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Epoxy Primers

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I confess confusion on “epoxy” primers.  Seems to me that epoxy always requires a resin and a hardener in chemical reaction.  So if a guy dips a bait in such a primer, how long is the pot before it becomes useless?  I see epoxy primers offered for sale and they usually are sold as two part sets.  I also see aerosol “epoxy primers”.  I’m wondering if that is a real thing or just marketing BS.  

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Bob, I agree there. I see it as a two part, and a lot are for marine use.  I know when I used to paint the bottoms of boats we had to do an epoxy primer on it called Interlux. Im not sure if it is the same principal since I have seen it as an automotive thing too with the two part.

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1 hour ago, BobP said:

I confess confusion on “epoxy” primers.  Seems to me that epoxy always requires a resin and a hardener in chemical reaction.  So if a guy dips a bait in such a primer, how long is the pot before it becomes useless?  I see epoxy primers offered for sale and they usually are sold as two part sets.  I also see aerosol “epoxy primers”.  I’m wondering if that is a real thing or just marketing BS.  

I do know that there is an air catalyzed epoxy paint spray painted onto walls.  I have used it a couple of times on Government jobs in Cafeterias.  It is pretty new, pretty good, but tough to work with.  

I wonder if this is the same stuff?  When it was sprayed onto the wall, you had about 30 minutes to full cure.

Edited by Anglinarcher
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Wood will move.  The bigger the piece of wood, the greater the movement.

For small (4" max) wood baits, I use either Rustoleum X2 Primer, or, for balsa baits, runny super glue.

For larger wood baits I use a decoupage epoxy, like Etex, that will expand and contract with the wood.

Wood movement was one of the reasons I switched to PVC.

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What about the various wood "hardeners", now the 2 parters are likely epoxy. But supposedly Minwax has a brush on, though I have never seen it on the shelf.  I mostly just use e-tex, I have been threatening to tint it white to skip the under coat stage. 

As I understand it the salt water guys just use thinned spar varnish on their big turned lures.

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9 hours ago, DingerBaits said:

So what im thinking is just sealing it then painting it.  Any tips on sealing Cedar? I was thinking just using poly on it. 

envirotex is thebest sealer on softwoods as cedar.it ges into the pores and then holds primers and paint very well.

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One of the things I tried when I was trying to seal my wood baits was Minwax Wood Hardener.  The painters on our residential jobsites used it to harden rotten wood so they could bondo and paint it.

I tried soaking my baits in Minwax Wood Hardener (http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/maintenance-repair/minwax-high-performance-wood-hardener) but it took forever for them to stop bubbling (off gassing).  I think it penetrated so deeply that the solvents had a tough time getting back out.

I think that was a mistake, in hindsight, and it might have worked if I'd used it differently.

If I were going to try it again, I'd probably just brush it on, or dip it and let it hang.  Soaking it is overkill.

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My usual e-tex procedure is to fist mix a thinned batch 1 part resin, 1 part hardener and one part denatured (mix the resin and hardener first let it cook a min or 2 then thin). Give a light coat and put on the spinner. Check the baits every 15 min for and wet any areas that have dried out any end grain will tend to absorb more resin.  After the first hour mix a second batch of e-tex but not thinned. Apply to the baits and spin like normal.

 

When I first started I would do 2 coats of e-tex , apply, spin, sand, apply, spin ,sand and even if I am johny on the spot that was a 2 day turn around. I found that the newer procedure gives the nice base surface basically in one shot with out getting too heavy.

 

Lots of guys swear by warming baits before applying the e-tex, I have not tried it yet but I do think the theory is sound.

 

What kind of baits are out making, Wisconsin and ceder makes me guess muskie.

 

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Don't listen to woodieb8 dinger, your not doomed getting into making wood musky /pike lures. Its an easy and relaxing hobby ,and think of the thousands of pounds you could save. Nor does it require 70 hours a week, 40-50 hours per week is fine to start with for first year or two !

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On 1/12/2018 at 7:35 PM, woodieb8 said:

turn back or your doomed. once you start its all over. theres no point of return..lol..my hobby turned into 70 hours a week.

Woodie, I already have my full time job and my business (Dinger Custom Baits). I dont think I have even 70 hours to spare. Some one should have told the earth to slow down rotation so the days are longer!

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4 hours ago, gliders said:

Don't listen to woodieb8 dinger, your not doomed getting into making wood musky /pike lures. Its an easy and relaxing hobby ,and think of the thousands of pounds you could save. Nor does it require 70 hours a week, 40-50 hours per week is fine to start with for first year or two !

I don't know about saving pounds, but I know it would save me USD :P I already do this as a Half Living, so... Maybe this will make it full time!!!! 

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