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gold and silver paint

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1 hour ago, mark poulson said:

Show us a pic so we can compare.  I looked high and low at the local Walmarts and chrome seems to be a no-go.  I have to look when my wife is not around; she just doesn't understand.  :ph34r:

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On 12/18/2017 at 11:37 PM, hazmail said:

Sorry I should add these are made with ''metallic leaf'' (Aluminum) as opposed to real gold / silver leaf.

I don't think I could afford to throw it around like the metallic stuff  :lol:.

Pete

 

Same here.  The silver version is my normal one, but gold colored "aluminum leaf" and even the other metallic colors are pretty nice.

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1 hour ago, FishCandy said:

Well, just in case...

https://postimg.org/gallery/h06pbusa/

 

That one worked very well.  I like the result.

You know, for a more natural sheen, I will probably stick to my leaf material, but...

For an extensive flash I see this as a great option for a chrome now.

Edited by Anglinarcher
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I have to agree with you about the leaf. The powder is good for smaller areas. It's very sensitive to surface conditions. I ran an experiment on my own nails. One nail I used a perfect base coat of Solarez, the other nail I left it a little rough. The good base coat turned out a perfect mirror shine. The other had beautiful shine, with the flaws in the base coat showing through the color. No-I do not have pictures, so don't even ask.

 

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My favorite silver is by far Silver Metallic by LifeTone. 
I just purchased House of Kolor's Fine Solar Gold, and I can finally say I found an easy, fast gold. 

I am not a fan of water-based paints, so I stay away from them as much as I can. I don't have time to wait for them to dry. Especially when painting 120-180 baits/day.

I'll upload some pictures soon, as I'm on the computer, and the pictures are not.

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3 hours ago, KevinHanses said:

My favorite silver is by far Silver Metallic by LifeTone. 
I just purchased House of Kolor's Fine Solar Gold, and I can finally say I found an easy, fast gold. 

I am not a fan of water-based paints, so I stay away from them as much as I can. I don't have time to wait for them to dry. Especially when painting 120-180 baits/day.

I'll upload some pictures soon, as I'm on the computer, and the pictures are not.

i know these paints are nicer than water base one,but im just not sure of the needed things for a safety perspective

 

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4 hours ago, FishCandy said:

KevenHanses, I'm confused! I use water based airbrush paints, and they dry just about instantly. None of them are even close to silver or gold leaf, though. That's why I tested out the nail products. 

 



I don't know if you spray multiple coats to get the full potential of your color, but I don't like to if I don't have to. I can spray waterbase light enough to not run/dry fast, but I don't like going back over baits. The quicker I can get them done, the more money I make per hour.

Plus my Badger Renegade Rages or Velocity's don't like spraying Createx. Combine the multple coats, running paint, and difficulty of smoothness when spraying, and that's what led me to buying paint that runs from $14-$20 per 4 oz.

Lifetone and Polytranspar is only slightly more than createx, but HoK is $$$$ 

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I guess this is taking a new turn, but I'm really interested in what you're saying. I use Aztek colors by Badger. I don't think I have any issues as far as the colors reaching full potential-but now I'm curious. Maybe I'm using them to full effect, maybe not. I start off by dipping each lure twice in Bull's Eye 123 primer, and sand flat with 220 grit. It usually takes two coats of Aztek to get a nice, solid background color. The primer is left bare if I want a white belly, so less spraying there. I use a net to get the scale pattern. Metallics and pearls are translucent, so how many coats depends on what I'm trying to do. I may spray a light scale pattern over a dark background, in that case-I'd spray opaque white before the light/translucent color. The bare colors don't really come alive until after the epoxy goes on. I use a home made jig to paint the same pattern ten at a time to cut down on color changes. I make it a point to look around and ask questions when I sell at shows, so far I'm satisfied I have a good process. You never know though, I try to keep the door open. 

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I have never dipped or sanded anything. Well, can't say I haven't ever sanded anything. I've repainted several lures that had some glitter in the it.  I just spray my baits with LifeTone Pure White, then go to town. I have never had a problem in the three years I've been painting.

Also, I spray LifeTone Gloss Topcoat over everything, before I do my final topcoat. 

I would not recommend spraying solvent based paints unless you have great ventilation. I made a paint booth and hooked up an old sawdust collector to it. I hardly ever smell a thing. (Unless I'm watching tv and don't want to turn on the fan) lol.


As far as gold or silver for a scaling detail, or any type of transparency, I will use polytranspar's shimmering or pearl colors.
If I want a nice, solid gold or silver color in general, I'll use LifeTone Silver Metallic or HoK Solar Gold.

I spray a lot of fluorescent or neon colors (Walleye baits), so that is what I used to use createx for. 

Edited by KevinHanses
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15 hours ago, KevinHanses said:

My favorite silver is by far Silver Metallic by LifeTone. 
I just purchased House of Kolor's Fine Solar Gold, and I can finally say I found an easy, fast gold. 

Funny how one of us likes something and others don't.  Personally, I found neither the LifeTone or the Kolor all that great.  They did do a fair job of giving a natural silver or gold, but for the "POP" that many of us want for Silver or Gold, they just don't do it for me.  And they both dull a bit when I use a clear coat, epoxy, UV, MCR, etc.

And yes, I also hate the solvent issues of the above.

Still, my talents are different than others, and I don't profess to be an artist.  I use a primer color because I have to hide my molded in ballast.  I almost never sand before or between coats, but I start off with a resin bait.  I use a heat gun between coats if necessary, but almost never need to.

Still, I bet Kevin can paint baits faster then I can make them, so ...... I sure would like to see some samples.  :D

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Here's a handful of them. Granted some have createx in them. I just recently switched to HoK

My old style of silver was the fine aluminum powder by nueberg ebel. Pics really don't show the flash.

On the perch baits, I use a gold powder in the bars. 

rapalacustoms.jpg

 

orange silver shad.jpg

 

IMG_20171209_113836935.jpg

 

IMG_20160911_093314855.jpg

FB_IMG_1513898317033.jpg

 

 

 

Edited by KevinHanses
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This site has some more info, like the stuff can be used in an airbrush! 

"This new product allows you to powder coat nontraditional substrates such as wood, plastic, ceramics, foam, etc. Using this product, you can also easily apply graphics and other custom designs or artwork via powder coat in a precise and detailed manner. This product offers ultimate versatility for powder coating as the powder solution can be sprayed on with an airbrush, HVLP gun, or brushed on like a normal liquid paint and then cured like a traditional powder coat leaving a very durable and smooth finish behind."

https://www.powderbuythepound.com/liquid_2_powder_-1_pint.html

 

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For a rattle can silver or gold, Rustoleum 2x coverage silver and gold  work well. It can even be decanted into an airbrush by spraying it through a tube. But I hate the laquer and drying time. 

I started using Wicked metallic gold pearl. I love it. I havent tried the silver yet - but I will.

There are many self adhesive films out there. But you can get mylar wrapping paper (the kind without the paper backing) at Michaels. You can get gold, silver, and holographic clear. You can heat shrink it to some extent to a lure body using a vacuu form and heat gun. Then it can be applied to a lure blank with epoxy. Personally I find the pure metallic shine of the gold and silver to be too flashy. The clear seems more useful to me.

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