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TN Angler

Injecting detailed molds

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So I finally got all my plastisol and dye/glitter in. I shot some baits last weekend and had 4 good ones out of about 10. I figured not bad for the first time. I had some incomplete baits as well as my plastisol beginning to harden while I was pulling injector from spruce ( I held pressure after I felt like the mold was full), and a cpl with flashing all around. I am shooting a 2 cavity creature bait that is ribbed with multiple appendages. I know it will take some time and practice, but any tips to shorten the learning curve? For disclosure purposes I shoot in my basement which stays around 57 degrees or so, I use bait junkies medium plastic ( haven’t added any softener yet) and lure works colors.

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It’s a brand new mold that I got for Christmas. I don’t think it’s a mold problem as much as a me issue lol. After reading some posts I think I may have had the temp a lil warm as I was trying to get it around 350 on the injection and now I see a  few people shooting in the 300 range. 

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42 minutes ago, TN Angler said:

Also what kind of pressure should I be putting on my injector? Should I lean on it pretty good or take a slower steady approach?

Slower steady approach.  I apply a little pressure at the end if I am getting bubbles that I want to collapse.  No need to keep it there for a long time, especially so long the sprue starts to harden.

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Sometimes warming the mold helps.... do not make it super hot... but a solid warm.... if your shooting a cold mold - it can cause some issues in those fine detail areas.  And try keeping the injector warm as well.... that has been a huge difference maker for me....  in a cold basement, using a micro and sometimes long periods between shots - my injector would cool off too much between the shots... which cools the plastic fast when you suck it up then gives you incomplete baits....  If you sprue is cooling off around the injector - that's probably part of the issue.  Sometimes if I just shooting a very small amount to test a new mold - I'll suck up plastic in the injector... shoot it right back into the cup - which heats the injector - then nuke the plastic a few more seconds to bring that temp back up - then suck it up and shoot... those aluminum injectors can cool quick and cause issues.... incomplete shots, etc.

   J.

 

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In my experience every mold has it's own personality. I have considered putting the "directions" for shooting a particular mold on the mold itself (laminating first) but I haven't done it yet. I have molds that are very forgiving and others that require me to hold the pressure for 20 seconds etc. Some molds are just fickle. I had to cut vents in my Croaker molds from Do-It to get complete feet. I have a craw mold that will get dents in the claws unless I shoot it fast and hold pressure for dang near 30 seconds. As discussed previously, plastic temp. is also an important factor. Some of my molds shoot better cooler and others are almost impossible to shoot cool (310-320 degrees is what I consider cool).

Oh, and if you change any variables along the way like plastic type, increasing the amount of glitter etc., the whole learning curve starts again!

Not trying to scare you off. Just enjoy the ride!

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