What to use to hold big glide baits or any jointed hard swimbait for painting and holding after epoxy?

[Kreate]

I have a hard time finding something to hold big glide baits or any jointed hard swimbait when I airbrush them. Also after I apply the epoxy what do you use so it doesn't go inside where it joints.  One more thing.... lol  What do you guys use or recommend? 

[Anglinarcher]

I went to Harbor Freight and found some big old monster Forceps.  They work great.  I also found some very small vise grip type plyiers as well.

Now, the paint or epoxy in the joint is a different problem.  I have my lure turner so it always has the lure level, so I just don't put the epoxy in the joint and it stays out.  Others use a rubber band wrapped around the joint, and that also seems to work well.

 

[mark poulson]

Separate the sections, and coat the insides of the joints with D2T, lapping it 1/4" onto the face of the lure.  That way, you can rotate the lure by hand until the epoxy sets, making sure the epoxy doesn't pool, and then hang the sections to cure.  

Then assemble the lure, hang it between two points on your turner, so that the joints are held open, and coat the faces with your Etex, or whatever epoxy you use.

D2T is thick, so you only need one coat for good protection on the inside of the joints.  You can do two coats on the faces, once the joints are done.

[uncustered]

I use a soldering station that has the adjustable alligator clips for painting and epoxy like Mark said...

[JD_mudbug]

I made a big lure holder out of scrap wood and cheap L brackets. There is a description and picture of it in the post titled 'big lure holder'.

http://www.tackleunderground.com/community/topic/33862-big-lure-holder/?tab=comments#comment-279044

Works well for me on jointed baits too. To cover the joint, I wrap a rubber band or 1/8 inch or  1/4 inch wide painters tape from Grainger.

 

[barrybait]

I made a holder for large baits out of some spare brake tubing I had left over after replacing the brake lines on my boat trailer.  I just squeezed it to be oval instead of round.  Use a small stout "s" bend wire at the line tie.  Then stretch the bait out with another bent wire. Use a rubber band to the wire and wrap around the tubing as many times as you need to to get the right amount of tension then hook back on the wire.  In this case, because the line tie is on the bottom of the after section of the bait it is a little unstable so I stabilize the bait with the middle wires.  At the bottom of the bait on the first section is another hook hanger so bend another wire and stretch a rubber band to the bottom of the tubing.  On the top, I bend one final wire a little longer and reach down in the joint to hook the upper hinge joint, then rubber band to the top.  This perfectly suspends the bait in the  tubing.  I don't have to use a rubber band around the joint, it is held apart and the gap is maintained.  When top coating, I do the joint first using a brush I can push the bait from one side to open the joint up a little on the opposite side, then do the other side of the joint the same way.  Then you have a nice coat in the joint area and it is held suspended, stretched out and the v-shaped joint does not touch anywhere. Just finish coating the rest of the bait.

This should work for most anybody.  This particular bait is an ABT 12 inch Glide Bait that weighs over 10 oz.  Finished 9 and 12 inch baits are laying on the boat deck.  Hope the explanation and photo are understandable.  Saves having to take the bait apart and repair the joint later.  Also easy to hang when you change colors or have to mix more epoxy.

Barry

 

[Kreate]

Thank you all, I have found my solution thanks to you guys. Much appreaciate it, once again thank you.