Mad Moose Baits Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 What do you prefer? A wire keeper to keep soft plastics in place or the molded triangular piece (or ring collar)? said I'd never pour lead.... look how that turned out.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smalljaw Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 I don't really have a preference, the wire keepers work well and so do lead barbs. I think a lot of it depends on the type of plastic and where you are using it. and the type of lead barb. I have some molds with a ball collar, for those I like adding a wire keeper but you can really deny how well a wire keeper holds but a good barb works as well. If I had to choose 1 I'd probably go with the wire keeper but like I said, if the jig has a good lead barb it will hold just as good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CNC Molds N Stuff Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) A wire keeper (screw lock, not hook) holds the bait more securely initially, but when it gets torn off the keeper the nose of the bait usually gets blown out. Its not an issue if its a bait you can just nip the nose off to get to a new fresh nose to screw the lock into. A cast lead barb works ok. Not as good as the screwlock, but not bad. The nose of the bait doesn't get blown out as bad, but it does get blown out. If you can rotate the bait, or nip off the end you are good to go and keep fishing. A single cone in my opinion doesn't hold as well as either, but a short stack of upto 3 cones holds pretty well. Better than a barb, and almost as good as a screw locks. The problem is to get really good castings with a stack of cones like that you need to run your lead very hot, get the mold hot, and possibly make the cones a little bigger than you might like. The last item limits you from using the smallest baits. A bait with adequate meat around the cones when its pushed on tends not to get blown out the first time, its pulled off, but it can. I personally do not like the wire hook keepers except for small finesse baits where nothing else will fit without distorting the bait. Many like the hold of a screw loc, but hate whipping the bait around the hook to screw it on. Some bait makers like a barb or a stack of cones because they don't require any other hardware to finish the bait. Ultimately, its a function of what the individual angler or bait maker likes. Oh, I see smalljaw has beat me to the reply button. I guess I'll see in a minute how much he disagrees with me. LOL. Edited July 28, 2017 by CNC Molds N Stuff Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mad Moose Baits Posted July 28, 2017 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Thanks guys, I am used to the barb that is part of the mold but was curious if there was a big advantage for the wires that are molded in. I think it will be a matter of fishing more and deciding based on what I see. Fishing more always seems to be a good plan. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBarlow Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 Love the wires that are molded in. I have modified one of my molds to accept a second one for better plastic retention. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cadman Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 (edited) I personally like the barb on the jig. Although they don't hold as well as the wire keepers, you can usually salvage any trailer and re-use them over and over again. Wire keepers after three or four times really damage the plastics, to the point making them useless. Edited July 28, 2017 by cadman Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted July 28, 2017 Report Share Posted July 28, 2017 I only do jigs for myself and my buddy, so this is not a production method, but it works for me. My buddy poured me some 5/8 sparky jigs, with no bait holders, so I came up with this to hold my plastics when I'm punching. I wrap some 24 ga. skirt wire into the shaft just behind the head, twist the tag ends up like I do when I'm wiring on a skirt, but with the twisted tags facing up. I cut the twisted tag so it's 3/4' -, and bend it back so it points to the hook point. I add some gap filling ZAP superglue to hold the wire up against the lead head. It holds because there is no strain on the wire. If it does come loose, I put another jig on, and reglue the wire when I get home. I thread the bait onto the wire twist, and then T rig the point into the body of the bait where it will hang straight. I keep the hook point buried, because the bass crush the bait and force the point out. It works for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EironBreaker Posted July 31, 2017 Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 I think the wire keepers work better for me over a molded in barb but they will tear up the plastic when catching fish. But usually plastics are pretty cheap. Not all but most. Screw-locks are the best but really can damage a bait if the bait is soft. As far as adding keepers, you can do it easily with thread and the wire keepers from Capt Hooks. Just wrap one on or if you really want it to hold, do two on opposite sides. Tie off the thread and coat with super glue or Hard as Nails. I've added keepers that way to buzzbaits to hold horny toads. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DaBehr Posted July 31, 2017 Report Share Posted July 31, 2017 I like the wire keepers. On molds that don't have them I cut off the lead bait holder up to the collar (which makes the bait a little lighter) and then wrap one of the wire keepers onto the shank with some heavy duty fly tying thread. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...