MuskyGary Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Want to know if screw eyes will work in balsa woos. Don't want to use through wire. I'm thinking if I put the screw eyes in first, then seal the body, paint etc. that will help hold them in the soft wood? Anyone have expierence with this? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nedyarb Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Never had one pull out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 3, 2017 Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 I run the screw eye in, back it out, put some runny super glue into the hole and us a small wire to get as much as possible down as far as possible. The runny stuff soaks into the wood around the hole, and strengthens it. Then, once the runny stuff has set, I coat the screw eye with gap filling super glue and run it in again. I've never had one fail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuskyGary Posted March 3, 2017 Author Report Share Posted March 3, 2017 Thanks guys, That's what I was hoping for! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post BobP Posted March 4, 2017 Popular Post Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) I use hand wound screw eyes, make them longer than normal, then install them into drilled holes with paste epoxy. Whatever way you install screw eyes in balsa, pull-out is usually not a problem but water infiltration can be. Installing them before you start the finish process is definitely helpful. Now, if you are building musky crankbaits as your name suggests, you'll be held to a higher standard of strength and waterproofness due to wear and tear. Maybe a thru-wire would save a big musky getting off by snapping your lure in half. The lure would be useless afterward but at least that big one might not get away. In the end, it's player's choice Edited March 4, 2017 by BobP 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RayburnGuy Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Well said Bob. Ben Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfk9 Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) Mark when you refer to "runny" & "gap filling" super glues what are they ie. a brand or viscosity rating ..iv'e looked at my local lumber stores & big box stores have yet to find a a viscosity rating for runny, medium or thick...of course I'm a tile contractor not a carpenter.. i know they are out there just not sure where..thanks, michel Edited March 4, 2017 by surfk9 left a word out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 1 hour ago, surfk9 said: Mark when you refer to "runny" & "gap filling" super glues what are they ie. a brand or viscosity rating ..iv'e looked at my local lumber stores & big box stores have yet to find a a viscosity rating for runny, medium or thick...of course I'm a tile contractor not a carpenter.. i know they are out there just not sure where..thanks, michel Michel, I use ZAP thin and gap filling super glue. I get it online. Graphaids carries it in some locations. I usually just google it when I run low, and find an online store that delivers. Get a bottle of the accelerant to use to set the gap filling glue, once you have your hardware or lips in position. Acetone is the solvent if you get your fingers stuck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) Mark, can't you thin down superglue? I don't use soft woods tho, but curious. Some people thin it down to put on the exterior of a wooden blank to seal it. (i.e.; Dave). I do understand why you would want it thin so it could penetrate into wood a tad, per your statement. Dale p.s., if the answer is yes would it be worthwhile to do this way or buy it your way. I would think that you have evolved to this for a reason. Edited March 4, 2017 by DaleSW Added to comment Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 (edited) No real need to thin super glue except to extend potential working time. Super glue readily soaks into balsa based on the properties of the wood. Th super glue rapidly wick up the glue by capillary action into open "pores" of the tracheids and trachea of the xylem. Essentially you a packed array of straws, consisting of mainly very small diameters (tracheids) and larger straws (trachea). Our baits are made with these running horizontally the length of the bait. Line ties and tail hook hangers will run parallel with the "straws". One can visualize what occurs when you predrill and then screw the eye screw in and out. You score open several of these "straws" allowing superglue to run into these areas and set up. Horizontal you pass through and open up all those chambers for glue to fill/affix. Best bet is use the super glue in low humidity as it is a moisture cure product. Some of the epoxy boat rot repair products will use balsa to demonstrate the intrusion/wicking process extending 12 inches or more upon application up a plank of balsa. SEM image of balsa wood below. While these openings are small you have to remember their function. They transport water/minerals. Edited March 4, 2017 by Travis 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SW Lures Posted March 4, 2017 Report Share Posted March 4, 2017 Well there is the scientist. Yes I knew that balsa is porous at a microscopic level and that's why it's so light. Which makes a bait made from balsa is so vulnerable to hydrodynamic pressures of water flowing around the bait. I do like the time factor to allow you to get parts in place. However that has not been much of a problem for me. Thinning also bothers me due to a possibility of weaking the glue/epoxy bond. I would think if it is manufactured that way the glue should be comparable to a regular type. With this being stated, harder woods, resins would have tighter pores and/or less pores/capillaries for the glue to bond with. Very nice post Travis. Dale Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
osutodd Posted March 6, 2017 Report Share Posted March 6, 2017 I glued in 3/4 inch sections of poplar dowel rod and put screw eyes into that. When we were pulling them apart to test it, the screw eyes were opening up before they puled out. We were well over 80 lbs before anything ever failed with that method. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
surfk9 Posted March 8, 2017 Report Share Posted March 8, 2017 thanks Mark...i"ll definitely be checking out those products...michel 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
