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hoffbossn

Airbrush probs, eviro questions.

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Guys me again, So my Iwata HP CH is leaking a few drops of paint out of the paint control screw whats wrong here? anyone know any good iwata paint gun guides for my gun? what would be the best place to send this or where do I get parts to do it myself? and then I eventually did get a lure painted, used enviro on it, just mixed some A and some B evenly. the lure turner is pretty med speed id say about 6-8 rotations a minuite? when i got back to the lure turner the enviro gobbled up a ton on one side. I had the lure turner turning for 12 hours. It was also pretty cold outside I am in Portland Oregon. Any help to make that envirotex turn nicely? 

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If the turner works at 6 rpm you shouldn't have had any problem with the epoxy regardless of the orientation of the lure while rotating.  That speed should have kept the epoxy in situ.  Are you sure the epoxy did not pool to one side of the lure before you put it on the turner?  Did you apply a heavy coat, maybe too heavy, before turning the lure?  Something just doesn't seem right with the scenario to me.  If you applied the epoxy immediately after mixing it versus waiting for it to gel for 10-15 mins, it may have remained liquid long enough to migrate.

Edited by BobP
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I agree with Bob, something doesn't make sense.

Assuming A &B were of equal parts and they were mixed correctly.

Most likely it was applied to heavy and temp was too cold to flow properly.

From Data Sheet: For best results, coat at temperatures between 70° F and 80° F 

Edited by fshng2
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Just a guess on my part, but if everything is tight, I would think part 27-1 might be the problem with the leak. I use tools to tighten even though they say finger tight for most parts. Google your air brush and you will find suppliers of parts. I would probably buy that whole bottom part and make sure to get the right part.

 

 

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Hoffbossn:  To keep epoxy thin keep it warm (70/80F).

1. Before mixing, keep epoxy in a warm environment for a day or put it in warm water for a half hour.

2. For use in a cooler environment:

After mixing put mixing cup in a bigger container that is filled with warm water. This will keep epoxy thinner and it will flow out better.

Note: Apply a thin coat of epoxy with an oil free brush.

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Thats the lure turner, if you have any idea on how to get more lures on it LMK. Kinda rushed it cuz I just wanna finish a dang lure!!

SO for the envirotex,

warm it up

mix it evenly

let sit for 20 mins after mixing?

put on light coat, oil free brush.

( i think its here i messed up, as I glopped the stuff on I thought thats how it worked!)

Let turn 8 or some odd hours?

 

UNRELATED:

whats the best surface to paint  onto? a coat of etex or the wood with some glue in the pores?

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The leak has suprisingly stopped. Twas a small leak, and it may have been user error as the screw was backed out quite a bit, maybe it starts leaking on me again today we will see. But I bought an expensive brush for convince not complications!! it was used so maybe its my bad.

 

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Hoffbosn, cant see turner,sounds like to much epoxy on 1st coat. What works for me- warm bottles e-tex if cold, 5 mins in a  pot of hot water, Mix thoroughly, apply thinnish coat. I dont wait for epoxy to gel. No advantage for me ,if you leave sharpish edges you may want to try that, I dont leave sharp edges. A coat of e-tex can give you a perfect surface to paint .....glider

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Hoffbossn ,if your using elastic bands each end of lure and lure has a lot of ballast or weight away from centre ,i.e heavily biased away from centre line of where bands are fixed to lure eye, then when turner revolves the lure can try to stay with heavy side down (gravity) it then gets to a point where it has to flip over. This leads to epoxy building up on usually top or bottom of lure .  If you see this sort of flipping as lure revolves then you can have this problem........glider

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I assume you are using Envirotex Lite epoxy.  If so, there is a very good member submitted tutorial on using it by Fatfingers.  Epoxy is forgiving in that it levels out better than most topcoats but best practice is still that you want it on the lure in an even smooth coating of moderate thickness.  Etex is very slow to cure initially so there's no rush in doing that, even if you let it sit for 10-15 mins to expel bubbles before application.

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Yes give the heat gun a couple of quick passes ,to close and you can burn the e-tex,to hot and you can expand air inside lure which forces its way out and will produce tiny streams of bubbles for hours ! Leave for 10 minutes or so and repeat. Remember it's the carbon dioxide produced from heat gun rather than heat itself that bursts bubbles ,thats why you can burst them with your breath . I prefer heat gun. ,It takes practice to get e-tex right so don't be disappointed to start with ! Good luck.......glider

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I hesitate when you use the term "blast".  If you must, just pass a heat gun or hair dryer quickly over the surface from 6-12" away at the bubbles you see.  Too much heat will cause the epoxy to liquefy and run, or bubble.  It is mainly the CO2 from the heat gun that bursts bubbles.  I rarely put heat on epoxy, never on epoxy covering a wood bait.

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On 4/30/2017 at 6:26 PM, BobP said:

I hesitate when you use the term "blast".  If you must, just pass a heat gun or hair dryer quickly over the surface from 6-12" away at the bubbles you see.  Too much heat will cause the epoxy to liquefy and run, or bubble.  It is mainly the CO2 from the heat gun that bursts bubbles.  I rarely put heat on epoxy, never on epoxy covering a wood bait.



LOL!!! :P ya my vocab is of a youngin and I tend to exaggerate. I dont blast em just swift passes. 

MY AIRBRUSH THOUGH doesnt want to shoot wicked platnium! i just took it apart completelty and let it soak over night. Gonna put it back together and see whats going on. Just air comes out no paint. I even took out the needle and no paint WHAT THE HECK

so far airbrushing has really hurt me so far in this endeavor. maybe I shouldnt of bought used IDK 

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