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ravenlures

Gorilla Glue verses Eoxy for screw eyes

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First, I never use 5 min. epoxy for anything.  You might notice that my username is Anglin - Archer.  For a lot of years I was super competative as an amature in archery.  We discovered that 5 minute epoxies would get brittle after one year, almost to the day, and yellow.  Very vew in the archery world that are in the know would ever use it because we had so many failures.

The last thing I want is a fish lost due to brittle crumbling 5 minute epoxy.

As for Gorilla Glue, to me that is just a  name.  They produce superglues, expanding urethane glues, and epoxies.  I do use their slower cure epoxy for some things.  The one I use is not "clear and colorless" so it is relegated to screw eyes or eye attachment, but it seems to work just fine.

I also use a 3M gel superglue as well.  I moisten the threads to start the cure, then apply the gel, then insert.

I hope this helps some.

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Thanks Anglinarcher

I do use epoxy 5min. but did not realize that it would get weaker over time. I am just looking for a neater way and a little faster. I never had a problem with the epoxy but just want to try something different.

I will try some of the gel products. I would like to get rid of mixing epoxy, Now one more question how about on lexan lips, I guess I will just go and get some to try.

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I use slow cure epoxy on Lexan lips and hangers, ballast, etc.  By name, U40 Rod Bond paste  epoxy.  Any slow cure epoxy will do but I like paste because it stays where you put it and cures slowly so I have plenty of time to fine tune the lip’s position.  A batch of epoxy will have enough work time (about an hour) to do a large batch of baits.  The only place I use quick cure epoxy is to glue the halves of balsa baits together that are split for thru wiring.  You don’t want it anywhere it will show on the outside of a bait because it turns a dirty brown color, and it’s only water resistant, not waterproof.  Not many glues like to bond well to Lexan.  I sand the Lexan to give it some tooth and cut 2 slots in the rear of the lip to form a more secure “key” for the epoxy.

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Raven, the issue with the gel or any other cyanoacrylic is that they need moisture to cure, or an accelerator.  The Gel seems to work fine, but the thin cyanoacrylic like superglue, does not work for me.

Bob, I agree, Lexan can be a pain, and I always use slow cure epoxy for them.  I take my lips and drill a hole in the part that slips into the slot, fill it with epoxy, as well as coat the lip, then slip it in.  Like you said, something to 

1 hour ago, BobP said:

give it some tooth

 

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I'm a big fan of gorilla glue! You get a good amount for the cost and the bottle punctures the bottle. I normally put some in a small syringe and inject it into my pilot hole with a needle. 

Normally, the needle and syringe will be shot after a few uses, but for what I use it for, it works well.

As far as durability, I haven't had any issues. If you are gluing in wood, it will work very well. With resin, it's ok, but not any worse than other glues. A slightly larger pilot hole in resin (in comparison to the eye screw) tends to hold better.

 

Hope this helps!

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I use a wire to fill the lip slot completely with epoxy paste then push in the clean lip.  The excess epoxy pushes out the back of the slot where it’s easy to wipe off.  If I butter the lip before insertion it tends to get scraped off the lip at the front of the slot and onto the exposed lip, which is harder to clean.  I’ve also read that there is a minimum film thickness for epoxy to form its best bond, so you don’t want the slot too tight.  Using paste epoxy, it really doesn’t matter how loosely the lip fits the slot because the paste doesn’t run like a liquid will. The paste I use cures VERY slowly.  It takes about 5 hours to begin forming a significant bond and 12 hrs before you should handle the bait again.  But I like the stuff.

Experience teaches patience.  Wait for glue and finish to dry/cure or screw it up.  Once screwed, it’s hard to recoup a mistake.

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