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JakeHankins

Airbrush, Compressor, and Blank Questions

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I've been browsing the forums and trying to find more recent content. I am brand new to airbrushing and would like to start painting my own crankbaits. I am working with a somewhat limited budget and would like your advice on the below items. I'd also like to mention I will be working indoors in an extra empty bedroom so will be using water based colors. I was originally going to buy a kit from amazon for 70 bucks, but from what I'm reading it's not advised to start with the cheapest. I don't want to start myself off behind the 8 ball, so to speak. I apologize in advance for the long post, but would appreciate any input.

1) For the airbrush I've been reading good things regarding Iwata. I found the 40% off from Hobby lobby and have been eyeing the following guns:

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Airbrushes/H-Paasche-Series-Airbrush-Set/p/883

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Airbrushes/Neo-CN-Gravity-Feed-Dual-Action-Airbrush/p/868

https://www.hobbylobby.com/Crafts-Hobbies/Model-Kits/Airbrushes/HP-BCS-Eclipse-Airbrush-Kit/p/847

I've also found the following on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Iwata-Medea-Revolution-Action-Large-Gravity/dp/B000BQS3UW/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1521760558&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=Revolution+Airbrush&psc=1&smid=A2RVOQ2J2VL2TP

 

 

2) For compressor, I'm thinking about the following:

https://www.harborfreight.com/16-hp-58-psi-oilless-airbrush-compressor-60329.html

 

3) Crankbait Blanks - I've been considering Shelt blanks from Amazon, but have also heard good things about dinger baits. Are these decent for painting and fishing?

For a beginner, which I'm guessing needs lots of practice, would you advise going with a cheap blank for practice purposes instead?

https://www.amazon.com/Shelts-Unpainted-Fishing-Shallow-Crankbaits/dp/B019ZEXMEW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1521761283&sr=8-1&keywords=crankbait+blanks

https://www.dingerbaits.com/store/c2/Unpainted_Crankbaits.html

 

4) Is it important to setup a ventilation system for water based paints? I didn't think they were harmful, but wanted to double check from experts.

 

5) This is probably considered a stupid question, but I'm asking anyways..... What exactly is the point of the lure turner/drying rack? Is it to get an even dry after coating?

 

Thank you in advance for any help, it's greatly appreciated.

 

- Jake

Edited by JakeHankins
MIstype :)
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44 minutes ago, JakeHankins said:

1) For the airbrush I've been reading good things regarding Iwata. I found the 40% off from Hobby lobby and have been eyeing the following guns:

Of the three, I suggest the gravity feed Neo CN Gravity-Feed Dual Action Airbrush.  I use a Talon and love it.  I have a bottom suction feed and do not care for it unless I am doing lots of one color painting.

47 minutes ago, JakeHankins said:

That is the one I use.  I have a second one for big jobs where I need to keep the pressure up all the time, but, almost never plug it in.  I use the big one more to fill my vehicle tires.  LOL

55 minutes ago, JakeHankins said:

For a beginner, which I'm guessing needs lots of practice, would you advise going with a cheap blank for practice purposes instead?

Great question, but in the end, it depends on you.  For example, I have tons of lures that have terrible paint jobs, some that are just worn, some that I touched up 30 years ago, some that were just not that good to begin with, but they all catch fish.  Personally, I would rather have a bad paint job in my tackle box that works then a pretty lure that won't work.  I can practice on something else, but if I am ready for lures, I plan on using them, or giving them away to someone that will.

1 hour ago, JakeHankins said:

) Is it important to setup a ventilation system for water based paints? I didn't think they were harmful,

Again, another one that depends on you.  I have never used any ventilation for water based paints, but legally, I won't take the risk of telling you that you don't need one.  In this world, I can sue you because I don't like the color of your eyes, and if I get the right judge and jury, I will win.  Sure, it is not likely to happen, but why risk it.  Get the safety data sheets for the products and determine yourself.  In most cases, they say non-toxic, then even they have 5 pages of disclaimers to keep the lawyers away.

1 hour ago, JakeHankins said:

What exactly is the point of the turn tables?

To play records, also called vinyl.  LOL  I have been doing lures in one capacity or another for 40+ years and that is one I did not even know of.

 

One last thing Jake, welcome to the site.  We need new people, new blood, new ideas.  To see our past discussions, and maybe to check out bait suppliers, hover your mouse over ACTIVITY at the top right of this screen.  On the drop down menu, go to search at the bottom and click on it.  Once you have it up, enters the keywords and hang on.....years of great info.

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4 hours ago, JakeHankins said:

What exactly is the point of the lure turner/drying rack? Is it to get an even dry after coating?

Yes, it is.  When you coat with an epoxy clear coat or some other slow cure clear, then this allows the material to self level and it gives a more uniform coat.  If you use a moisture cure, or other material, a short cure material that you can dip, etc., then the lure turner or dryer serves no purpose that I know of.

For example, I have a lure turner that I use for Devcon 2 Ton, and also for Etex.  I don't need it for the AlumiUV because as soon as I coat it, I let it self level, then I zap it with UV so it stays in place and does not sag, etc.

