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tarponchaser305

Lure Maker Wanted

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Hello,

 

I attempted to build a few lures that were previously in production.  The end result was alot of wasted time and money.  

 

Given my busy schedule and growing family I would be willing to pay someone to work with me to build a lure.  I have the originals so it should not be too hard.  

 

I look forward to any help

 

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Tarponchaser305 is looking to have a discontinued lure re-made.  I believe he is looking for the Rapala Twitchin Rap. 

If so, they are 3 1/8" long but they came in two different weights (3/8 and 7/16).

IF I am right, then the version I found doing a search are the following:

 

version 1.jpg

Note that this is not the X-Rap version but the original Balsa version.

I did find the following, and it is not available from Basspro/Cabela's.

https://www.basspro.com/shop/en/rapala-twitchin-rap-balsa-wood-lure-model-twr08

Edited by Anglinarcher
clarification
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Yes, a lot like it, but I THINK the spybait is heavier so it sinks more.  I'm going to tackle the lure for Tarponchaser so I will match existing weight.  It should be a simple lure to make but getting the right resin for Tarpon will mean I need to stay with the stronger versions.

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The original twitchin rap (BALSA) was lights out on inshore saltwater species, it basically justs sits on the surface with slightly tail down which makes it walk the dog, the size was deadly  on snook, trout ,tarpon and redfish, obviously it wasn't too durable being that toothy critters loved it .

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That is going to be the hardest part about duplicating the lure with resin.  I can do it, but I cannot test it in salt water.  Our Great Salt Lake is 7 times saltier than the ocean.  Rumor has it you can walk on top of it (ROFLOL), so nothing floats tail down.  

I have my ways of duplicating the weight distribution and I am pretty sure I can get it right, but it would be easier if I could run on down to the coast and test it.  :yes:

If I can get Alumifoam to work (will know once I verify the lure density), then no toothy critter has yet to destroy one.  Larry Dahlberg use to use them on his TV show and Tiger Fish, Golden Dorado, Wolf Fish, all failed to destroy them.  Some did leave teeth in them though.  HEHE:o

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I could test it. The rapala bait actually sank slowly and you would twitch it/short jerk and it would hang at that depth for a second or two. Speckled trout killer. I would love to have blanks like that. As it is discontinued 

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On 2/12/2018 at 12:44 PM, Anglinarcher said:

That is going to be the hardest part about duplicating the lure with resin.  I can do it, but I cannot test it in salt water.  Our Great Salt Lake is 7 times saltier than the ocean.  Rumor has it you can walk on top of it (ROFLOL), so nothing floats tail down.  

I have my ways of duplicating the weight distribution and I am pretty sure I can get it right, but it would be easier if I could run on down to the coast and test it.  :yes:

If I can get Alumifoam to work (will know once I verify the lure density), then no toothy critter has yet to destroy one.  Larry Dahlberg use to use them on his TV show and Tiger Fish, Golden Dorado, Wolf Fish, all failed to destroy them.  Some did leave teeth in them though.  HEHE:o

I found this site that might help:

https://sciencing.com/make-sea-water-home-6368912.html

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Mark 

thank you so much for the insight on this.   As a beginner I have so much to learn. I really hadn’t thought too much about brackish water versus freshwater. I’m on the inside of the Outer Banks so we get quite a wide range of salinity levels. I know that Bait is a great speckled trout bait I’d like to duplicate that body style, or perhaps somewhere between a 17 and that body style.

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As I said, I’m a double amputee - left arm left leg- Carving may be out of my success range LOL! However, I’m hoping that I can take and make a mold perhaps.

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I've made masters with Sculpey Clay, fired them hard, and then poured silicone around them to make molds.  It is something you could do with just one hand.

 

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Mark, you are on point!! I just saw a video on a product that was a simple mix that created a silicone mold around an old Lure! It definitely looks like something I could do!

You have already helped me so much

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Happy to help, if I can.  Everything I know about lure making I learned here on TU, from generous members who shared wotj me, so I think sharing that knowledge with others is the least I can do.

 

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49 minutes ago, Junkhead said:

Mark, you are on point!! I just saw a video on a product that was a simple mix that created a silicone mold around an old Lure! It definitely looks like something I could do!

You have already helped me so much

Have you found the LEGO method for making silicon molds yet? I find this method works best for me

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16 hours ago, Hillbilly voodoo said:

Have you found the LEGO method for making silicon molds yet? I find this method works best for me

Do you have to glue the legos down to a base before you pour the silicone?

 

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I build 2 piece molds so I pour half the mold at a time no glueing 

1) build half your LEGO and fill it level with clay. Make it nice and smooth 

2) sink your master halfway into the clay and make sure the clay is tight to the master. Take a pen or anything thing really and make some depressions in the clay. These become pegs to line up the mold

3) build the rest of the box spray with release agent. Poor silicon level to the top of the LEGO box

4) after it’s cured take the LEGO of the clay side and remove all the clay. Do a good job  cleaning it up

5) rebuild your LEGO box. Be very liberal with release agent and pour the other side

6) Once cured remove all the LEGO and separate two mold pieces. You may need to gently use a razor or scalpel to start the separation 

7) cut a pour hole 

That is the LEGO method to make silicon molds. The nice part you can reuse the LEGO and clay to make your next moulds 

It can be found on YouTube but if you have ?s I can answer too

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1 hour ago, fishordie79 said:

@mark poulson You do not. Just build the mold box and pour in my experience. 

This would not work with out the clay I use to prevent it from pouring out

I use smooth on mold max 30 and it’s too runny. Alumilite high strength 2 is a little thicker but would still spill out

maybe if you use a thicker silicon but I only have experience with the 2 brands I mentioned 

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6 hours ago, mark poulson said:

Do you have to glue the legos down to a base before you pour the silicone?

 

I never have glued the legos down.  The clay essentially works as the glue and keeps the mold in place.   Pretty much follow the same process as above but typically mold in my sprue and vents,

 

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