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gold and silver paint

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out of all the brands out there who make the shiniest gold and silver? something that can be use over acrylic paint only.

for now i have createx and auto-air and aztek  i think aztek seems to be the best out of the 3 but im sure someone know something brighter

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There are lots of really great silver and gold paints,  but............

Most of the best looking gold and silvers are rattle can paints, solvent based, and most of them say in fine print on the back of the can "not for outdoor use", and "clear coat not recommended".  Take their suggestions very seriously.  They will not hold up to water if not cleared and once clear coated they instantly grey the silvers and make the golds a dull brass color.  But, they will coat acrylic paints just fine.  LOL

Of the straight acrylic paints, I think I have used most of them.  I am on my wife's computer and my pictures are on mine, at home, a thousand miles away, so I cannot give you my documentation.  If you take your time, sand with very fine sandpaper between coats, polish well, you can get excellent silvers and golds.  But, "not for outdoor use", and "clear coat not recommended".  Take my suggestions very seriously.  Once cleared,  "they instantly grey the silvers and make the golds a dull brass color."

I have done some gold and silver leafing on some lures.  Cost about a dollar a lure, but the silver and gold is awesome.  So soft you must clear coat, and they do not dull nearly as much, but they still dull some.

Monte likes Createx pearls, and they are not truly silver or gold, but they look more silver and gold once clear coated then the "true" silver and golds, so that might be your best option.

I have tried several of the "liquid or spray on chrome" options and they do the same thing every time.

The problem is not the paints, but the clear coats.  The best clear coats are indeed clear, but there is a physical property of light that is called refraction.  I will let you do a google search on that but in short, light travels differently in air then it does in water then it does in clear coats.  We need a clear coat that allows light to travel the same way air does so we see it as chrome.  Once that lure hits the water, it will then do what other metallic silver or chrome lures do.  Getting a clear coat to have the same refractive property as air is pretty tough.

That is why so many of the old chrome lures actually had metal chrome electroplated on them.  The metallic chrome is tough enough to stand up to many fish, and the same is true of the silver.  The other option is to use a clear coat that is super thin.  Then the problem is getting super thin clear coats that are tough enough.

I saw another company that makes Chrome films and washes and spray recently and they are now claiming they have a "kit" for chrome that is tough enough to touch up your chrome wheels.  It consist of a black primer, a can of their "chrome" spray, and if needed a can of "THEIR" clear.  The cost of their kit was something like $750.  I could not afford to "test" that kit to see if the clear was hard enough, the chrome true, the .............

But technology advances, times change.  After all, not too long ago, you could actually chrome your lure with chrome, but that is not environmentally safe so it has been strongly restricted and even banned in some countries.

Good luck on your search,

Steve

 

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I have used the glitter polishes before.  I agree, it works quite well on jigs, etc.

I had some "chrome" colored fingernail polish that I tried.  It looked great, but when I put any of my clears on it, it greyed.  I tried it without a clear coat, and fish loved it, but it came off quick.

I will try the Hard As Nails if I can find it, but I don't see it as a "production" option.

Funny thing is that I was experimenting with fingernail polishes, especially the UV ones.  BUT, my granddaughter saw them in my "man cave" where I was working and complained to my wife that "grandpa is weird, he has fingernail polish".

My wife tossed them all away that very day.  ROFLOL

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2 hours ago, Anglinarcher said:

But you fish for those toothless bass.  ROFLOL

Yeah, but I used to fish the salt, and your pike and musky look like the barracudas we used to catch.  All teeth and slime, and with retro rockets.

I don't think anything in my boat would stand up to your toothy critters.

 

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58 minutes ago, mark poulson said:

Yeah, but I used to fish the salt, and your pike and musky look like the barracudas we used to catch.  All teeth and slime, and with retro rockets.

I don't think anything in my boat would stand up to your toothy critters.

 

Ya, caught the cudas before.  Seemed all I needed was a section of red or orange tubing on a wire leader.  BUT, those things were about the meanest things I have ever wanted to remove a hook from.  :ph34r:

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11 hours ago, Anglinarcher said:

Ya, caught the cudas before.  Seemed all I needed was a section of red or orange tubing on a wire leader.  BUT, those things were about the meanest things I have ever wanted to remove a hook from.  :ph34r:

Yeah, we used to throw "the iron", big metal jigs, to them, and they would put bite marks in the metal.  One tough customer.  The little ones wiggled like stripers, and the big ones thrashed so hard it was scarey.  Lots of teeth, the only way to handle them back then was with a gaff,  and half the time they shook themselves off.

Edited by mark poulson
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I've been taking things around the house, but before that I was working with some rattle can paints as a base paint, Spaz Stix chrome and Rustoleum silvers, golds and copper foil paint. 

The gold does real well but I can't remember the brand name. Spaz for the money is not worth it IMO for baits, because of the clear. My clear is doing what I want so far, but I haven't completed many baits. I really want to see what the copper foil ends up looking under a pearl purple or whatever.

As far as fingernail polish (clear) I add glitter of certain sizes for jigs.

