rdhammah Posted April 15, 2018 Report Share Posted April 15, 2018 I have been playing around with making injection POP molds. made a Senko mold that came out good. Tried to make a Kaylins curley tail. When I shot it, the bait was mush at certain areas of the body. Basically ruined the mold cuz I couldn't clean all of the plastisol out. I had sprayed DecoArt® Triple Thick Gloss Glaze Spray which is an acrylic material. When I sprayed the mold,, the POP sucked it all up and it looked like I hadn't applied anything. I let it dry and reapplied - same thing. I am thinking that the hot plastic may have melted the acrylic(?). Maybe did not let the POP dry enough? Thoughts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryanmc Posted April 15, 2018 Report Share Posted April 15, 2018 Most use 50 -50 elmers glue and water to seal pop. The stuff you used could well have melted or you possibly didn't use enough, hard to say without being familiar with that product. How long did you let the pop dry before you sprayed it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhammah Posted April 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2018 2 minutes ago, bryanmc said: Most use 50 -50 elmers glue and water to seal pop. The stuff you used could well have melted or you possibly didn't use enough, hard to say without being familiar with that product. How long did you let the pop dry before you sprayed it? 3 days air dried in front of heating vent. thermostat set at 63* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bryanmc Posted April 15, 2018 Report Share Posted April 15, 2018 I usually let mine air dry for a day or two, then bake at 250 for an hour, then seal with the 50 - 50. Never had any issues, but the stuff you used to seal it is the unknown in this. It probably can't take the 300+ degree plastisol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhammah Posted April 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2018 that was my thought too. I'm surprised that elmers glue can withstand they heat. I was thinking 30 minute epoxy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 15, 2018 Report Share Posted April 15, 2018 I think your problem is the acrylic sealer. All the acrylic clears I've tried as sealers for hard baits, from spray clears to concrete sealers, react to the plasticizer in soft plastic and melt. I keep those baits separate from my soft plastics. Find another sealer for your molds. I mix some yellow carpenter's glue into my POP to make it stronger, so it holds details better, and seal my molds with two coats of D2T, thinned with denatured alcohol after they're thoroughly mixed. Last, I spray my POP molds with PAM cooking spray before each pour. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhammah Posted April 15, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 15, 2018 16 minutes ago, mark poulson said: I think your problem is the acrylic sealer. All the acrylic clears I've tried as sealers for hard baits, from spray clears to concrete sealers, react to the plasticizer in soft plastic and melt. I keep those baits separate from my soft plastics. Find another sealer for your molds. I mix some yellow carpenter's glue into my POP to make it stronger, so it holds details better, and seal my molds with two coats of D2T, thinned with denatured alcohol after they're thoroughly mixed. Last, I spray my POP molds with PAM cooking spray before each pour. is this the D2T that you are talking about? http://www.rocatex.com/products-D2T-Readymix-Adhesive.php you mix the carpenters glue directly into the POP before pouring? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 15, 2018 Report Share Posted April 15, 2018 9 hours ago, rdhammah said: is this the D2T that you are talking about? http://www.rocatex.com/products-D2T-Readymix-Adhesive.php you mix the carpenters glue directly into the POP before pouring? No, the D2T I'm talking about is Devcon 30 minute epoxy, better known here as Devcon Two Ton (D2T). I mix the two parts of the epoxy thoroughly, and then add some denatured alcohol to thin it, so the first coat is absorbed by the POP. A second thinned coat completes the sealing of the mold. I add the carpenters glue after I've mixed the POP, and before I pour, so it adds to the POP's strength. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhammah Posted April 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted April 16, 2018 Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 Devcon 5 minute thinned is what I use. I thin to water consistency and do a lot coats. Have cut a mold open and have a few mm penetration. After hundreds of molds haven't found anything better (elmers, modge podge, high engine spray paints, soaking it with PAM, mixing glue in the POP, etc...) in regards to what I am looking for in a home made mold. Now I also switched along time ago from POP to Durham's. Little more pricey but think the molds are a better quality in terms of durability. I think the Devcon or similar functioning epoxy gives the closest results to aluminum in respect to keeping detail and gloss. Now any of it will work to be honest just depends on what you're end result/goal is and how well you have worked out the kinks and learned the tricks. Find what works for you that gives you results that you are satisfied with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhammah Posted April 16, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 16, 2018 that devcon 5 minute is more readily available. what do you thin it with? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted April 17, 2018 Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 On 4/15/2018 at 9:18 PM, rdhammah said: that devcon 5 minute is more readily available. what do you thin it with? I typically have used acetone. It will often call discoloration in epoxies but typically has about the least amount of effect on other physical properties of the epoxy. As mentioned above other solvents can be used. I used denatured alcohol on many of my first molds and used an assortment of organic solvents I am familiar with from work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhammah Posted April 17, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 17, 2018 tried a friend's mod podge. smelled like elmers glue. coated the mold. Let it dry overnight and then shot it. the mod podge peeled blistered and peeled off. Next time, epoxy. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 22 hours ago, rdhammah said: tried a friend's mod podge. smelled like elmers glue. coated the mold. Let it dry overnight and then shot it. the mod podge peeled blistered and peeled off. Next time, epoxy. Modge podge can be bad about that if the mold isn't dried well before use. I have had it peel off after long pouring sessions also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rdhammah Posted April 18, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 11 hours ago, Travis said: maybe the mold wasn't dry enough. I had it in front of the heating vent for 2 days after separating the halves. Modge podge can be bad about that if the mold isn't dried well before use. I have had it peel off after long pouring sessions also. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted April 18, 2018 Report Share Posted April 18, 2018 Thinned epoxy actually penetrates into the POP, give a good mechanical bond for the second coat, and making peeling minimal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ipt Posted April 24, 2018 Report Share Posted April 24, 2018 epoxy is going to give you the best results if you take your time and do it right floor wax from walmart (green bottle) is going to work 2nd best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SlowFISH Posted April 24, 2018 Report Share Posted April 24, 2018 As many have stated... Sealers that have worked for me on POP... Epoxy (thinned) / Elmers / Dick Nites Lurecoat (had to use it before it hardended in can!!) Things that didn't work well... Rustoleum Clear Coat (acrylic) - baits just stick to that stuff and not just POP molds / Epoxy (not thinned) - it sealed but ruined the finish as it cloged all small details. Honestly - Epoxy and Elmers are super easy to find anywhere, cheap and once you find a method to apply you like - work just fine. J. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roger Linnell Posted April 25, 2018 Report Share Posted April 25, 2018 never had a problem with Elmers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
