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BrianB

Swimbait pouring question..

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I made a top pour silicone mold of a 8 inch swimbait that I carved.  It has the standard wide head then tapers down to the tail.  The dilemma I am having is pouring in layers.  Through the transparent bottom layer I can see The top layer is sinking into the transparent bottom belly layer..    I understand the concept of if you pour too soon the top layer will sink into the bottom layer and if you wait too long your layers will separate..  The side side seams are fine but you can see the top layer through the bottom layer sagging down 1/4 inch or a little more?  Ive seen other baits in this style and I see no sinking so I know I am missing something.  Any help...

Edited by BrianB

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I am not so sure about the idea that you get separation if you wait too long.  I have no issues and find that the alumisol products I use melt and adhere just fine.  Try waiting a little longer for the first layers to cool a bit more.

Yes, I know that many claim it can separate, but...... I have never experienced it.  Maybe my second layer is hotter then others????

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Anglingarcher,  well that is also a double edge sword,  if you have it hot hot on the top layer the top layer will sink at the top of the pour (top view of the bait)  at least for me it does.   So I'm trying to counter that with lower heat.  Lol. Double edge sword so far for me anyway 

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I've read here about a bonder/glue that can be used to make "cold" laminates stick, but I've never tried it.

I just pour the first part, let it cool a little, and then pour the second over it at 335 degrees+-.  The hot plastic seems to stick well enough for me.

It's not an exact thing for me, because I'm only pouring for me.

I always heat and color both my colors first, and then reheat to pour.

I'll line up five 2 cavity silicone swimbait molds, pour the first part in each, and then heat my second color and pour them.

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Mark,  I'm in this for production eventually.  So you glue the top of the first layer before pouring the next layer? Or is this some magical mix that you mix in with your plastic LOL  If it helps I'm using Lure craft medium.  Since I am using a temp gun I'm pouring the first layer at about 340 to 350.   I'm pouring the 2nd layer when that first layer starts to show (going off memory here so bare with me) around 280?  Demold at 160ish..    do these numbers sound right (anyone??)

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23 minutes ago, BrianB said:

Mark,  I'm in this for production eventually.  So you glue the top of the first layer before pouring the next layer? Or is this some magical mix that you mix in with your plastic LOL  If it helps I'm using Lure craft medium.  Since I am using a temp gun I'm pouring the first layer at about 340 to 350.   I'm pouring the 2nd layer when that first layer starts to show (going off memory here so bare with me) around 280?  Demold at 160ish..    do these numbers sound right (anyone??)

Brian, I haven't tried the glue.  I just pour one onto the other.  

But I just pour for myself and my buddies.  I have no idea what would work for production.

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18 hours ago, BrianB said:

  I'm in this for production eventually. 

 

Then move up to hand  injection / injection molds for consistent ,finished products w/out all the aforementioned rigamarole!

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There are some profitable companies doing hand open pours "en-mass."  I know its not for many people, but it can be done.   What amazes me is how much they sell for. 

 

 

Edited by Bob La Londe

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On ‎3‎/‎16‎/‎2017 at 1:02 PM, BrianB said:

Anglingarcher,  well that is also a double edge sword,  if you have it hot hot on the top layer the top layer will sink at the top of the pour (top view of the bait)  at least for me it does.   So I'm trying to counter that with lower heat.  Lol. Double edge sword so far for me anyway 

Double edge sword, seems to be the nature of our endeavor here.  LOL

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The key to mass or small production two layer pours is temperature control.  Different plastics formulas will require a small amount of temperature differences, but record the temperature and do it the same each time.  You will get it down in now time.

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 color selection can ease the "over lap" look

transpartent colors paired together, or opaque colors paired together..... Or an opaque bottom color with a transparent top color

you already seem to understand about temperature.. More heat = more problems... You can pour the top layer cooler if you do it while the bottom is still hot

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