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Landry

Devcon 2T epoxy problem

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I switched to 2T as etex lite would not stay on the sharper turns on my swimbait master. 

Well the 2T held those corners beautifully. Unfortunately, I did it in I my basement and I think it was too cold. 

Maybe I mixed too long - didn't time it but the cup got warm. And then the epoxy was hard to spread and brush was sticking. I panicked and coated the 10" bait as fast as I could. Got it covered but it is wavy and lumpy smooth in places. 

Any tips for the next coat after I sand this dam epoxy practically off. 

1. Do upstairs in warmer temps?

2. Should I thin with 100% alcohol?

i want to do one thinnish coat and get that clear glass look. This is for my master and going in an RTV mold. 

Thanks guys!!!

Landry

Edited by Landry
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Cold will slow down epoxy some, but not a lot.  Warmer temps will speed it up, so you will be going backwards by going to a warmer environment.

Thinning with alcohol makes it easier to apply a thin coat, but then it won't hold the edges as well.

Mix it as fast as possible while not mixing any more air in then is necessary.  Thin only if you don't need to cover edges well.  If you do thin, do one small batch and hit the edges only first.  Follow up on a total bait coat.

Etex is an epoxy so instructions work for both.

I hope this helps, but working with any clear coat is a matter of developing your own procedure and a bit of trial and error.  I think you mixed too long and it flashed on you.  Thinning with alcohol slows the cure a little, as does cooler temperatures, but in the end, well trial and error.

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The warmer it is, the faster it hardens so I don't think cold was the problem.  D2T is different from Etex and has a shorter working time.  If you mix it for one minute, you have about 3 minutes until it gets too hard to brush.  Adding a little denatured alcohol extends the work time by another minute.  That's quite different from Etex.  But my main reservation is that all epoxies tend to draw away from sharp edges as they cure - D2T and Etex included.  So I don't think you gained anything by switching epoxy brands.  I'd switch back to Etex if you have some and are familiar with its application.  It will create the thinner coating you are looking for.  And the thinness at edges shouldn't be an issue in a mold.  It doesn't disappear from an edge, it just gets thin and will wear faster there from abrasion.

I assume you used Devcon Two Ton epoxy and not the five minute Quick Cure variety.

Edited by BobP
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I found that the etex actually moves off the right radius edges entirely leaving a rough spot. The 2T covered everything but wow it cured fast. I thought I would have 5 min. 

Hopefully I can sand in my gill edges as it built up too much on those edges too.

 Can I carve the epoxy off those edges?

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I know this sounds contrary but I actually extend my application time of D2T with the same heat gun I use to dry paint between airbrush coats.   Quite often after I finish coating my baits and of course my D2T is starting to get a little stiff to brush on, I give my baits one final look over and observe a blemish.  I can pass the heat gun over my mixed D2T and make it flow nicely, brush some on at the blemish as best I can.  There will be brush marks at this point so I his the bait with the heat gun, all over but especially where I brushed and everything smooths out just great.

There is a point of diminishing returns of course but it is like you can re liquify it briefly or in the above case, may have been able to smooth it out on the lumpy application by using the heat gun.

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