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Whatever you get, you will be hooked.  It's intimidating, but it is a blast!  Don't over think it at first.  I bought the cheapest airbrush I could find from princess auto (Canada), 30$ lol.  I had a shop compressor already.   But, like all the warnings say, it was a bit annoying to use.  Lots and lots of cleaning the parts and clogging.  But it got the job done at the time.  Also, I would recommend buying some sort of premixed ready to airbrush paints when you start.  Just get a couple and start painting.  From the sounds of it, mixing and thinning out airbrush paint is a pain until you get use to it, eliminate that as a problem right off the bat.    I use the testors airbrush paint from michaels, it does the job.  

Also, stencils will be your friend!  I use everything from just  a piece of paper to a milk jug plastic, to clear plastic.  Use an exacto knife and cut out stripes, fins, fire tiger pattern, craw fish, whatever you can think of.   It will help make your lures look pro! And it's fun.  I'm pretty new to this myself, and I upgraded to a badger patriot airbrush.  It is nice to have a more quality airbrush, but it doesn't mean you can't start cheap and learn.

good luck

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I have been doing a lot research on airbrushes also.  I figure its time to take the next step.  I am going with the Paasche Talon and Raptor, both gravity feed.  I thought about a H Series but ever thing I have read about the Talon's cup size, it should hold plenty for the few lures I do at one time (I am still in the practicing phase).   One of the reasons I am leaning this way is because the needs and a few other parts are interchangeable and reasonably priced.

The plan for the compressor is to use the HF 8 Gal Oil Lube I have know, basically to save a few bucks, advantage capacity.  IFrom what I have read a moisture trap is a must, does any one recommend any other type of filter?

15 hours ago, JakeHankins said:

For a beginner, which I'm guessing needs lots of practice, would you advise going with a cheap blank for practice purposes instead

 

 From what reading I have done in different forums, it was suggested to practice on PVC pipe.  Realizing it doest have the exact profile of a crank bait but its not completely flat either.  Just a thought.  

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6 hours ago, MonteSS said:

I got this well over a year ago and am very happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/Eclipse-Airbrush-Master-Compressor-Cleaning/dp/B001BO4X8Y/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1521800812&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=iwata+hp-cs&psc=1

I doubt HL will give 40% off those larege dollar items.

 

The 40 % coupon is good for any item Hobby Lobby sells

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Yes the hobby lobby and Michael's coupons are good for any one item. I use them for paint, reducer etc. Be careful and search the same brushes online and Amazon. I got all excited about some pricey airbrush at Michales one day and had the 40% coupon plus they had a 20% sale. I got up there and they were closed. I was bummed just to go home and find the same brush online for you guessed it 60% off Michales listed price. You can find much better deals on larger items online.

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Basically any airbrush is capable of painting a crankbait.  It’s mostly a matter of ease of use, build quality, and dependability and for that, you tend to get what you pay for.  I’ve used various brands and models and am currently liking an Iwata Revolution B.  It’s gravity fed, has a .03 mm tip that is right sized for the different viscosity paints I use, the cup size seems perfect for the small amounts of paint needed for a crankbait, and the construction quality is excellent for a moderate cost.  It’s a no frills basic airbrush but is made in Japan.

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I like the Iwata Neo, if there is a Hobby Lobby near you, I would go that route with the 40% off coupon, it was cheaper than I could find it online. I am lucky enough to have one on my way to work so I built my paint collection one at a time by stopping in daily and using the coupon.

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You know what, I was just thinking.  The ability to control pressure is probably more important than any of the compressors or airbrushes we are talking about.

The best airbrush is not going to give you, or more accurately me, the results I want if the pressure is not adjustable.  Just something to think about.  I have a valve and a pressure gage on one of my compressors for when I need the best results.

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Use a pressure regulator / separator (or filter) just after the compressor. Controlling pressure is vital. For some jobs I use 35 psi. For others I use well under 10 psi  (it may not even register on the gauge). 

Out of the brushes you listed, I would go with the Iwata. I personally use a Badger 150 bottom feed (with optional compromise cup). I paid $90 for my brush, compressor and set of opaque paints. Got it from Craigslist. The little bottles are great for often used colors or for specially mixed colors. Just don't put too much in there at a time. Thinned paint will break down eventually. 

As for factory support, no one stands behind their product like the folks at Badger.

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On ‎4‎/‎4‎/‎2018 at 12:47 AM, Chuck Young said:

As for factory support, no one stands behind their product like the folks at Badger.

 

I have read on a few other forums that Badger's Tech Support is second to none, with Paasche in a close second.

A question for those using Iwata brushes.  I have read that there has been issues in the past with replacement parts, most mentioned needles.  Has anyone here run into that problem? 

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I sent my Badger brush in for a PTFE needle seal.  They ask for $12 to cover shipping. They ended up totally rebuilding it. I got a new needle , bearing, head, nozzle, and trigger assy.  While I was at it I requested a few extra parts - extra cup, needle, and main head seals. With all the extra stuff they did, it only cost about $10 more. 

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Iwata needles.  The smaller tipped models are fine tuned at the factory by hand and a proof sheet is included in the box.  If you buy  a replacement needle it will not be professionally tuned and in my experience, it will not work quite as well as the original needle.  But it will work ok.  These are really precision airbrushes and it pays to be careful with the needle and the tiny little paint nozzle that the needle fits into.  The needles are stainless steel but are ductile steel that can be easily bent if dropped or abused.  Treat them with care and you have a great brush.

I can’t remember if my Revolution B .03mm model came with a test sheet, but my HP+ .02 mm model did.

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