ddl Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 im looking for something transparent and shinny but the only thing that i can find is junk 5 min. doe's anyone know a brand or a place where i could get something like 10 min or more? 5 min turn yellow and lost his strength way too quick for my taste .im looking for syringe because im just looking for a small quantity . it's to be applied over powder painted spinnerbaits head thanks! i hope you will able to see what i mean,i know my english is not so good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dink Master Posted April 29, 2018 Report Share Posted April 29, 2018 https://www.gessweincanada.com/product-p/811-2652m.htm https://www.amazon.com/Devcon-31345-Ton-Clear-Epoxy/dp/B0006O8QQ0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525044281&sr=8-1&keywords=devcon+30+minute+epoxy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 30, 2018 Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 I think a “10 minute” epoxy would still be a “quick cure” formula with all the bad features of a 5 minute epoxy. What you want is a slow cure 20 or 30 minute epoxy designed for glue/craft applications, or a decoupage/table top epoxy that cures even more slowly. My standard glue epoxy is Devcon Two Ton 30 minute. Among the decoupage epoxies, Envirotex Lite (aka Etex) is the most popular. But my take is that any brand epoxy from either of these two categories should work just fine. Note: these epoxies all require slow rotation after application to prevent sags and drips until the epoxy is cured hard enough to stay put, 45-60 min for glue epoxies, 2-3 hours for decoupage varieties. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddl Posted April 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 thanks guys,even if i have never play with devcon it was also my choice.so with what you just said i'l go with it.i already have etex but curing time is too long for what i want to do.speaking of equal measurement , i think 2 tone is more forgiving than etex.at least from what ive read Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted April 30, 2018 Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 (edited) I’ve used Devcon for Many years. Yes, it may be slightly more forgiving of volume measurement than some others but if you want the best hardness, most clarity, slowest yellowing, and fewest epoxy disasters, why not use syringes to measure it? There are lots of ways to screw up a finish and after all the steps involved in getting to the topcoat stage, it’s particularly galling to screw that up and ruin a bunch of baits. to be honest, epoxy is not my first choice for topcoating metal baits. I prefer moisture cured urethane like KBS or Dick Nite. Edited April 30, 2018 by BobP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddl Posted April 30, 2018 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2018 i have 2 giant glass syringe that i have never use. is that easy to clean after it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddl Posted May 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 hey bob is that the thing you talking about ? https://www.amazon.ca/KBS-Coatings-8304-DiamondFinish-Clear/dp/B00DMIE20Q by chance we have our bob,all the forum need a bob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JimP Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 About your syringe, make sure you get the ones "without" the black rubber gasket attached to the plunger. They are probably lubed with a silicone lube and will transmit into the epoxy and cause fish eye problems. The rod maker catalogs have the gasket free syringes that are color coded. Always use one color for resin and another for hardener and there is no need to clean up after use. Just pull the plunger back and store outlet side up in a paper cup. Or try putting a tube into a nozzle lid, something like in this photo. Just snug fit the tube into the nozzle and cut to length to fit the bottle. The syringe is kept in the position shown. Withdraw the amount of each component needed then replace back into the tube for storage. These two bottles and syringes have been in use for months without ever being cleaned. CAUTIONARY NOTE: The bottles need to be vented with a pin hole in the bottle itself or with loosely fitted caps. If not an increase in room temperature will cause the liquid to be expelled from the tube and make a sticky mess. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 Yeah, that’s the stuff KBS Diamond Coat. It’s also sold by online auto supply outlets. Re: syringes. I use epoxy syringes sold by rod builder online stores like Mudhole. They don’t need to be big ones. After you squirt the hardener/resin out, just draw the plunger part way back into the tube. That will prevent it from sticking. Sometimes I have to clean out the tip of the resin syringe with a wire to remove crystallized resin. Other than that, the syringes last indefinitely since you aren't mixing the epoxy inside the syringe, just using it to measure and squirt each component. I don’t know whether you need special epoxy syringes. It doesn't seem to me that there would be much chance of silicone contamination with any syringe, but guess it doesn’t hurt to be sure. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddl Posted May 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 mine are all glass.super nice one,im really impress for something made in china. here is the link https://www.ebay.com/itm/Glass-Syringe-Standard-Diameter-Caliber-Injector-Lab-Sampler-1ml-To-100ml-/252515112633?var=&hash=item3acb12d6b9 thanks to both of you Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 Those glass syringes look great. But you should be able to get Devcon 30 minute epoxy in the dual syringe, small quantity package. It will work great for you. If it is too thick for your taste, dilute it with a drop or two of denatured alcohol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 As far as cleanup of those pretty syringes - denatured alcohol can be used to clean those also. Although, for a pretty long period of time, you can use two separate syringes ( one for epoxy and one for resin) and just cap them with something so they don't dry up. As long