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Top coat for painted reel seats?

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Hello fellow rod builders. I’ve built 5 rods with no complications, except poor top coat results on my custom painted reel seats. I’ve tried a couple spray can top coats, all advertised as “durable” for outdoor use. I put masking tape on one last night and it peeled the paint and topcoat  off.  Any ideas or suggestions? Here my process. I lightly sand the seat with a scotch bright pad, clean with acetone, let it dry, prime with createx auto air auto borne sealer, allow it to dry to recommendation, paint with createx water based paint, 2-3 coats, allow to dry, then top coat 3x with recommended procedure on the spray can. I’ve noticed there is zero durability, scratches and peels off easily. Cant find any info online? Asked the manufacture of the reel seat and they recommended spar urethane, which I tried and it was the worst I tried.  I would assume automotive top coat, but don’t have a good set up for that . Any one have any experience with this? 

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There is a 2 part aerosol automotive grade top coat that is supposed to work very well but I can't remember the name right now and it is  little pricey...better to have several ready to top coat.  Other than that, the best alternative is Permagloss, but it is "hot" and doesn't like some paints.

***just found the name...Spray Max

Edited by Lilpdriverrat
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No matter what your painting be it a reel seat, or rod blank, you never wipe it down with anything after sanding, or scuffing. You always clean first while you have a slicker surface and remove all contaminants, than scuff/sand and if you must dust off with a soft bristle brush. If you work as mentioned before, you can impregnate contaminants into the work causing fish eyes, or worse

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On 4/19/2018 at 11:17 AM, Lilpdriverrat said:

There is a 2 part aerosol automotive grade top coat that is supposed to work very well but I can't remember the name right now and it is  little pricey...better to have several ready to top coat.  Other than that, the best alternative is Permagloss, but it is "hot" and doesn't like some paints.

***just found the name...Spray Max

If it had more of a 48 hr shelf life I’d try it, not doing enough rods to justify the cost. 

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17 hours ago, Washougal said:

No matter what your painting be it a reel seat, or rod blank, you never wipe it down with anything after sanding, or scuffing. You always clean first while you have a slicker surface and remove all contaminants, than scuff/sand and if you must dust off with a soft bristle brush. If you work as mentioned before, you can impregnate contaminants into the work causing fish eyes, or worse

I miss typed, I cleaned first, then sanded. Didn’t have any reaction type problems. Just zero durability. I tapped off one of my seats while I applied epoxy and it pulled paint and top coat off. 

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what I have done in the past is to use either perma gloss or luma seal ya both are xylene based and have quite an order but dry quickly to touch  after applying that I let it cure fully for at least 24 hours then paint over it with automotive dupli color paint and it isn't a bad finish and any of the paint you choose will eventually scratch or chip . even with photo dipped seats they eventually chip and scratch it isn't the paint as much as it is the plastics used to make the seats .

or you could always tint the perma gloss  or luma seal with marbling powder  and apply it  being xylene based it will eat in to the plastic of the seat the reason I let it cure for so long. 

try it and hope you achieve the look you  want  

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