on the bill it will leave the plastic chalky white and it will not come off. Leave it in there for 2, 3 or 4 hours, depending on the thickness of your clear coat. The paint will just crack and literally fall off. It does not melt or disfigure the plastic. The body will have a chalky white residue you can smooth down with a scotch bright pad then repaint your lure. 

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We (the group here) tried getting paint off of manufacturers paint job like what you have there G rosa. Is yours a water base paint? The baits did ok (didn't melt) in denatured alcohol but didn't remove it. We progressively went to a stronger solvents that didn't work.

I blast them now, I have only did a few so far. I may try a old wooden bait, I just don't think this is the right at tho.

Dale

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Dale,

 

what are you blasting them with? I tried an air eraser with eax5 compound and it did work when you turned the PSI up high enough but it still took a long time. While I love the results of having the manufacturers paint completely gone before I paint, it just took a long time (5 - 10 minutes per bait) and was pretty messy too. Sort of like being in an invisible sand storm haha. I'm thinking putting a solvent based primer on is going to be much quicker than trying to strip the bait. Unless I need to strip the bait for weight reasons of course. Then I guess I'll just charge a little extra. 

 

Thoughts?

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DaleSW, You are correct. This will only work on water base painted lures.

On some lures I blast off the paint with Black beauty or salt at 45 psi in a blast cabinet.

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Sorry it took me a little time to get back. The people here turned me on to backing soda. Works pretty good and this depends on the grain size, some are a little more course then others. If you don't have a paint booth or cabinet be ready for somewhat of a mess.

I did the same and bought a hobby blaster from Harbor Freight. LOL it's surprising me, I bought it just to start learning how to do this, still doing well. It will rough the plastic just a little. As Mark suggest, a quick dip in acetone will clean it up or a good water cleaning with dawn dish detergent and a rinse. Let it completely dry and maybe a little heat treatment can help.

Dale

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