McNeilco Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Hey guys check out the link below.. if someone can make it show up without having to click the link that'd be awesome. i keep getting these inconsistent dents.. I've tried slower speed injecting, faster, more pressure after mold is full. Using ES beaver bug mold. Thanks for any help. Plastics around 345-355. http://tinypic.com/r/20utw7a/9 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpssports Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Try injecting at 320 & purge the injector before injecting. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McNeilco Posted July 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 I purge everytime, will try it at 320. How long should I let it sit in the mold? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Are you talking about the bubble trail in the ribbed area? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McNeilco Posted July 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 3 hours ago, Frank said: Are you talking about the bubble trail in the ribbed area? Yes sir! Any advice on how to get rid of that would be greatly appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MonteSS Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 (edited) Copy the Image tag and paste here. Prob just bad mold design Edited July 8, 2017 by MonteSS Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Frank Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Those are air getting trapped in the details of the mold. Is it a side inject molds and is that the top of the mold? I would try different plastics and see if that helps. Some plastic fill that type of mold better. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fshng2 Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Post a pic of the mold. Their should be a way to tweak the mold or process to remove the trapped air. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaveMc1 Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 inject that mold real slow. see if it helps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McNeilco Posted July 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 1 hour ago, Frank said: Those are air getting trapped in the details of the mold. Is it a side inject molds and is that the top of the mold? I would try different plastics and see if that helps. Some plastic fill that type of mold better. Injecting port is at the top. Maybe i will try to add some softner to the plastic as its a medium plastisol from do it molds, just bought a gallon of it.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 (edited) Top inject straight down into the cavity is always problematic. That being said I have an old Bears Baits mold that is top inject and does ok most of the time. I would note that Dave changed it to a side inject in later versions of the mold. I get guys all the time who think its clever to have a multiple cavity mold that has individual top sprues. The main reason is they think they can laminate baits that might be not easily molded to laminate with multiple cavity side inject or bottom inject. Some guys will swear they have a thousand molds that work that way perfectly 100% of the time and imply I must be stupid when I say that very often that doesn't work out well because the natural direction of the air is up against the flow of the plastic. Not out to the edges where you can place vents. It depends on cavity shape, but most of the time side inject or bottom inject seems to work best. The following is a dangerous test. If you are careless you can harm yourself. Molten plastic will easily burn you severely. If you have a bench vise try clamping the mold (not so hard as to damage the mold or crush the vents shut) in the vise and then try injecting from the side. After the mold is full hold gentle pressure for atleast 25-30 seconds. Make 100% certain the mold is completely frozen off before pulling the injector away. Tilt the inector up as you do, and make sure your feet are not under any part of the mold or injector. The last thing you want is to have molten plastic pour out on your feet. If you get a better quality bait that way then you know it should have been laid out differently. If you are just making this bait for your own use, don't bother with all that. Just go fishing. I guarantee you the fish don't care. Edited July 8, 2017 by CNC Molds N Stuff 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McNeilco Posted July 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Hey guys, So far thank you for all the response as it's been greatly appreciated and i will apply all the help to my next batch when i get home tonight. This is the mold i'm using again the ES Beaver Bug Mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McNeilco Posted July 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 I Guess this would technically be a Side inject? My bad y'all i'm new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 Yes, I would consider that a side inject. ~~~~~~~ I had to go look. I have that exact mold in my collection. I bought a few ES molds a while back to see what they looked like and form a first hand opinion. I actually have a small bag of baits in my little boat made from that mold. Every one of them had some trapped air bubbles when I inspected them. I assure you the fish didn't care. I caught fish with them. It does seem like the mold has inadequate venting to squeeze out the trapped air bubbles. I would think it would need to be either blade vented on the top side of the bait, or point vented at each body segment. I never worried about it with mine since I didn't really buy it to make baits so much as to just check it out along with two other ES molds. Like I said before. If its for your own use just crank out some baits and go fishing. FYI: My previous experiment may still be worth trying. It would effectively be turning it into a bottom inject mold. