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KingfisherWI

Createx Gloss Top Coat

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It’s water based so I don’t think it would be useful for crankbaits.  Probably designed to be heat set at 325 degrees on T-shirts.  Even the “outdoor” water based clearcoats have proven to have rather poor performance on crankbaits.

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3 hours ago, KingfisherWI said:

I was wondering if anyone uses the Createx Gloss Top-Coat? Is it any good? TIA

Yes, it is excellent, but not for a final clear coat.  When I mask something off, I shoot a createx clear over the spot to seal the mask, then when I peal the mask I get a great clean line.

It is water resistant, but not water proof.  Must be clear coated to protect.

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6 hours ago, BobP said:

It’s water based so I don’t think it would be useful for crankbaits.  Probably designed to be heat set at 325 degrees on T-shirts.  Even the “outdoor” water based clearcoats have proven to have rather poor performance on crankbaits.

 

6 hours ago, Anglinarcher said:

Yes, it is excellent, but not for a final clear coat.  When I mask something off, I shoot a createx clear over the spot to seal the mask, then when I peal the mask I get a great clean line.

It is water resistant, but not water proof.  Must be clear coated to protect.

Okay, what should I use that can be used indoors?

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Some people use Devcon 2 Ton or Etex or some other slow cure epoxy.  I have a lure turner so I can do that and it works well. 

I use AlumiUV, with a fingernail UV cure station I got about 10 years ago on Ebay for about $20.  It is my favorite.

You can use Alumilite Amazing Clear Cast, easily obtained from your local Hobby Lobby, but it also requires a lure turner.

Moisture cures are often used, and I understand that if dipped and hung, the lures come out well.  KBS is a name I hear often.  O have used Dick Nites the same way, and the smell is tolerable.

 

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I love the Createx line of products. That being said, I would never use it as a topcoat. It might be useful as a layering tool - although T base is probably more receptive to additional layers. For newer painters, it might give a nice preview of what the topcoat will look like. A coat after the main paint job might be nice before addition of a fin. Then if you mess up the fin, you can wipe it and try again. 

For an indoor topcoat, any epoxy is fine. E-tex and Devcon 2 ton are popular. Drying time has to be thirty minutes or more to allow for leveling. A lure turner is just about a must -  have, but easy to make with a microwave turntable motor, which turns at just the right speed. 

Edited by Chuck Young
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For indoor use, I’d go with either epoxy like Devcon Two Ton or UV cured polyester like AlumiUV.   The AlumiUV is more expensive but it is very tough and only takes dipping and a few minutes of UV cure to give you a completed bait.  MCU like KBS Diamond Coat is also a very nice topcoat but it does contain solvent that has to be evaporated as it hardens.  I don’t find the fumes objectionable since were talking about fractions of an ounce of finish for a fishing lure but I apply MCU in my garage and let it outgas before taking it inside to moisture cure over several days.

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On 3/8/2018 at 11:54 AM, Anglinarcher said:

Yes, it is excellent, but not for a final clear coat.  When I mask something off, I shoot a createx clear over the spot to seal the mask, then when I peal the mask I get a great clean line.

It is water resistant, but not water proof.  Must be clear coated to protect.

How is the bond between the createx gloss clear and your epoxy seal coats? 

What epoxy are you finishing with? 

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Me personally I didnt mix the two ... or put one on top of the other so to say .... I did not like the finish of the createx  ... when it dried it was not as glossy ... however I did mix createx 4030 with it so I will be trying it alone again soon without the 4030 additive ..... the epoxy I tried came out good i guess i think I put too much tho it is THICK..... it has gloss tho ... more than the createx gloss top coat mixed with the 4030 additive

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