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andy1976

Tube head hook eye position HELP

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I'm making myself a 40 cavity tube mold. It will be 3/8 1/2 and 3/4 oz mold. I need some opinions on the hook eye position.  Especially from people that fish tubes. This is the current layout.  Any changes you would make?  The only thing I see is maybe shifting the 3/4 oz eyelet up some bringing the body down the shank. 

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7 minutes ago, Jig Man said:

I'd want that largest one with a longer shank hook and the eye closer to the end.

How deep do you fish them?  I only use 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 and fish as deep as 50' in the winter.

I don't fish these. They're been fished in the california aquaduct and depending on flows they go up or down in weight. I think it's 30 foot deep on average. I fish 2 and 3 oz tube heads in the ocean.  Lol

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The hook position can't be determined just by the look. We would probably need to see the size of the tubes and the length of the tubes doesn't tell the story either, wall thickness and the size rod is was dipped on or the mandrel it was injected on would need to be known. I fish tubes a good bit and I use thin tubes, thick tubes, long and short tubes, it all depends but one thing you don't want to do is have the weight be too far down on the hook shank, that can cause hook up issues. The issue you will have with those weights is if you are trying to have them used on a 3.5" or 4" tube, and that is because you can go 2/0 on the 3.5" and a 3/0 on the 4" tube, any longer and the hook will be riding in the skirt portion of the tube and the hook point can then get covered by the plastic. If you look at Bite Me jigs, they make heavy weight tube heads that are used a lot by Great Lakes anglers, the heads are oversized and stuffed in the tube creating a bulbous head on the tube and while it looks crazy to me, the guys that fish there say it resembles a goby and that is part of the reason that works. I mention that because you may want to shorten the length of the weight and make it wider but you would either need to shift the hook off center or go with a 60 degree hook.

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7 hours ago, smalljaw said:

The hook position can't be determined just by the look. We would probably need to see the size of the tubes and the length of the tubes doesn't tell the story either, wall thickness and the size rod is was dipped on or the mandrel it was injected on would need to be known. I fish tubes a good bit and I use thin tubes, thick tubes, long and short tubes, it all depends but one thing you don't want to do is have the weight be too far down on the hook shank, that can cause hook up issues. The issue you will have with those weights is if you are trying to have them used on a 3.5" or 4" tube, and that is because you can go 2/0 on the 3.5" and a 3/0 on the 4" tube, any longer and the hook will be riding in the skirt portion of the tube and the hook point can then get covered by the plastic. If you look at Bite Me jigs, they make heavy weight tube heads that are used a lot by Great Lakes anglers, the heads are oversized and stuffed in the tube creating a bulbous head on the tube and while it looks crazy to me, the guys that fish there say it resembles a goby and that is part of the reason that works. I mention that because you may want to shorten the length of the weight and make it wider but you would either need to shift the hook off center or go with a 60 degree hook.

Thank you Smalljaw.  Most guys are using a 5 inch canyon plastics gitzit. I've been making the nontappered doit tube head with a 90 degree thin wire 5/0 hook and it works. I was planning on using the 32786 60 degree flipping hook on this mold. Its similar in size to the thinner wire 5/0 ive been using. Also was planning on being able to use both in the mold if possible. 

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