as you keep the two separate and air tight, you should be fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tuna Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 I have now finished 300 baits with just 2 1/2oz of each part of Devcon 2-ton epoxy. Included in this number are 30+ spooks, sammy's and WP's. I use 2 oz. plastic cups. Place a cup on a digital postal scale and set the tare. Then weigh out 145g of hardener and 155g resin. Mix the epoxy for 30-40 seconds, then add 4ml of 91% isopropyl alcohol. Mix another 30 seconds. For application I wear a 5 mil latex glove from Harbor Freight using my index finger only. I have a small craft paint brush to hit tight spots gripping with my other fingers. Using this mix I can finish do 8-10 baits in 10 minutes depending on size. The isopropyl extends the work time also by 4-5 minutes. All baits go on a rotisserie for 30-40 minutes, then get hung to complete curing. I achieve a fairly thin coating so the blank's scales and gill plates show nicely. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddl Posted May 1, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 (edited) why most company like envirotex said to not weight epoxy? Edited May 1, 2018 by ddl Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 Weighing can be OK if you differ the weights measured so you end up with the same volume of each part, as Tuna does. For me, it's just easier to use syringes "suck it up and shoot it in". I am usually coating 2-3 baits at a time and using 1 cc each of resin and hardener for each bait. I tend to apply a fairly thick coating to my wood baits and I do it fairly quickly. I use MCU on plastic baits for a more "factory look". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark poulson Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 I used to use these syringes for control line airplane fueling. Maybe they'd work. https://www.amazon.com/Syringes-Plastic-Reusable-Syringe-Scientific/dp/B01GIU6716 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted May 1, 2018 Report Share Posted May 1, 2018 Looks like more than a few cc’s, which is all I ever use. However, you do like a syringe with a cap to keep the leftover stuff liquid in the syringe. Maybe a big syringe with fine enough gradations would be good - just suck up a whole bottle of epoxy and dispense it all that way. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted May 2, 2018 Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 On 5/1/2018 at 9:46 AM, BobP said: I use MCU on plastic baits for a more "factory look". By factory coat, I assume you mean a thin coat that you can feel the scale texture through. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted May 2, 2018 Report Share Posted May 2, 2018 On 5/1/2018 at 9:46 AM, BobP said: Weighing can be OK if you differ the weights measured so you end up with the same volume of each part, as Tuna does. How much of a difference in weight can there be? When you receive the product, both containers are labeled 4.25 oz and appear to be identical in volume. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted May 3, 2018 Report Share Posted May 3, 2018 (edited) If you read Tuna’s post you’ll see the hardener is heavier than the resin so he weighs out less of it to end up with equal volumes. The difference may not be a lot but if you are trying to get the perfect mix you need to correct the weights to end up with equal volumes. I prefer to just measure the volumes out with syringes to avoid hurting my tiny brain. MCU yields a thin very clear tough topcoat that to me looks and acts like a good factory finish. I don’t know about KBS but Dick Nite S81 MCU seems to soak through the acrylic paint and bonds with the plastic of the lure, which makes the finish very durable. Edited May 3, 2018 by BobP 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ddl Posted May 3, 2018 Author Report Share Posted May 3, 2018 Quote yeah ive got good review about dik nite product but they are not available up here in canada.i think i'll also stick to syringe, so the measurement will be more precise .and etex have to be well measured .balance almost always has a plus minus margin of error ,but 2 tone is supposed to be more forgiving than etex Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BobP Posted May 4, 2018 Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 ETEX is designed for coating table tops and for decoupage where the coating is pored on in a thick coating. It contains a solvent to help expel bubbles. But on lures, the solvent will make it fish eye more easily if there’s oil contamination under a thin coating. We’ve just adapted it for lures. Same thing with glue epoxies like Devcon, we adapted it from its design purpose as a glue. It goes on thicker so there's less trouble with fish eyes, but it may have a tendency to yellow faster than ETEX. I really don’t get choosing an epoxy based on its purported ability to work even if it’s mismeasured. Why not just make sure you measure it properly? And then make sure you mix it really thoroughly. No problems then! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Travis Posted May 4, 2018 Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 Just now, BobP said: Why not just make sure you measure it properly? And then make sure you mix it really thoroughly. No problems then! Bob surely it couldn't be that simple. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted May 4, 2018 Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 Measure it with a micrometer. Mark it with a sharpie. Cut it with an axe. Nail it with a sledgehammer. Every stage matters . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chuck Young Posted May 4, 2018 Report Share Posted May 4, 2018 On the difference on weights of the 2 components - If Tuna has the correct weights (and I have no reason to believe that he does not), then the difference between the two is about 6/100ths. I don't think that I can measure that accurately with a syringe, esp since I only do about 1 to 2 cc at a time. One drop of either factor probably exceeds that amount. If you do larger batches of epoxy, it may be more of a factor. A scale then makes a lot of sense. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
