bryanmc Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 I know that one of the complaints about these molds is that they need some sort of release agent. I'm wondering if anyone has tried painting them with engine paint like we do with the essential series molds. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flippinstick Mike Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 I have been very successful using KBS diamond hard. I brush it on just enough to completely cover the cavity and have had positive results with many shootings. I have done the same with 3D printed molds and it works well there too. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saugerman Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 Glad to hear that Flippinstick, I have been using the engine paint with mixed results. I have some molds that the paint stays on well, and a couple that paint comes off on the bait. Can't figure out why some will do fine and the other not. I have taken acetone and cleaned the molds that have been leaving the paint on the baits, and will try spraying them again, and see if it happens again. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gus1969 Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 Acetone contains oil. Paint has a 50/50 chance of bonding. Try paint thinner. It works for me.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Arnies Tackle Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 45 minutes ago, Flippinstick Mike said: I have been very successful using KBS diamond hard. I brush it on just enough to completely cover the cavity and have had positive results with many shootings. I have done the same with 3D printed molds and it works well there too. I will have to give the kbs a try. I have ways used west marine 2 part epoxy to smooth fdm 3d printed molds. So happy I got my sla machine, no more post processing. Love it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cami Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 It's true the roughness of stone resin doesn't help to remove the bait from mold. With mold like this one http://baitmold.com/plastic-bait-mold/worms/mold-w122-24-inch-61-mm/ , where body is done by lamellae, whose thickness is around 0,5 mm, I have to use PAM spray and a needle to remove it. I'm wondering how can you brush a paint coating without to clog these thin appendages? Is such kind of paint so thin to leave a micron coating? and is its viscosity so low, to well adhere to walls of mold? I'm really interested to this application. Thank you in advance for your kind explications. Bye. Cami Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Flippinstick Mike Posted March 25, 2018 Report Share Posted March 25, 2018 The consistency of the product is pretty thin and self leveling. I use a small brush for the extremely detailed areas I typically use the end of the bristles & tap straight down instead of brushing, then once I feel I have it coated, I brush from inside out on each side to make sure there are no areas over filled. A little goes a long way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anglinarcher Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 10 hours ago, Gus1969 said: Acetone contains oil. Paint has a 50/50 chance of bonding. Try paint thinner. It works for me.. Finger nail polish remover has oil, but straight Acetone from hardware stores do not. But, that nail polish remover can be a pain. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Young Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 (edited) I have 3 trailer molds & have never had to coat them with anything whatsoever. May be that they aren’t as detailed as some lures are I don’t know. I guess if a person was worried about the baits being shiny he could, but I have never had a problem with mine & they are easily removed too. Mine came from bugmolds.net Edited March 26, 2018 by Les Young Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted March 26, 2018 Report Share Posted March 26, 2018 I spray mine with PAM, and the baits release just fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
one-off baits Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 Worm oil helps mine to come out of these molds. As for the bait dullness, I hit all the baits for a split second with the tiny red torch you can get in the automotive section at Wal-Mart Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Painter1 Posted March 27, 2018 Report Share Posted March 27, 2018 On 3/25/2018 at 1:20 PM, Uncle Arnies Tackle said: So happy I got my sla machine, no more post processing. Love it. What is an SLA machine? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Arnies Tackle Posted March 28, 2018 Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 8 hours ago, Painter1 said: What is an SLA machine? Stereolithography - Another form of 3d printing. Uses light to cure a resin as opposed to FDM (Fused Deposition Method) which is extruding plastic layer by layer through a nozzle. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rcbv Posted March 28, 2018 Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 Removing supports is sometimes a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Les Young Posted March 28, 2018 Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 I will have to say baits aren’t nearly as dull as the essential molds though I guess because the molds aren’t as pourous. I’m happy with them for sure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Uncle Arnies Tackle Posted March 28, 2018 Report Share Posted March 28, 2018 11 hours ago, rcbv said: Removing supports is sometimes a problem. Funny story about that - I was showing my wife the support matrix on one of the prints, while I was carefully snipping it away, she said "on cool can I see" and *RIPPPPPPPPPPPP* tore the whole matrix clean off. That was the last time I ever used snippers to remove the matrix. It does leave tiny areas where it was connected, but haven't had any other issue and just rip it off. Not sure how I would handle it if the support piece was on the detailed side. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cintaskevin Posted March 31, 2018 Report Share Posted March 31, 2018 I’ve tried it and it works for molds that don’t have small appendages. For molds like the Keitech Fat Impact, it doesn’t work since the cavities don’t get covered completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
