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SPLIT RINGS OR SNAPS

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To me,  a good snap is fine for cranking.  I use the LurePartsOnline 40 lb snaps for my bladed jigs, and for open water cranking, where I may change colors several times to see which color is working best at that time.

But snaps grab weeds, so I don't use them when I'm running a square bill through grass and tulles.

I also think they are heavier than a good, small split ring, so I don't use snaps on jerkbaits, either, since I'm usually wanting a specific action and it's easier for me to get the bait adjusted beforehand with a split ring on it, and then just tie the line to it.   Sometimes a slightly larger or smaller split ring can make the difference between slow sink, suspend, and slow rise.

For me, especially in colder water, that's really important.

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The reason wiggle warts used snaps was because they had to rework their molds and it dropped the line tie figure 8 too low in the bill for a split ring.  On some of the older warts you can see a square in the plastic around the line tie figure 8 where they reworked it. Snaps are not as dependable as split ring and not nearly as strong. They also tend to gather moss and grass more than split rings.

Edited by Hughesy
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7 minutes ago, Hughesy said:

The reason wiggle warts used snaps was because they had to rework their molds and it dropped the line tie figure 8 too low in the bill for a split ring.  On some of the older warts you can see a square in the plastic around the line tie figure 8 where they reworked it. Snaps are not as dependable as split ring and not nearly as strong. They also tend to gather moss and grass more than split rings.

Hughesy,

Does that mean moving the point of attachment up and away from the bill makes the bait more stable?

A while back I made some med diving cranks with the line tie in the bill.  I actually made the wire come up through the bill almost a quarter of an inch.  Those cranks were really stable.

 

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Mark,

I'm not sure if moving the line tie up will make the lure more stable. I think it may slightly increase the width of the wobble though. Maybe that's why some of the old wiggle warts were so erratic and unstable because of the line tie being so shallow.

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Moving the line tie towards the bait will give a bait more action. The opposite for moving it toward the end of the lip. I use split rings because, to me, it allows the bait to swing more freely. It has no restrictions like the end of the curve and then hitting the flat sides of a snap. And like Hughsey said, rings are definitely stronger. If there is anyone on this site that knows how wiggle warts were made and why....... it is him. Take it to the bank.

Skeeter

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Being the worlds worst knot tier those paperclip lure connectors looked inviting so I got some in the different sizes.They worked pretty well until while using a Savage Bluegill,I set on a 20" pike and came back with nothing.I thought that the line had a weak spot in it causing the problem and proceeded to resupply and had the same thing happen .This time I had the fish on for while before it came off.When I checked the knot was still tied at the end of the line:it  slid off the clip.Straight retrieve lures didn't seem to be affected but jerk and pause retrieves were.I thought a little  recessed bump or a small stop where the line attaches might stop slippage.I got snagged once and was trying to break 20# braid when it came free.I thought the clip would have failed but was surprised that it was still proper shape.

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I prefer snaps in most cases just for the convenience of being able to change lures quickly. I find it difficult to tie knots in cold weather. I also don't like the possibility of the line slipping into the gap of a split ring where the ring is a single layer. I only use snaps that have a rounded end at the lure line tie so the lure can move freely.  The snaps I use also have a hook bend at the end of the clasping part so it won’t be pulled open. If I am targeting larger species like pike or striper, I will use a snap like the Decoy Egg Snap. I have yet to see one of those fail.

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1 hour ago, JD_mudbug said:

 The snaps I use also have a hook bend at the end of the clasping part so it won’t be pulled open.

The hook bend is the part of the snap that catches on wood and vegetation causing it to open especially if it is hanging on the outside of a fish's mouth. The end of it is usually sharp and if brushed up against wood or strong vegetation can release itself. 

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I use them for pure ease, and like Mark stated, in the summer. When it's cold I prefer to tie directly to my baits. Mainly because I'm using a jerkbait or something with specific action I must control. Gliders and such tend to cast for crap with a large snap, get all tangled and such. I guess it just depends on the situation. I have had one fail once or twice. Very rarely. Just like checking a knot, hook, or split ring, check your snaps. 

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