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Sealing Wood

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4 hours ago, mark poulson said:

I tried it years ago.  It works for one piece wooden baits, as long as you have a really strong, flexible top coat like Envirotex epoxy.

Thanks for the info. I have a one piece wood bait and I use Envirotex so I hoping for the best. 

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DoubleT, Minwax Wood Hardener works great. Cheap, brush it on or dip it. It seals the eye holes also. Hang it nose up if dipping and put a bent out paper clip on the tail hanger. Let it set for a day and sand it lightly (400). To make sure of something....we are talking about sealing the wood not the paint job right? If you are it's great for sealing the wood. More course wood I may wood put on more. I work with more dense wood. I put two coats on. It soaks into the wood on the first coat. I've got a few baits that are several years old, no water intrusion yet. I plan on using these in the spring, Striper run/spawn. I also test baits with this on it only.

Dale

ps, it does harden the wood. I took a framing hammer and gravel driveway on non finished and finish wood. You'll be happy with it.

Edited by DaleSW
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38 minutes ago, mark poulson said:

 

Use two coats  of Etex.

Will do. Thanks Mark

18 minutes ago, DaleSW said:

DoubleT, Minwax Wood Hardener works great. Cheap, brush it on or dip it. It seals the eye holes also. Hang it nose up if dipping and put a bent out paper clip on the tail hanger. Let it set for a day and sand it lightly (400). To make sure of something....we are talking about sealing the wood not the paint job right? If you are it's great for sealing the wood. More course wood I may wood put on more. I work with more dense wood. I put two coats on. It soaks into the wood on the first coat. I've got a few baits that are several years old, no water intrusion yet. I plan on using these in the spring, Striper run/spawn. I also test baits with this on it only.

Dale

ps, it does harden the wood. I took a framing hammer and gravel driveway on non finished and finish wood. You'll be happy with it.

Thanks for the info Dale. I plan on dipping it to seal it. I am going to  let it soak 10 seconds or so then hang it to dry. I may do a couple dips to apply a heavier layer. I will then scuff it up some with 400 grit, prime it then airbrush it. I use etex for my top coat. Again, Thanks for the info.

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Fellas-read the links I provided. Brushing on is a joke. Complete submersion allows you to watch all the small bubbles come from all the pre-drilled holes and eye sockets .Once they stop(2 - 5 minutes) you can remove and hang. Let completely dry  for a day or 2 and then submerge again. You will see some additional ,very small bubbles(almost like foam) come up. Let dry thoroughly for 3-4 days and now your wood is ready for priming and painting- then finish coating w/ your favorite epoxy.

 

Edited by smallmouthaholic
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4 hours ago, Anglinarcher said:

This got me thinking.  I bet that using a vacuum chamber and wood stabilizer would work very well.  Hmmmm, to bad I don't work with wood that much anymore. 

I thought about a vacuum chamber as well. Then I started wondering if sealing the wood that way would change the buoyancy of the wood by drawing the sealant in so deep and give me inconsistent results. Im probably overthinking it.  

2 hours ago, smallmouthaholic said:

Fellas-read the links I provided. Brushing on is a joke. Complete submersion allows you to watch all the small bubbles come from all the pre-drilled holes and eye sockets .Once they stop(2 - 5 minutes) you can remove and hang. Let completely dry  for a day or 2 and then submerge again. You will see some additional ,very small bubbles(almost like foam) come up. Let dry thoroughly for 3-4 days and now your wood is ready for priming and painting- then finish coating w/ your favorite epoxy.

 

I plan to use this method. The sealant that I am using has a 2 to 4 hour dry time so I hope to be able to seal and prime in the same day. 

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I would give it time from my experience. Something went wrong on some wiooden baits when I started making wooden baits, I take mine time and let each part cure. Sealing over night, paint scheme over night and top coat maybe several days. But when I'm at full speed making baits this doesn't interfere at all, there is to much going on to slow me down, Assembly line type building. This fall I'll start again. 

I've never seen aby air bubbles in this sealer. A slow stir and go in a few minutes. Heck it doesn't separate anyway. No stirring really needed. I keep it mason jars and labeled.

Dale

One more thing if you don't put them on a turner (if dipping),  make sure you turn the baits slowly in the solution. You mentioned Etex, which makes me think you are using a turner. I use KBS and I do this with that. Air pockets can stay in the drill/hanger holes with the hangers in place. This solution will dry pretty quick to touch. Let me know what you think.

Edited by DaleSW
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1 hour ago, DoubleT said:

 

I plan to use this method. The sealant that I am using has a 2 to 4 hour dry time so I hope to be able to seal and prime in the same day. 

A solvent base sealer needs time to dry thoroughly!. If you think they are dry put them in a jar w/a lid. Open in 5-15 minutes and smell. Don't rush a primer and multiple coats of  finish paints after sealing. Anything good takes time.

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2 hours ago, smallmouthaholic said:

A solvent base sealer needs time to dry thoroughly!. If you think they are dry put them in a jar w/a lid. Open in 5-15 minutes and smell. Don't rush a primer and multiple coats of  finish paints after sealing. Anything good takes time.

 

This was my experience, too.  It takes a while for all the solvent to off gas, because the hardener is wicked so far into the wood.  

Don't rush it, or your paint scheme will be ruined by bubbles when you heat dry your paint.

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Well I agree with letting baits totally dry. Just try it DoubleT, give it time to dry. I've been using this product and for over two years. After using it I never thought about anything else. Just do a few and you'll know what I'm telling you. Other than me I have never seen anybody here using it. PM me once you give it a try.

Take care

Edited by DaleSW
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I've also used wood hardner for sealing to allow ballast adjustment in water, but once I fit the ballast I seal again with epoxy. I've found the 1 part wood hardner doesn't really harden the wood much and leaves a kinda tacky, almost uncured feel. I suspect this is because it's designed to be able to be applied to damp rotted wood. The  vacum stabilising method massively effects buoyancy anglingarcher, and you can't really predict where it's likely to happen on the blank ...glider

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This one doesn't feel tacky after full curing Gliders. I wrote about this when I first started. I put a bait underwater under water over night. Gauge the moisture of the lure in different location and found it to be the same as it was before. Y'all should remember my days of a Mad Scientist. Everything did had to be proven.

Either way it doesn't really matter, I'll just keep on keeping on.

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Hi dale, for sure ,if it works it works ! The stuff I use is a different brand name over here, but when I done some research it appears to be much the same product, I could definitely be  wrong though ! It definitely seals out water and it is handily quick  to use and dry. Like mark noticed, when coated with e-tex and heat gun used for busting bubbles, air from inside the blank can force itself out through the hardener causing  a stream  of tiny bubbles in the e-tex occasionally. Like I said, maybe the stuff you're using is different , if it works it works!...glider

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