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 (edited) Another experiment to try is space the open end of the mold with a strip of paper. Printer paper averages about .003" thick. This would effectively blade vent the entire cavity. Well, more at one end and less at the other. You might get flashing around the bait this way, but if you get better baits peeling off some flashing might be worth it to you. The ES molds are in my opinion cheap mass produced molds. It doesn't mean they are bad. It just means they may not be as good as some other molds. I do not feel like I wasted any money on the ones I bought for my personal collection. I feel they are worth atleast as much as I paid for them. Edited July 8, 2017 by CNC Molds N Stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fshng2 Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 9 minutes ago, CNC Molds N Stuff said: Another experiment to try is space the open end of the mold with a strip of paper. Printer paper averages about .003" thick. This would effectively blade vent the entire cavity. Well, more at one end and less at the other. You might get flashing around the bait this way, but if you get better baits peeling off some flashing might be worth it to you. The ES molds are in my opinion cheap mass produced molds. It doesn't mean they are bad. It just means they may not be as good as some other molds. I do not feel like I wasted any money on the ones I bought for my personal collection. I feel they are worth atleast as much as I paid for them. Bob would it work if the following mod was done? Close off the existing gate with JB Weld. Machine a new injection port and gate to come in from the right hand side of the picture. Inject the modified mold with the new port positioned at the top. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McNeilco Posted July 8, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 thanks everyone! Going to return this mold to luremaking.com and get a CNC'd one as it sounds like CNC is honestly the only way to go for perfection. Being in canada I'm limited to molds as paying duty on molds would eat away my profit if I choose to sell them which is the game plan. Shojld i I stick with the ES plastic or switch to Aluminsol? I have access to both but want quality. Cheers guys. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted July 8, 2017 Report Share Posted July 8, 2017 I've used Chemionics, Calhoun's, Spike-It and M-F. They all have their good points. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 18 hours ago, CNC Molds N Stuff said: I've used Chemionics, Calhoun's, Spike-It and M-F. They all have their good points. I almost forgot I also tried both pthalate free and regular Polysol. I thought they both made good baits with minimal effort. Chad sent me samples of both a while back to try. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 I use those Essential molds and Baitjunky's medium degassed plastic, and don't get bubbles. Maybe you're stirring your plastic too hard. I use a metal coat hanger, bent so there are two long wires connected by an inch of flat at the bottom. It stirs without making bubbles. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
hpssports Posted July 9, 2017 Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 If you're in Canada, try Enforcer molds. They have a great selection & also located in Canada. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McNeilco Posted July 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 1 hour ago, mark poulson said: I use those Essential molds and Baitjunky's medium degassed plastic, and don't get bubbles. Maybe you're stirring your plastic too hard. I use a metal coat hanger, bent so there are two long wires connected by an inch of flat at the bottom. It stirs without making bubbles. This could also be my issue, I'm definitely stirring with a spoon or a flat head screw driver. Although when I withdraw plastic into the injector I don't see many bubbles Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McNeilco Posted July 9, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 9, 2017 I'm going to probably make a video of me making plastic tomorrow night I'll post it here so you can guys help me make some adjustments. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
McNeilco Posted July 11, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 11, 2017 (edited) Alright I'm going to go Down step by step on what I'm doing and what I'm using exactly for some critiqueing. Shake well ES Plastisol medium 8oz heat 30 seconds stir heat 30 seconds stir heat 30 seconds (gelatin stage) stir heat 30 seconds stir check temp around 320-340 at this stage. Add color, glitter etc.. Stir heat for 5 seconds to get back to that 320-340 area. suck up plastic inside bowl with injector squeeze out some plastic holding straight up and down. bring to mold inject mold even pressure the whole way through takes about 3 seconds to fill beaver bug ES Mold. top up sprue. Wait 2-4 minutes and inspect bait. still denting. Any help? So discouraging to keep having this happen, I've opened up the sprue a bit on the mold with a dremmel at this point aswell. I've got the Ripper coming in in about 2 weeks. Edited July 11, 2017 by McNeilco Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