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On 10/29/2017 at 5:31 PM, Anglinarcher said:

There are lots of really great silver and gold paints,  but............

Most of the best looking gold and silvers are rattle can paints, solvent based, and most of them say in fine print on the back of the can "not for outdoor use", and "clear coat not recommended".  Take their suggestions very seriously.  They will not hold up to water if not cleared and once clear coated they instantly grey the silvers and make the golds a dull brass color.  But, they will coat acrylic paints just fine.  LOL

Of the straight acrylic paints, I think I have used most of them.  I am on my wife's computer and my pictures are on mine, at home, a thousand miles away, so I cannot give you my documentation.  If you take your time, sand with very fine sandpaper between coats, polish well, you can get excellent silvers and golds.  But, "not for outdoor use", and "clear coat not recommended".  Take my suggestions very seriously.  Once cleared,  "they instantly grey the silvers and make the golds a dull brass color."

I have done some gold and silver leafing on some lures.  Cost about a dollar a lure, but the silver and gold is awesome.  So soft you must clear coat, and they do not dull nearly as much, but they still dull some.

Monte likes Createx pearls, and they are not truly silver or gold, but they look more silver and gold once clear coated then the "true" silver and golds, so that might be your best option.

I have tried several of the "liquid or spray on chrome" options and they do the same thing every time.

The problem is not the paints, but the clear coats.  The best clear coats are indeed clear, but there is a physical property of light that is called refraction.  I will let you do a google search on that but in short, light travels differently in air then it does in water then it does in clear coats.  We need a clear coat that allows light to travel the same way air does so we see it as chrome.  Once that lure hits the water, it will then do what other metallic silver or chrome lures do.  Getting a clear coat to have the same refractive property as air is pretty tough.

That is why so many of the old chrome lures actually had metal chrome electroplated on them.  The metallic chrome is tough enough to stand up to many fish, and the same is true of the silver.  The other option is to use a clear coat that is super thin.  Then the problem is getting super thin clear coats that are tough enough.

I saw another company that makes Chrome films and washes and spray recently and they are now claiming they have a "kit" for chrome that is tough enough to touch up your chrome wheels.  It consist of a black primer, a can of their "chrome" spray, and if needed a can of "THEIR" clear.  The cost of their kit was something like $750.  I could not afford to "test" that kit to see if the clear was hard enough, the chrome true, the .............

But technology advances, times change.  After all, not too long ago, you could actually chrome your lure with chrome, but that is not environmentally safe so it has been strongly restricted and even banned in some countries.

Good luck on your search,

Steve

 

My thoughts,

If the clear coat you are applying over gold/silver is solvent based too then that can create problems. If the clear coat solvates the underlying paint the particles of pigment can be lifted and reoriented. The best metal looking paints usually have their pigment particles "leaf"; meaning they layflat with the largest reflective surfaces all facing one direction. If that orientation is altered they get dull in a hurry. I wonder if a water based urethane; which shouldnt disturb the underlying paint, could act as a barrier to protect that metallic coat when you finally top it with 2-part Urethane, Solvent thinned Epoxy or something similar which will give the final toughness you seek.

And i do agree the smoother the substrate the shinier your metallic coat will be.

 

 

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Only problem is that, for example, AlumiUV and Solarez also grey and they are not solvent based and cure using UV light.  Both are clear, AlumiUV being much better (no wax haze), but they still grey the silver coats.

I do agree though that "The best metal looking paints usually have their pigment particles "leaf"; meaning they lay flat with the largest reflective surfaces all facing one direction. If that orientation is altered they get dull in a hurry."

I have tried the water based clears first and had not improvement.  But, perhaps if we keep this thread alive long enough someone can come up with something.

There must be a way.

 

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On 10/28/2017 at 10:10 AM, ddl said:

out of all the brands out there who make the shiniest gold and silver? something that can be use over acrylic paint only.

for now i have createx and auto-air and aztek  i think aztek seems to be the best out of the 3 but im sure someone know something brighter

I have never found any paint that I was happy with the shine of the paint. However I have found the gold and silver metallic foils from a couple sources,    

https://makewoodenlures.com/product/holoscale-mirroscale/  

https://www.binding101.com/metallic-foil-fusing-rolls    

that  produce an excellent mirror like finish and probably what your looking for. You has also get some cool holographic colors as well.

Edited by Fish_N_Fool
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You mean passing a line through a lure eye twice, then tying a Uni-knot?  You mean that old thing I started doing in the early 80's, and taught people along the front range of Colorado to do, before you gave it a name?  You mean that old thing?

I never said I don't like it, just would never call it that.  ROFLOL

It is a good knot, it has its place.  Sure not the only knot I use, but it has its place.

 

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1 hour ago, Anglinarcher said:

You mean passing a line through a lure eye twice, then tying a Uni-knot?  You mean that old thing I started doing in the early 80's, and taught people along the front range of Colorado to do, before you gave it a name?  You mean that old thing?

I never said I don't like it, just would never call it that.  ROFLOL

It is a good knot, it has its place.  Sure not the only knot I use, but it has its place.

 

Don't they call that the Trilene Knot, too?

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