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mark poulson

same size multi cavity jig mold?

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13 hours ago, cadman said:

Mark, I have  never seen a Do-It Arky mold with multiple cavities of the same size. I do know that Hilts mold had one years ago, as a buddy of mine had one. If you find out, I am interested as well. Especially if you find one in 3/4 oz.

Ted and Mr. B,

My pouring buddy is going to check the numbers on the molds and get back to me.  

I'll share them as soon as he gives them to me.

Hazel.

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Well, bad news.  My buddy  just emailed me to say the same size multi cavity football head molds don't have a number on them.

And I was misremembering .  The Arkie and Sparkie molds he has are the ones with different sizes.  I guess it's just CRS again!

I have no clue why they stopped making the same size multi cavity molds, but they did.

The only pro series same size multi cavity molds on the Do-It site that I could find now are in the round head jigs.

Sorry for raising false hopes.

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Hey Mark,

     No problem. Over the years I have tried on and off sporadically to pour multiple cavities in a mold. It was troublesome, due to the fact you have to load all the cavities with different size hooks. It was very cumbersome and time consuming. Then I tried to pour multiple cavities of the same size jig (ie Do-It round heads), and found it slow as well, as you still have to load all the hooks, and if one hook shifts, the mold halves won't close, so then the other hooks fall out or shift as well. That was cumbersome to me as well. Now I only pour one cavity at a time, and it seems to go very fast.  Just my thoughts on it.

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1 hour ago, cadman said:

Hey Mark,

     No problem. Over the years I have tried on and off sporadically to pour multiple cavities in a mold. It was troublesome, due to the fact you have to load all the cavities with different size hooks. It was very cumbersome and time consuming. Then I tried to pour multiple cavities of the same size jig (ie Do-It round heads), and found it slow as well, as you still have to load all the hooks, and if one hook shifts, the mold halves won't close, so then the other hooks fall out or shift as well. That was cumbersome to me as well. Now I only pour one cavity at a time, and it seems to go very fast.  Just my thoughts on it.

That's the same thing my buddy said about pouring the Arkie and Sparkie molds.  

We fish mainly 3/8 and 1/2 oz, so he loads two hooks at a time, and says he goes faster than with the multi cavity 3/8 oz football mold.

Have you ever tried using magnets to hold your hooks in place?

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8 minutes ago, mark poulson said:

That's the same thing my buddy said about pouring the Arkie and Sparkie molds.  

We fish mainly 3/8 and 1/2 oz, so he loads two hooks at a time, and says he goes faster than with the multi cavity 3/8 oz football mold.

Have you ever tried using magnets to hold your hooks in place?

I tried magnets years ago and it didn't work for me. Any magnet on the outside of the mold would have to be strong enough to hold the hook in place . Since the molds are alum., I found that the magnet wouldn't conduct through the 1" thick alum. Any magnets on the inside would have to be very thin and permanently affixed to the mold, probably in the pocket where the hook bend sits. Taping the magnet on will not work, because of the extreme heat temp the mold gets. All the tapes I've tried did not work, because of adhesive failure.  I've given this a lot of thought on and off over the years. I haven't tried everything, but so far no real inventions or light bulbs have entered my mind as of yet.

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I agree with Cadman, pouring multiple cavities is slower for me. I tried it many times with my production ball head molds, I'd load the hooks and then over pour each cavity so I'd end up with a single large connected sprue and I'd be able to pull all the heads out at 1 time. But after I'd get all the heads I wanted done I'd spend another 45 minutes cutting all the jigs free from the sprue, between the time it took to load the mold with hook and the time spent cutting jigs free I did better pouring 1 at a time.

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On 2/18/2017 at 8:51 AM, cadman said:

I tried magnets years ago and it didn't work for me. Any magnet on the outside of the mold would have to be strong enough to hold the hook in place . Since the molds are alum., I found that the magnet wouldn't conduct through the 1" thick alum. Any magnets on the inside would have to be very thin and permanently affixed to the mold, probably in the pocket where the hook bend sits. Taping the magnet on will not work, because of the extreme heat temp the mold gets. All the tapes I've tried did not work, because of adhesive failure.  I've given this a lot of thought on and off over the years. I haven't tried everything, but so far no real inventions or light bulbs have entered my mind as of yet.

Drill the mold and gentley press in a cylinder magnet. 

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1 hour ago, Bob La Londe said:

Just remember that magnets tend to be more brittle than steel or aluminum.  A hole you could easily press a stainless steel pin into would cause a magnet the same size to shatter. 

You can drill the holes a little oversized, and use a little JB weld to seat the magnets so you won't fight to get them in without breaking.

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I don't recall what the heat rating for JB is, but there are some high heat formulations of loctite for sleeve locking.   You won't find them at your local autoparts mass marketer, but good industrial suppliers like McMaster-Carr will have them.   A little oversize for this application might be .001.  Hard to find drill bits .001 over standard sizes.  Fortunately you don't have to buy a whole set of reamers to get a single over reamer these days.  Make sure to measure your magnets before drilling.  Don't assume they are any form of precision to their claimed diameter. 

Drill under and ream to size.  Always gives you good holes if you aren't ham handed. 

 

 

 

Edited by Bob La Londe
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