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Liquid Mask Swim Baits / Clear coat

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How are you all not getting paint in or on the metal joints of a jointed swim bait? I was thinking of using a liquid mask, just wanted to see if anyone has any other ideas. I do not want to affect the swimming action with paint.

 

Next question would be - are you painting on your clear coat versus dipping?

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I tightly wrap a rubber band around the joint to prevent paint intrusion on a  bait with a joint that can’t be disassembled before painting or on one that I can’t install the joint mechanism after painting and clearcoating.  The bands also hold the bait rigid while painting it.  But I don’t trust rubber bands to resist dipped clearcoat intrusion.  I brush the clearcoat on.  

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27 minutes ago, BobP said:

I tightly wrap a rubber band around the joint to prevent paint intrusion on a  bait with a joint that can’t be disassembled before painting or on one that I can’t install the joint mechanism after painting and clearcoating.  The bands also hold the bait rigid while painting it.  But I don’t trust rubber bands to resist dipped clearcoat intrusion.  I brush the clearcoat on.  

 

Hey, thanks for the insight. I suppose I could also look into disassembly.

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Double "V" style joints have the advantage of being able to hang them by the head while coating. All excess is directed away from the joints.  Very little is applied inside the joint. If the wood is well sealed, you do not need much (or any) inside the joints, as there is no wear there.. Rubber bands help. 

If it does get in there, let it fully cure. Cut off what you can with an exacto. Then work the joint, add a little lube, and keep working the joint. It is a pain, but it will come off eventually

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If you ever dip in KBS, dip the bait to the joint and take a brush and go around inside the joint trying to avoid the hinges. I dip tail first and hang from the line tie. I let that cure then dip the head repeating inside the joint with the brush. I took a long section of wire and made a loop on one end that goes around where the tail and body meet. Works perfectly, just stay away from the hinges with the brush. The only hinge bait I’ve painted and done this with is the  ES Flat style glide baits.

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I don't have the experience of a lot of guys here but with that being said:

1. dip whole lure ( I use kbs ) 

2. let drip for a few seconds.

3. use small wire to clear eyelets and then use compressed air to clear joints then hang. ( 50psi or lower )

4.  wait for about 30 seconds to 1 minute then use a q-tip to remove the last of clear coat at bottom of lure.

this method only works with metal looped baits, DO NOT USE THIS METHOD ON ANY OTHER JOINTED BAITS!

this method works great, IMO.

everyone and every bait is different, what works for one person or bait might not work for the next.

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6 hours ago, azsouth said:

I don't have the experience of a lot of guys here but with that being said:

1. dip whole lure ( I use kbs ) 

2. let drip for a few seconds.

3. use small wire to clear eyelets and then use compressed air to clear joints then hang. ( 50psi or lower )

4.  wait for about 30 seconds to 1 minute then use a q-tip to remove the last of clear coat at bottom of lure.

this method only works with metal looped baits, DO NOT USE THIS METHOD ON ANY OTHER JOINTED BAITS!

this method works great, IMO.

everyone and every bait is different, what works for one person or bait might not work for the next.

 

This seems like a good method to me. I might have to give this one a whirl. Thanks

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